Im doing a complete rebuild on my 10.25, went to go tighten up the yolk on the pinion but with everything Ive tried I cant get the crush sleeve to crush. Any help will be much appreciated, thanks in advance.

 

What are the steps you are doing to set your drag?
What do you have installed in the diff during this process?

The crush sleeve is a spacer between the bearings and the flange. I don't think it necessarily has to "crush."

Make sure you do a test run setting the drag without the crush sleeve in there, so you have an idea of what is going on also.

 

i have the diff in and i was going to put the yolk and all on so that i can properly set my backlash. i cant get the yolk all the way down though with that crush sleeve in and looking at the old sleeve to the new sleeve it does seem as if it actually crushes.

 

it does some.

When I did my 95' I stuck a screwdriver though one of the unused holes in the companion flange and then turned on the pinion nut.

The reason i say to practice without it the first time is.

Hmm. I gave bad info.
Crush sleeve should go between the 2 bearings.... Yea. that is right. I think, crap i forget.
Anyways. i think you know which order.

but anyways. put it together with the crush sleeve out to make sure the bearing cups are seated all the way.
Tighten, spin, check with tq wrench, tighten spin check with tqwrench.
Just keep repeating that.
You shoudln't need the diff in to set the pinion.
You should be good on your backlash, but be sure to check.
Did you rent the gauge to do it? Not many people have those. I was fortunate when I did mine, guy who helped me was master mechanic/machineist and had all the measuring stuff.

Just make sure if you do new shims also you measure your shims for each side and use the same amount. You shouldn't have to shim it any though. but maybe.

If i remember correctly though. The crush sleeve goes in before the tailshaft bearing, then the seal, then the flange.
but I'm thinking from an 8.8.

Ford 10.25 Full Float Axle Rear Disk Brake and Rebuild .: Articles
Its still loading for me, but it says in the basic info that it takes a LOT to crush the sleeve. 300-600 or something.

 

Adjusting Pinion Pre Load
The pinion pre load is adjusted with a crush sleeve on the Ford 10.25 which requires extreme force to crush (300-600 pounds of force). Tightening the crush sleeve will require some innovative thought on how to hold the pinion from rotating while tightening the nut. We used a long rod which had an eye on one end which was bolted to one of the holes on the yoke used for the ubolts which hold on the ujoints. A large pipe was then placed over this rod and another much longer pipe (4 feet) was placed over the 3/4" drive socket wrench used to tighten the nut. Tighten the nut until light resistance is felt when turning the pinion, its now time to test the pre load. Don't over tighten before testing pre load. You can use the same method to measure pre load (weight hung off rod) as we did with the front axle. Measure pre load and tighten pinion nut as necessary to add more preload, tighten nut in small increments to avoid adding too much pre load, you can't back it off.

There is the info.
You'll probably screw the first one up, so be sure to have 2 if you are worried.

 

It takes A LOT of force to crush the sleeve... we cheated when we did
the gears in my truck and started the crush sleeve in a press, to where it
just barely ballooned out, then installed & followed the normal torque proceedure. Worked great.

 

Just like all the guys are saying-it is hard to crush. get a couple pipes to use as cheaters with a good breaker bar (wouldn't recommend a ratchet for this-I have a 3/4" drive snap-on with 36" handle that I use but do not use a cheapy). I have a piece of 3/8" by 1" flat steel with holes drilled in it that I use to bolt to the companion flange or yoke whichever the case may be. I usually try to wedge the companion flange bar against the springs, ground or whatever so you only have to pull on one bar, than give 'er hell. Stop periodically and wiggle the flange-as soon as the play is gone you are getting close. before checking the preload, spin the pinion a bunch-the more the better-to get everything centered up-I also usually squirt a little 80-90 on the bearings while spinning. Good luck, take your time and dont re-use the pinion nut unless you use loctite on it. be patient and take your time-this is the most important part of the whole diff rebuild.

 

thanks guys ill put all your advice to it tomorrow and ill let yall now how it worked out for me. hopefully this weather can hold off for me.

 

so i hooked a bar to the yolk and have it up against the spring. ive been trying to give it hell with my 36in snap on breaker bar but its not workin all so well. i think it would help alot more if i wasnt laying on the ground. i dont know mabey i just get to aggrivated for things to work out.

 

If I had the truck lifted up on a rack, its no problem at all using the pinion holder tool I got and a ratchet on the nut. I've got some snap on 3/4 inch ratchets with handles going from 18 inches to 6 feet!

On the ground I use my impact. A BIG 3/4 inch bad boy and just hit it in short spurts while holding the pinion with my hand and checking the turning force required after each turn with the impact. This is definitly my preferred way of setting a pinion.

Take the carrier back out while you are messing with the pinion too. I've never done it but I've sure seen a lot of ring gear teeth broken before trying to set the crush sleeve with the ring gear in. 4.10 10 bolt gms WILL break if you try it like this with the ring gear in!

 

i finally went and pulled the entire axle out and im bringing it to my buddys shop tomorrow to use his 3/4. that will get her done.