Front Disc Removal
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 289
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From: Van Nuys, CA
Front Disc Removal
Another newbie question.
My 56 has a CPP front disc brake kit. I am trying to remove the rotor to get access to the caliper adapter bolts.
I have removed the cotter pin, nut, washer and outer bearing. The rotor is loose and flopping around, but for the life of me I cannot get it off of the spindle.
I called CPP and the guy was quite friendly. He said you have to align the rotor very carefully or the inner bearing will hang up on some lip or something like that. I've been futsing with it for some time now and just cannot get it.
Is there perhaps some special trick? I've never seen how it all goes together so it's a bit new to me.
Here is a pic of where I'm at now:
Any help is appreciated.
Gustave
My 56 has a CPP front disc brake kit. I am trying to remove the rotor to get access to the caliper adapter bolts.
I have removed the cotter pin, nut, washer and outer bearing. The rotor is loose and flopping around, but for the life of me I cannot get it off of the spindle.
I called CPP and the guy was quite friendly. He said you have to align the rotor very carefully or the inner bearing will hang up on some lip or something like that. I've been futsing with it for some time now and just cannot get it.
Is there perhaps some special trick? I've never seen how it all goes together so it's a bit new to me.
Here is a pic of where I'm at now:
Any help is appreciated.
Gustave
Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 2,571
Likes: 22
From: Oxford, Indiana
You've got everything removed that needs to be. Perhaps the inner bearing is stuck to the spindle. Avoid the use of hammers, but short of that, I'd resort to brute force and violence. Find a sturdy spot to get a pry bar between the rotor and the spindle and force it off. The worst thing that can happen is the bearing and seal will stay stuck to the spindle. If that's the case, then you had another issue that need fixed anyway. The inner bearing shold be a light slip fit onto the spindle just like the outer bearing.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2009
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From: Van Nuys, CA
You've got everything removed that needs to be. Perhaps the inner bearing is stuck to the spindle. Avoid the use of hammers, but short of that, I'd resort to brute force and violence. Find a sturdy spot to get a pry bar between the rotor and the spindle and force it off. The worst thing that can happen is the bearing and seal will stay stuck to the spindle. If that's the case, then you had another issue that need fixed anyway. The inner bearing shold be a light slip fit onto the spindle just like the outer bearing.
I suppose it is possible that the inner race of the inner bearing (2) is stuck on the spindle. And I am guessing that the inner bearing seal (1) is pressed into the back of the rotor, essentially capturing the inner bearing. So it might be the seal that is preventing the rotor from coming off, because it gets caught on the bearing, which is in turn stuck on the spindle.
Just guessing here.
But if that were the case then just pulling hard enough should yank the seal out of the rotor, allowing the rotor to come off. Then there is the matter or removing the bearing from the spindle, but the right kind of gear puller should help with that.
But the above theory does not jive at all with what the guy at CPP told me about aligning everything "just right" to get the rotor off.
Gustave
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 658
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From: N.W. Mo.
[quote=Dr G;8067010]
I suppose it is possible that the inner race of the inner bearing (2) is stuck on the spindle. And I am guessing that the inner bearing seal (1) is pressed into the back of the rotor, essentially capturing the inner bearing. So it might be the seal that is preventing the rotor from coming off, because it gets caught on the bearing, which is in turn stuck on the spindle.
Just guessing here.
But if that were the case then just pulling hard enough should yank the seal out of the rotor, allowing the rotor to come off. Then there is the matter or removing the bearing from the spindle, but the right kind of gear puller should help with that.
You have it figured right.
If the bearing is stuck on the spindle the seal will pull out of the hub and allow the hub and rotor to come off.
I suppose it is possible that the inner race of the inner bearing (2) is stuck on the spindle. And I am guessing that the inner bearing seal (1) is pressed into the back of the rotor, essentially capturing the inner bearing. So it might be the seal that is preventing the rotor from coming off, because it gets caught on the bearing, which is in turn stuck on the spindle.
Just guessing here.
But if that were the case then just pulling hard enough should yank the seal out of the rotor, allowing the rotor to come off. Then there is the matter or removing the bearing from the spindle, but the right kind of gear puller should help with that.
You have it figured right.
If the bearing is stuck on the spindle the seal will pull out of the hub and allow the hub and rotor to come off.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2009
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From: Van Nuys, CA
[quote=52 F3;8067036]
Alrighty then. Time to get physical!
Gustave
Gustave
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Senior User
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From: Van Nuys, CA
Update
It was indeed the inner wheel bearing which was stuck on the spindle. The dust seal prevented the rotor from coming off. It only took very mild persuasion with a crow-bar to push the rotor off of the seal and remove it. I needed at least some confidence in what was going on before applying that kind of pressure.
Now to get the bearing off the spindle. Thanks for the help folks.
Gustave
Now to get the bearing off the spindle. Thanks for the help folks.
Gustave
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 658
Likes: 0
From: N.W. Mo.
Good job.
The bearing might not be too tight.
Pry around on the seal evenly from both sides. You aren't going to reuse the seal anyway. Easy on the cage for the rollers if you are reusing the bearing.
Worst case. Cut the cage and rollers off and heat the inner race a little.
The bearing might not be too tight.
Pry around on the seal evenly from both sides. You aren't going to reuse the seal anyway. Easy on the cage for the rollers if you are reusing the bearing.
Worst case. Cut the cage and rollers off and heat the inner race a little.
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Post Fiend
Joined: May 2008
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From: Poway, Ca.
Those usually stick (and eventually weld) themselves to the spindles when they are getting really hot.
I would replace that bearing, race and grease seal once you get it off.
I would replace that bearing, race and grease seal once you get it off.
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2009
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From: Van Nuys, CA
Good job.
The bearing might not be too tight.
Pry around on the seal evenly from both sides. You aren't going to reuse the seal anyway. Easy on the cage for the rollers if you are reusing the bearing.
Worst case. Cut the cage and rollers off and heat the inner race a little.
The bearing might not be too tight.
Pry around on the seal evenly from both sides. You aren't going to reuse the seal anyway. Easy on the cage for the rollers if you are reusing the bearing.
Worst case. Cut the cage and rollers off and heat the inner race a little.
Gustave
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
What kind of issues are you trying to remedy that you needed to take off the rotor? The only thing I see wrong with the caliper bracket mounting bolts is that the instructions show the head of the bolts towards the rotor and the nuts behing the adapter plate. Are they scraping the way they are?
Be sure to clean the bearings of all old grease and repack with a synthetic wheel bearing grease specifically for use with disk brakes. Don't mix grease unless you know for sure what was used originally.
Be sure to clean the bearings of all old grease and repack with a synthetic wheel bearing grease specifically for use with disk brakes. Don't mix grease unless you know for sure what was used originally.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 2,571
Likes: 22
From: Oxford, Indiana
See?!? Ole boy knows what he's talkin' about. Sometimes.
I'm glad you got it off. On a more serious note - Carefully examine the bearing before you try to remove it. Some disk brake kits use an adapter ring that is pressed onto the spindle for the inner bearing to seat on. I suspect that might be the case with your rig and that is what the tech support dude was referring to about things lining up correctly before it would come apart. This would make more sense about putting it together, but that's not the point. You want to be careful that you don't damage the adapter ring if there is one when you remove the bearing or you'll have to find another. Julie is correct that it's not uncommon for the inner bearing race to get hot and weld itself to the spindle if there isn't enough grease or the bearings are set too tight. I'm not thinking that is the case with your because there appears to be plenty of grease. It might be that the adapter ring wasn't machined to a small enough O.D. and it makes the inner bearing a tight fit over it. Just some things to look at and think about as you press forward.
I'm glad you got it off. On a more serious note - Carefully examine the bearing before you try to remove it. Some disk brake kits use an adapter ring that is pressed onto the spindle for the inner bearing to seat on. I suspect that might be the case with your rig and that is what the tech support dude was referring to about things lining up correctly before it would come apart. This would make more sense about putting it together, but that's not the point. You want to be careful that you don't damage the adapter ring if there is one when you remove the bearing or you'll have to find another. Julie is correct that it's not uncommon for the inner bearing race to get hot and weld itself to the spindle if there isn't enough grease or the bearings are set too tight. I'm not thinking that is the case with your because there appears to be plenty of grease. It might be that the adapter ring wasn't machined to a small enough O.D. and it makes the inner bearing a tight fit over it. Just some things to look at and think about as you press forward.
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2009
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From: Van Nuys, CA
In any case, I'm stuck now with a broken cotter pin on the driver's side steering arm nut. Tried to punch it out, no go (that worked fine on the other side). Tried to drill it out and that was going pretty good until the drill bit broke off inside the hole. So I'll be ordering some more bits from McMaster-Carr.
Everything on this truck that can be rusted solid, is rusted solid. The PO had apparently never heard of anti-seize. I suppose Minnesota winters did not help either.
The only good thing is that once I have something apart the first time, it should be much easier to remove in the future.
The grease compatibility I know about from lubing CV joints on the M3. I used Redline synthetic for those. Of course the M3 did not use cotter pins - those are new for me!
Gustave
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Senior User
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From: Van Nuys, CA
And the steering arms for the R&P kit require that I remove the bolts that hold on the caliper adapter brackets. Which were obscured by the rotor.
Gustave
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC