New distributor with EXISTING Ignition Control Module?
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New User
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New distributor with EXISTING Ignition Control Module?
I have built an aluminum-headed 351W - RPM intake, off-road carb, roller cam, etc. for my 77 F-150 4x4.
I have a nice street billet vacuum advance distributor from Summit (three wire hookup).
QUESTION - Do I KEEP the ignition control module and hook the new distributor up to the OLD distributor wires? Do I remove the module all together and just hook up the distributor to 'ignition-hot'?
Thanks for any help. I did a search and couldn't find anything on this topic.
I have a nice street billet vacuum advance distributor from Summit (three wire hookup).
QUESTION - Do I KEEP the ignition control module and hook the new distributor up to the OLD distributor wires? Do I remove the module all together and just hook up the distributor to 'ignition-hot'?
Thanks for any help. I did a search and couldn't find anything on this topic.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,052
Likes: 2
From: Alvarado, TX
Is the distributor a stand alone unit? If it is then ditch the module. If its not then ditch the module and run an aftermarket one like an MSD. The factory ones are junk. I run a stand alone with a Crane HI6 box and it works great. Better with the box than without in fact.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 8,261
Likes: 15
From: Big Sky Country
If you do need to run the ignition module, use a genuine Motorcraft blue grommet module, the blue grommet module is the most reliable and the Motorcraft brand is far superior to the imported junk the parts stores sell.
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New User
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Thanks for some input, but I'm still a little confused.
The distributor is a stand-alone "ready to run" distributor. I also have an aftermarket coil. I'll be honest - I'm not REAL familiar with the "extra" wiring going on under the hood of these trucks. What I'm calling the 'ignition control module' is the silver / aluminum box that is approximate 4"x4" by 1" deep (rough dim's) and is mounted on the driver's inner fender.
Since I'm running an aftermarket coil AND an aftermarket 'ready to run' distributor, does this box even need to be there any more? Can I simplify things and remove it? I currently have the distributor hooked up using the three wires that went to the ORIGINAL distributor, which I believe comes from this module.
Thoughts? Can I get rid of this module and rewire the distributor to a more simple ignition hot and ground?
Thanks for your help guys (and gals).
The distributor is a stand-alone "ready to run" distributor. I also have an aftermarket coil. I'll be honest - I'm not REAL familiar with the "extra" wiring going on under the hood of these trucks. What I'm calling the 'ignition control module' is the silver / aluminum box that is approximate 4"x4" by 1" deep (rough dim's) and is mounted on the driver's inner fender.
Since I'm running an aftermarket coil AND an aftermarket 'ready to run' distributor, does this box even need to be there any more? Can I simplify things and remove it? I currently have the distributor hooked up using the three wires that went to the ORIGINAL distributor, which I believe comes from this module.
Thoughts? Can I get rid of this module and rewire the distributor to a more simple ignition hot and ground?
Thanks for your help guys (and gals).
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 8,261
Likes: 15
From: Big Sky Country
You no longer need the ignition module if your distributer is "ready to run".
MSEE
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10,386
Likes: 35
From: Austin, TX
The three wires that went to the original distributor were the trigger for the ignition module, and ground. A "ready to run" distributor will probably need power and a connection to the coil, so the way you've got it set up now won't work. If you post a part number or link to the wiring diagram that came with the distributor we can walk you through it.
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
Likes: 785
From: Simi Valley, CA
1977 F100/150: If the truck was not sold new in CA, it will have the BLUE DuraSpark module.
1U2Z12A199AA (Motorcraft DY893)
1U2Z12A199AA replaced D9VZ12A199A & D6AZ12A199A.
-------------------------------------------------------
The same DuraSpark stator (aka pick-up coil) was used in ALL 1974/79 F100/350's, Bronco's and Econolines. 1974/79 V8 passenger cars except 1979 LTD's with EEC.
D4PZ12A112A (Motorcraft DU1A).
How does one tell if the vehicle was sold new in CA...or not?
Look on the Warranty Plate for the DSO code.
If the code is either 71 or 72 = CA ONLY. If it's any other code, it was not sold new in CA.
1U2Z12A199AA (Motorcraft DY893)
1U2Z12A199AA replaced D9VZ12A199A & D6AZ12A199A.
-------------------------------------------------------
The same DuraSpark stator (aka pick-up coil) was used in ALL 1974/79 F100/350's, Bronco's and Econolines. 1974/79 V8 passenger cars except 1979 LTD's with EEC.
D4PZ12A112A (Motorcraft DU1A).
How does one tell if the vehicle was sold new in CA...or not?
Look on the Warranty Plate for the DSO code.
If the code is either 71 or 72 = CA ONLY. If it's any other code, it was not sold new in CA.
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Elder User
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 519
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From: Missouri
I dont want to jack his thread, but I have the same thing going on, so I'll just post my distributor's part number and if you can help, just PM me.
Accel #: A71201E
All I know is it was with the motor when i baught it, it's vacum adv. and has the three wires coming out of the distrib.
Accel #: A71201E
All I know is it was with the motor when i baught it, it's vacum adv. and has the three wires coming out of the distrib.
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Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
Likes: 785
From: Simi Valley, CA
I dont want to jack his thread, but I have the same thing going on, so I'll just post my distributor's part number and if you can help, just PM me.
Accel #: A71201E
All I know is it was with the motor when i baught it, it's vacum adv. and has the three wires coming out of the distrib.
Accel #: A71201E
All I know is it was with the motor when i baught it, it's vacum adv. and has the three wires coming out of the distrib.
Ford stamped the ID number on the curved section of the base.
The ID number includes either 12127 or 12120. Example: D6TF-12127-AA
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New User
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No worries about jacking the thread. I just need the right answer. Here is a link to the distributor I'm running:
Summit Racing SUM-850312 - Summit Racing Street & Strip® Ready-to-Run Billet Distributors - Overview - SummitRacing.com
Part number is SUM-850312. (Note that there is a link on this web page for the actual distributor wiring instructions - pdf form)
Sounds like from an earlier post that I can completely remove the ignition module from the truck and wire up the distributor with simple ignition hot, coil, and ground. There is a "sidebar" discussion to be had about ballast resistors and such, but I suppose that's a whole 'nuther thread.
I do appreciate everyone's input. I can't find anyone that is educated on this subject - tried asking Summit about it, etc.
Summit Racing SUM-850312 - Summit Racing Street & Strip® Ready-to-Run Billet Distributors - Overview - SummitRacing.com
Part number is SUM-850312. (Note that there is a link on this web page for the actual distributor wiring instructions - pdf form)
Sounds like from an earlier post that I can completely remove the ignition module from the truck and wire up the distributor with simple ignition hot, coil, and ground. There is a "sidebar" discussion to be had about ballast resistors and such, but I suppose that's a whole 'nuther thread.
I do appreciate everyone's input. I can't find anyone that is educated on this subject - tried asking Summit about it, etc.
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 519
Likes: 0
From: Missouri
Hey ol'blue,
I was hoping we could both get our answers, but i have been hard pressed to find anybody that really knows as well. I dug into the .pdf file for mine after i posted yesterday and think i found our answer. you'll need to read your's very carefully because they are different, but it looks like we can bypass the module and wire straight to the coil (and should).
Mine says multiple times that I dont HAVE to have a ignition box, but it helps make a hotter spark. I dont have the money for one right now, so i wont be using one for the time being.
As for the resistor... i'm still stumped.
I was hoping we could both get our answers, but i have been hard pressed to find anybody that really knows as well. I dug into the .pdf file for mine after i posted yesterday and think i found our answer. you'll need to read your's very carefully because they are different, but it looks like we can bypass the module and wire straight to the coil (and should).
Mine says multiple times that I dont HAVE to have a ignition box, but it helps make a hotter spark. I dont have the money for one right now, so i wont be using one for the time being.
As for the resistor... i'm still stumped.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 8,261
Likes: 15
From: Big Sky Country
With an aftermarket coil that can handle 12-14v i'd bypass the resistor wire and run 12v (with key in "RUN") to the coil, with a stock coil keep the resistor wire in place, full battery voltage will eventually burn up a stock coil.
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 519
Likes: 0
From: Missouri
I know number dummy gave a part number to the resistor wire, but which one is it in this mess of wires?
Also, what's a cheap coil that can handle being wired this way since the stock coil cant handle it?
Also, what's a cheap coil that can handle being wired this way since the stock coil cant handle it?
Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,052
Likes: 2
From: Alvarado, TX
I have an aftermarket stand alone in my truck and I've run it with and without my Crane module. It definately runs better with it though its not necessary. I didn't see the link for the wiring instructions but the instructions with the dizzy should show how to wire it up. Many 3 wire setups will have a red, white and green. Red goes to the switched hot lead from the ignition dwitch, white is the ground and green goes to the negative side of the coil. The positive side of the coil also goes to the switched hot lead. If you add an aftermarket box the red and white will stay the same but the green will go to a pickup lead from the box (there are different leads to use on the box depending on the type of pickup in the dizzy) and two leads from the box will go to the coil. The box will also have a full time power source and a switched one. In short you need to eliminate the stock box and you can definately simplify the wiring.
Last edited by Fordworth; Oct 28, 2009 at 03:27 PM. Reason: spelling