Best Frame Paint?
Tuned
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 269
Likes: 0
POR 15 is not UV resistant - as said. the sun will hit it and over time, it will turn to a dull finish, but it will still protect just the same.
rust bullet is actually a silver color, unless you get it in black (which is an option). most people buy it thinking its black then open the can and are shocked. rust bullet is UV resistant, just be sure to get it in black if thats what you want.
attached are some some pics of both products. POR15 brushed on the frame, and rust bullet brushed on the engine block. i also sprayed rust bullet on the new radiator support aswell, but as mentioned, clean your gun quick and throughly if spraying either of these paints. i used a cheapo spray gun for this stuff as i didn't want to mess up my good gun.
check out the pics in this link...
http://www.plowsite.com/showthread.php?t=85376
rust bullet is actually a silver color, unless you get it in black (which is an option). most people buy it thinking its black then open the can and are shocked. rust bullet is UV resistant, just be sure to get it in black if thats what you want.
attached are some some pics of both products. POR15 brushed on the frame, and rust bullet brushed on the engine block. i also sprayed rust bullet on the new radiator support aswell, but as mentioned, clean your gun quick and throughly if spraying either of these paints. i used a cheapo spray gun for this stuff as i didn't want to mess up my good gun.
check out the pics in this link...
http://www.plowsite.com/showthread.php?t=85376
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 816
Likes: 2
From: Sandy Hook, CT
Actually, I didn't think you could paint over it...its got such a smooth surface when cured that I wouldn't think it would take paint well. I'm probably wrong though....
Roger
Roger
Tuned
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 489
Likes: 1
Rustbullet can be topcoated, but it has to be within the recoat window in order to get the chemical adhesion...otherwise it has to be scuffed for a topcoat to stick.
One thing to keep in mind is that any of the rust coated paints require that all the flaking rust be removed. This is VERY hard to do unless you remove a lot of items from the frame to wire wheel or sandblast. I wound up using a 2500psi powerwasher for about 3 hours and even then I realized I was facing a losing battle. I did windup using Zerorust (it is flat black too) on mine and it looks great. I don't have the greatest confidence as I couldn't get the recessed areas, but it may prolong it a bit.
If I had to do it over again, I probably would have done the same thing with the powerwasher and used rustoleum....just done this all a lot sooner than now.
One thing to keep in mind is that any of the rust coated paints require that all the flaking rust be removed. This is VERY hard to do unless you remove a lot of items from the frame to wire wheel or sandblast. I wound up using a 2500psi powerwasher for about 3 hours and even then I realized I was facing a losing battle. I did windup using Zerorust (it is flat black too) on mine and it looks great. I don't have the greatest confidence as I couldn't get the recessed areas, but it may prolong it a bit.
If I had to do it over again, I probably would have done the same thing with the powerwasher and used rustoleum....just done this all a lot sooner than now.
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 2,922
Likes: 9
I had the frame on my 53 sandblasted and then brushed on the rustoleum and followed it up with a spray coat to make sure I had coverage in all the hard to reach places. I did a good deal of research prior to painting mine just as you are probably doing with yours. Lots of options out there and some will work equally well. I got good feedback on Rustoleum and I the ease of application and low cost were definitely a plus.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 20,351
Likes: 806
From: Mi'kma'ki
nothing else is POR-15 they say.
who knows.i'l let ya know in a few years if it was worth it lol.
actually just been applied by po before i bought it.looks like some serious heavy duty stuff though i tell ya that.it looks like the under side of the truck has been wrapped in a heavy duty rino bed liner or something.you can tell its way more than just a paint.
any good paint will work,but you need to keep at-and honestly who does?
this is probably the stuff to go with,if you want it to really last and stop all the rust.
looks like it sets ya back a little over $100 a gallon.i suppose if it last forever and keeps the road salt from eating the metal it has got to be worth it.
probably all depends on how old the truck already is,and how long you plan to keep it.
who knows.i'l let ya know in a few years if it was worth it lol.
actually just been applied by po before i bought it.looks like some serious heavy duty stuff though i tell ya that.it looks like the under side of the truck has been wrapped in a heavy duty rino bed liner or something.you can tell its way more than just a paint.
any good paint will work,but you need to keep at-and honestly who does?
this is probably the stuff to go with,if you want it to really last and stop all the rust.
looks like it sets ya back a little over $100 a gallon.i suppose if it last forever and keeps the road salt from eating the metal it has got to be worth it.
probably all depends on how old the truck already is,and how long you plan to keep it.
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 20,351
Likes: 806
From: Mi'kma'ki
i put the Paint Over Rust -15 on chip truck and it held up ok,but the road salt still ate into it and left me doing routine maintenance to it just the same as anything else.
so now with log truck,i just prepped and primed and will be using tractor enamel.the same stuff i used over por-15 (with their primer made to coat it first) on chip truck.
really,the best way would be to sandblast,prime and coat.i don't think anything designed to paint over rust is ever going to be as good as priming,quality painting new or sandblasted old metal.
if you don't blast it,then you'll be like me.just end up coating it every few years with whatever flaked off.i kinda like it anyway though,as it keeps stuff looking clean with a fresh coat every couple years.
so now with log truck,i just prepped and primed and will be using tractor enamel.the same stuff i used over por-15 (with their primer made to coat it first) on chip truck.
really,the best way would be to sandblast,prime and coat.i don't think anything designed to paint over rust is ever going to be as good as priming,quality painting new or sandblasted old metal.
if you don't blast it,then you'll be like me.just end up coating it every few years with whatever flaked off.i kinda like it anyway though,as it keeps stuff looking clean with a fresh coat every couple years.
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 1,726
Likes: 3
I got a friend that did that with his trans am resto subframe. It's sexy as hell but he said he'd never do it again. I'm going to do the rustoleum if I ever Hey around to doing mine. I hate the look of the surface rust all over it and you can see a lot in the back wheel well.
Tuned
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 368
Likes: 0
From: Virginia Beach/Wisconsin
My grandpa and dad both swear by this, and from the looks of all our used trucks I would have to agree. Whenever we would get a used truck they would spend an afternoon hot pressure washing the underside and then the next day, using spray bottles or an old garden sprayer, spray the whole underside of the truck with Marvel Mystery Oil. Then let the truck sit for a couple days over big pieces of cardboard to soak up the drips. They would then drive them for a few days (smoked like hell for the first little bit). After a few days to a couple weeks they would then get cheap undercoating spray bombs and do the underside and frame. Once every year or two they would do it again. The Marvel softens the undercoating again and then do touch-up. Their trucks would still be pretty decent underneath while similar aged trucks would have fenders flopping from the Wisconsin salted roads. The last 94 I sold about 4 yrs ago got that treatment a couple times and the buyer couldn't believe how clean she looked underneath. Works for me anyway.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 1,394
Likes: 5
From: cincinnati ohio
When we built my 97 i wire wheeled my frame, i would not suggest this. It was a pain in the ***, then you have to use chemicals to clean everything, it worked good but i more than likely will have mine back to the bare frame some point in its life to do it how we did the 84.
on my 97, we had the underside and inner bedsides blasted and i coated with por 15 and topcoat and it turned out awesome,
The 84 we stripped then sandblasted it and the cab floor boards and underside. also the same treatment on the core supports of both trucks,
We use por 15 merely off of brads suggestions and what he uses, although we uses por's topcaot instead of what he uses.
por 15 loves sandblasted surfaces. might as well do it if you have it that far tore down.
on my 97, we had the underside and inner bedsides blasted and i coated with por 15 and topcoat and it turned out awesome,
The 84 we stripped then sandblasted it and the cab floor boards and underside. also the same treatment on the core supports of both trucks,
We use por 15 merely off of brads suggestions and what he uses, although we uses por's topcaot instead of what he uses.
por 15 loves sandblasted surfaces. might as well do it if you have it that far tore down.
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 3,533
Likes: 17
From: SW Florida
Nope, got you beat. I just let the sun and rain take care of my frame... then drive down a dirt road. 
Here in the south if I have to do any frame work I just spray flat black paint on it when I'm done. Seems to hold up fine for the weather here.
Here in the south if I have to do any frame work I just spray flat black paint on it when I'm done. Seems to hold up fine for the weather here.