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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

tranny cooler recommendations ?

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Old Oct 18, 2009 | 03:04 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by CharlieLed
It has both...the HD option added the external cooler to handle the heavy towing capacity. It also has an external engine oil cooler.
Thanks. That's what I thought but just wanted to confirm.
 
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Old Oct 19, 2009 | 12:05 AM
  #17  
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i used a plate cooler (not tube and fin) in front of the radiator and plumbed it with bulk tube from the parts store. i used a stainless double clamp and made my own base for the hold downs.





i bought some grommets for the holes now and removed the hose pieces.
 
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Old Oct 19, 2009 | 06:53 AM
  #18  
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That looks nice oldtimer and should last forever.

Has anyone ever use the long universal frame coolers I've seen on streetrods, as the only tranny cooler?
 
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Old Oct 19, 2009 | 08:00 AM
  #19  
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I have no internal radiator cooler on my truck, the two frame-mounted coolers are more than enough for my application.
 
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Old Oct 19, 2009 | 12:48 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Julies Cool F1
Freezing?

..................................

Anyway, The steel lines are EASY to do. So easy even a GIRL could do it. (not a tough love statement, but definately no slack)

..................................
RMF

I guess I missed this yestersday. I think Julie said to get your wife to bend you up some tranny lines. Try that and report back if you can.

Nathan

Not sure if I misinterpretted your post, but I would always run a transmission cooler of some sort on any automatic. Most transmissions will outlast a vehicle if you never overheat them. (Says the guy that dumps my Mustang clutch at 5,000rpms with slicks) Guess this is a good stopping point for my transmission preservation sermon.
 
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Old Oct 19, 2009 | 02:40 PM
  #21  
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This was on my Supercharged 2003 Marauder:

I started with a B&M 28,000 gvw rated unit, keeping the factory coolr in line with it.
Worked well and I pulled the trans out at 78k working excellent.

I went with newer, harder hitting transmission, along with a new motor.
I went with a Tru-Cool 45000gvw in line, but did not get the unit that included the cold weather thermostat.
I added that soon afterwards, as the fluid was too cold!

I recommend the Tru-cool unit now, with the temp control if you're up north.
TRU-COOL MAX LPD47391

They are all over EBay......
 
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Old Oct 19, 2009 | 04:50 PM
  #22  
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My radiator doesn't have a tranny cooler. I thought those inline billet coolers were neat, but didn't think they would do the whole job, especially when towing. So, I made my own.

The brackets are simple sheet metal made in my bench vise with the help of some HF sheet metal forming jaws. The radiators, fans and relays were out of the Summit catalog.

The pictures are of my oil cooler, which is mounted between running board and frame rail under the cab (very hidden) behind the left front wheel. The tranny cooler is identical except the brackets are opposite hand and it is behind the battery box. Both sit at 30 degrees to catch ram air with the help of a flat sheet metal coop. (The running board is removed in the photos).





More info (including part numbers): Ford Truck Enthusiasts User Gallery
 
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Old Oct 19, 2009 | 04:54 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by CharlieLed
The cooling fins on the heat sink style coolers will transfer heat without the aid of forced external airflow. Take a look at the old style steam radiators that used to be in most homes...steam passed through the radiator and heat rose out into the ambient air. This is not to say that forced air across the fins would not improve the heat transfer but let's face it, when will the ambient air temp around this heat sink (even mounted on the inside of the frame) ever reach the ambient fluid temperature in an automobile radiator? Running trans fluid through a 200 degree bath of engine coolant and calling it "cooling" the fluid is just nuts. IMO
Charlie:
Yes the coolers will transfer heat by radiation without air blowing across them, but like your old radiator analogy it will happen very slowly, meanwhile the fluid will pass thru relatively quickly, receiving very little cooling. That's exactly why most homes have turned away from steam radiators (..."used to have"...) for forced air furnaces blowing thru a heat exchanger, much quicker and more efficient. You don't want to wait hours to cool your tranny do you?

At first glance your argument about the radiator being at 200* sounds valid, but in fact the tranny fluid and clutch/band friction materials are designed to work most efficiently at those temps. Running the tranny too cold will damage it as fast as running it too hot. Ever go to a drag race and walk thru the pits? You will see cars using auto transmissions with the rear axle up on jackstands with the rear wheels spinning while they warm up the engine. This is done to also warm up the tranny fluid (as well as the rear axle). Every drive a car with a worn auto tranny that would slip when cold, but then work OK after warming up?
It's not "nuts" to use the radiator, it's deliberately done to keep the tranny in it's operating temp range by heating it up quickly (water to fluid heat transfer is MUCH more efficient as any swimmer knows) and maintaining it there, just as it does with the engine. Think of it as tranny temperature moderation rather than cooling will put you in the right mindset to understand.
 
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Old Oct 19, 2009 | 05:54 PM
  #24  
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Bending lines don't scare me, it's trying to get down in there at the bottom of the rad to connect them. There isn't even room for the slim electric fan in there.

Based upon everyone's input, I'm going to get something like a Derale # 13224 from someone like Jegs and run it cross ways just under the front gravel sheild. The particular model should be almost invisible.

Thanks for everyone's input, even fatfender's.
 
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Old Oct 19, 2009 | 09:14 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by ferguson777
Bending lines don't scare me, it's trying to get down in there at the bottom of the rad to connect them. There isn't even room for the slim electric fan in there.

Based upon everyone's input, I'm going to get something like a Derale # 13224 from someone like Jegs and run it cross ways just under the front gravel sheild. The particular model should be almost invisible.

Thanks for everyone's input, even fatfender's.
Take the radiator out, connect the flex lines to the fittings, reinstall the radiator. The old plumber's trick of doing the difficult connections out in the open before installing the fixture and then make the final connections at a more accessable place. Besides, there should be plenty of room to make the radiator connections from the bottom, why even try to do it from the top? Did you read my last post as to why to use the radiator intercooler? There is no moderation or control with an air to liquid intercooler alone. Don't get lazy now, do it right, you'll be glad later.
My credo: don't fix a problem until you are sure it IS a problem, the wrong "fix" can create a problem where one didn't exist before.
 
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Old Oct 19, 2009 | 09:32 PM
  #26  
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I'm going to move my tranny lines back from external to internal now that we have solved the overheat problem..

I didn't cut the lines,just looped them to the external cooler..

Sam
 
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Old Oct 19, 2009 | 09:51 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by AXracer
My credo: don't fix a problem until you are sure it IS a problem, the wrong "fix" can create a problem where one didn't exist before.
RMFs credo is......

It's almost November and I live in Canada. I willl now retire to my favorite chair for hockey season. See you next spring truck. Stop me when I tell a lie Robert.
 
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Old Oct 19, 2009 | 10:36 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by AXracer
Charlie:
Yes the coolers will transfer heat by radiation without air blowing across them, but like your old radiator analogy it will happen very slowly, meanwhile the fluid will pass thru relatively quickly, receiving very little cooling. That's exactly why most homes have turned away from steam radiators (..."used to have"...) for forced air furnaces blowing thru a heat exchanger, much quicker and more efficient. You don't want to wait hours to cool your tranny do you?

At first glance your argument about the radiator being at 200* sounds valid, but in fact the tranny fluid and clutch/band friction materials are designed to work most efficiently at those temps. Running the tranny too cold will damage it as fast as running it too hot. Ever go to a drag race and walk thru the pits? You will see cars using auto transmissions with the rear axle up on jackstands with the rear wheels spinning while they warm up the engine. This is done to also warm up the tranny fluid (as well as the rear axle). Every drive a car with a worn auto tranny that would slip when cold, but then work OK after warming up?
It's not "nuts" to use the radiator, it's deliberately done to keep the tranny in it's operating temp range by heating it up quickly (water to fluid heat transfer is MUCH more efficient as any swimmer knows) and maintaining it there, just as it does with the engine. Think of it as tranny temperature moderation rather than cooling will put you in the right mindset to understand.
AX,
I don't want to beat a dead horse here but which is more efficient, fluid flowing through a small coil submerged in 200 degree water or fluid flowing through a large finned heat sink surrounded by 75 degree (give or take) air? I don't agree with the speed argument that you have raised. A transmission is designed to operate at an optimal temperature of 175 degrees...I guess if you live in a colder climate then you do need to "heat" the fluid by running it through a hot radiator but here in So Cal cold weather is not a consideration. A worn tranny works better when it's warm because the worn clutches, steels, and pump fins expand when they are warm. You have a lot of holes in your arguments so let's just agree to disagree.
 
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Old Oct 19, 2009 | 10:49 PM
  #29  
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Roberts daily driver is in need of tranny fluid initial warming for sure, but his truck isn't going to see winter use. It's very debatable which is better in his limited summer use.
 
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Old Oct 19, 2009 | 11:49 PM
  #30  
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I guess the real solution here is for the OP to install a manual transmission!
 
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