I'm replacing the majority of my rear brakes this weekend and my Chilton manual isn't too detailed in its descriptions.

First question - what is the purpose of the self adjusting cable? The passenger side was worn through to one metal strand and promptly snapped, the driver side looks like had lost the lower spring half long ago (worn through around the same place, I'm guessing the cable guide on the shoes).

Second question - if it is really necessary to have the self adjusting cable, what does the spring end (over travel spring?) attach to? The diagrams make it look like it's supposed to attach to the adjuster spring (lower retracting spring). I didn't get a chance to look how the passenger side was set up as the over travel spring fell to the ground as soon as the drum was off.

Third question - I've got an extra set of springs in my kit. I'm pretty sure it's the lower retracting spring (adjuster spring) but I never took one off on either side. Never had any brake issues (other than leaking wheel cylinders - the purpose of the repair). From the looks of it it's just meant to keep tension on the lower half of the shoe assembly. Is it really required? Since I have them anyway I plan on installing them, but just curious if anybody is willing to throw out their two cents on the subject.

 

1: The self ADJ cable adjusts the brake clearance, if needed, when you backup and hit the barakes.

2: YES, Buy a new ADJ cable at the auto parts store, they have them at most parts stores.

3: YES. ALL the parts are needed to have the brakes work properly.

Your truck will stop a lot fast when you get all 4 wheels working together at the same time instead of just the front ones.

I uploaded 2 new albums with the photos I took during my recent rear brake job.

Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - JimsRebel's Album: 1986 F150 rear Brake photos, Left Side.

Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - JimsRebel's Album: 1986 F150 rear Brake photos, Right Side

Jim

 

The shoe with the most lining is on the back side or closest to your rear bumper . Also, while on the subject, make sure your adjusting star does not get swapped from side to side (left to right and right to left) or they loosen your brake shoes instead of tighten them.

 

The cable will pull the flap up that contacts the adjusting star. When it comes down, it turns the star, unscrewing the end. You want to make sure that turning the adjusting star in that direction opens the mechanism.
They are marked L and R, but this insures they are oriented and working properly. Also you want to unscrew the mechanism before hand and apply some high temp grease to the threads and make sure that it turns freely.
While you're at it- take note of the direction the stars turn to open up.You'll need to turn them in that direction through the slot in the backing plate-(or drum- it's been a while and don't remember which) after its all assembled until it just starts to make noise.
Edit: If you look at the 2nd pic in the left side link, you'll see the ends of the springs are slightly open. I always take a pair of pliers or visegrips and close these a bit just for a little extra safety.

 

This doesn't relate to the adjusting cables directly, but here are a few things that will help you get the most out of your brakes:
Pull the dust caps off the wheel cylinders and check for fluid. They should be dry inside. Any fluid- replace them. (and it's best to replace both, even if only one is leaking).
I don't like to see a lot of thread on the adjusters when new shoes are installed. I've done it enough I can look at where they are with the old pads and calcualte how much they will be open with new. You can install the shoes and slide the drums on and off opening the shoes untill they just start contacting the drum. (you should do this anyway because it makes the final adjustment go quicker and easier). Anyway here's the point, these drums will turn to the point that those adjusters are open pretty far. There's a couple of things wrong with this. The thinner drums don't transfer heat as well, and the wheel cylinders have to open much further to apply pressure, adding travel to the brake pedal.
This is just my personal feeling, but I like to replace the drums at that point instead of having them turned. The drums are actually pretty cheap. I would only assemble one side to check this though because there is one more thing to check before the shoes go on for good. Lay the shoes in the drums and see how well they contact the drum surface. They should make contact all the way around. They usually do, but if they dont you can bend them with a hammer to fit perfectly. They will wear to fit, but this adds life to the linings and keeps everything tighter.
I feel the same way about the rotors as far as wear goes. This may seem like a lot of extra effort, and replacing parts that still will work, but this is what it takes to have brakes that work like they did 20+ years ago.
One final thing- always shoot brake clean on the shoes and pads after assembling them. I don't care how careful you think you've been, you'll have contaminated them by the time they are installed.

 

Finished up all the rear brake work and got all the springs in (after much frustration and busted knuckles with vise grips, screwdrivers and that specialized brake spring tool). Got the lower end of the cable hooked up to the adjuster lever and adjusted the brakes per the manual. Everything appears to be in good order now, especially a firmer brake pedal and no more loss of brake fluid (replaced wheel cylinders). Now I just need to figure out how to get all the crap I cleaned off the brakes off my driveway. Three cans of brake cleaner to blow off all the gunk and all of it dripped on the concrete.

 

Pressure washer or just wait for mother nature to wash it for ya!

 

Try Swab.

 

Just the driveway? I always get that sh$it all over me as well........I forgot to tell you about protecting your driveway.... Us Trailer Trash don't have ta worry 'bout that .... we got no driveway...lol... Go with some of those earlier suggestions- I'm on the verge of believing they are for real.....

 

I still have dead grass in my yard from the brake job.

Snow will cover it soon

 

I recently found some concrete cleaner at Wally World, comes in a purple gallon-sized jug
and was pretty cheap ($7?) and it does a fairly decent job. The rain will help wash and the
sun will bleach it if you can wait that long.

 

To anyone else that may read this thread and may be interested, you really do not need the self-adjusting cable and it's related components if something is missing, or you want to take the off. The only thing is, depending on how much you drive your truck, you will have to crawl under it and manually adjust the shoes. I don't drive mine everyday, and find about once a year I will have to adjust them. You can tell when the brake pedal starts getting a little low they need to be adjusted a little bit.

I took the adjusters off the 1980 I used to have, since they kept the shoes too tight and they kept dragging. Whoever had the 89 before me must have had the same problem, since I noticed the self adjusters were taken off before I got it.