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Old Oct 20, 2009 | 07:46 PM
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lazerf250
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Question Electrical issue

So i cant get my 95 powerstroke to get power to the solenoid on the passenger side fender(it leads to the starter). It always has power into it but the small wire that tells it to open and send power to the starter never gets power. Does anyone know were this wire goes or where it runs to???
 
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Old Oct 20, 2009 | 10:09 PM
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IIRC the wire goes into ignition switch on the steering column. It is the rectangle looking thing under the column U should see it maybe an internal contact burned out.
 
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Old Oct 20, 2009 | 10:33 PM
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Originally Posted by lazerf250
So i cant get my 95 powerstroke to get power to the solenoid on the passenger side fender(it leads to the starter). It always has power into it but the small wire that tells it to open and send power to the starter never gets power. Does anyone know were this wire goes or where it runs to???
With the ignition turned to the on position you can jump the relay to see if the relay is bad. I had to do that when mine went out. I used two screwdrivers to get the truck to start. You just touch the two big terminals together with the screwdrivers. The truck should start otherwise you got a bad wire up under your steering column like he said before me.
 
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Old Oct 20, 2009 | 10:47 PM
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i already jumped it n the relay works and i traced the wire and pulled the column. So your saying it goes into the big white board that bolts to the steering column. If so i already tried another steering column and still nothing worked. Also does it go through the fuse box or no because i cant tell but everything in the fuse box works. What should i do now???
 
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Old Oct 20, 2009 | 10:49 PM
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also wat does iirc stand for
 
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Old Oct 20, 2009 | 11:18 PM
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From: Rio Rancho NM
IIRC = If I remember correctly
 
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Old Oct 21, 2009 | 06:46 AM
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Originally Posted by lazerf250
i already jumped it n the relay works and i traced the wire and pulled the column. So your saying it goes into the big white board that bolts to the steering column. If so i already tried another steering column and still nothing worked. Also does it go through the fuse box or no because i cant tell but everything in the fuse box works. What should i do now???
The base of the starter relay (on the fender) is grounded. The small wire on the relay is power from the ignition switch. Unplug it and using a jumper from the terminal on the relay to the plus side of the battery. The relay should energize and starter should engage. If not the the relay is defective.

Next that wire goes to TRS (transmission range sensor) (P and N), if you have an auto. From there it goes to where the CPP switch would be and is just jumped.

If you have a standard transmission that wire goes to CPP (clutch pedal position) switch.

From there it goes through your ignition (Start) switch.

And finally through a 20 amp fuse, either #9 or #10 in the engine compartment.
 
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Old Oct 21, 2009 | 07:35 AM
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Automatic or manual tranny? Automatics, that wire goes thru the neutral safety switch. Manuals, it goes thru the clutch switch on the pushrod.
 
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Old Oct 21, 2009 | 10:07 AM
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its a 5 speed and i checked the clutch safety switch and it has power going through it and replaced the column already. I can follow the wire until it goes up in the dash.
 
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Old Oct 21, 2009 | 10:09 AM
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does it matter if the clutch isnt bled an actually engaging. the electrical is hooked up but the plunger down below isnt moving???
 
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Old Oct 21, 2009 | 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by lazerf250
its a 5 speed and i checked the clutch safety switch and it has power going through it and replaced the column already. I can follow the wire until it goes up in the dash.
The saftey sw is after the ign sw in the start ckt.
The problem is between the saftey sw to the relay.

Bill
 
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Old Oct 21, 2009 | 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by lazerf250
does it matter if the clutch isnt bled an actually engaging. the electrical is hooked up but the plunger down below isnt moving???
There's your trouble. The pushrod has to move far enough to close the contacts on the switch. As a test, jumper the two terminals closer to the firewall on that switch, just to see if that lets it start.

Now, if the clutch pedal isn't pushing the pushrod properly, that's probably not the hydraulics themselves. That's more likely an issue with the cr@ptastic bushing between that "arm" on the clutch pedal mechanism and the pushrod, or perhaps that "arm" is stripped where it splines onto the cross-shaft, or perhaps the bushings on the cross-shaft are super-duper worn. On older trucks, it was even possible that the firewall would flex so much that the clutch master cylinder would move rather than the pushrod pushing into it. But _supposedly_, that can't happen to the trucks of our vintage. In any event, even if you get the engine started, you've gotta resolve this before you can drive the truck.

(Hey, are you also posting this under a different username on that, er, other site, that, uh, um, rhymes with "flower-smoke-station"? Your issues sound eerily familiar...)
 
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Old Oct 21, 2009 | 08:53 PM
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no i am on pwerstrokenation but same name. When i say the slave doesnt move its because it is not bleed yet. The switch read that it works correctly
 
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Old Oct 21, 2009 | 10:01 PM
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Originally Posted by MADVAN
The saftey sw is after the ign sw in the start ckt.
The problem is between the saftey sw to the relay.

Bill
Possibly a wire is bad in between those 2
 
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Old Oct 21, 2009 | 10:32 PM
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Originally Posted by lazerf250
no i am on pwerstrokenation but same name.
Weird; there's a guy posting there with the same problem, worded almost the same. Oh well; never mind.
When i say the slave doesnt move its because it is not bleed yet. The switch read that it works correctly
Okay, you said "plunger below" and I took that as the pushrod. So the pushrod is moving? Then disregard the above. 'Course, if you've just worked on the hydraulics, are you sure you've got the switch positioned correctly? Again, I'd start by jumpering the switch.
 
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