Excursion Hitch?
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Junior User
Joined: Oct 2006
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Excursion Hitch?
My Excursion has been towing its entire life and as a result the where the pin goes in the receiver has elongated and needs to be repaired. Since this is a difficult fix I assumed it would be easier just to buy & install a new hitch, but I can't seem to find anyone that makes one for the excursion. Why is that? What am I missing?
More Turbo
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 530
Likes: 2
From: LI, NY
The reasoning, which I heard here, is that the hitch is part of the blocker bar system. Modifying that could open up liability issues.
Lawyers force CYA.
It may be possible to build up the hole with weld, then weld a couple of grade 8 washers on the outside to reinforce it.
I'm a backyard guy, not a pro. C-My-A
Lawyers force CYA.
It may be possible to build up the hole with weld, then weld a couple of grade 8 washers on the outside to reinforce it.
I'm a backyard guy, not a pro. C-My-A
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 1,388
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From: Greensboro, NC
Junior User
Joined: Jan 2005
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I don't remember if it was here or at www.myrvtalk.com, but I learned that my pin hole was elongating because of the pin style I was using. Never had a problem, then switched to a locking pin that had the lock on one side and downward bend on the other. It was elongating on the side with the bend. Went back to my straight pin and haven't had a problem since. I'm not saying that is your problem, but one thing to think about.
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2006
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My Excursion has been towing its entire life and as a result the where the pin goes in the receiver has elongated and needs to be repaired. Since this is a difficult fix I assumed it would be easier just to buy & install a new hitch, but I can't seem to find anyone that makes one for the excursion. Why is that? What am I missing?
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,198
Likes: 2
From: Tulsa, OK
Why does the hitch say "Do not weld or drill"?
It is also because of the potential liability from weld embrittlement. The reason the hole is elongating has a lot to do with loading close to the limit anyway.
I agree that it could be possible to repair on the truck, but I decided to go with a replacement.
It is also because of the potential liability from weld embrittlement. The reason the hole is elongating has a lot to do with loading close to the limit anyway.
I agree that it could be possible to repair on the truck, but I decided to go with a replacement.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2006
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Not true, the first day I towed my hauler with a brand new Equalizer Hitch and a never been used receiver hitch on the Ex it had a little bit of slop in it. Everything fit, but it did move every time I stopped and took off. Not major movement, but just the smallest movement, and after towing 15K miles will start to beat up the hitch! That's what happened to mine! I never exceeded the 12,500 pound limit, nor did I ever go over 11K towing.........
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Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 12,237
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From: Florida
Here is an excellent post over on RV.net by a very close friend of mine that shows a very simple $0.10 fix and likely explaination pictures included to the elongation issue...
RV.Net Open Roads Forum: excessive space between hitch shank & hitch receiver
Joe.
RV.Net Open Roads Forum: excessive space between hitch shank & hitch receiver
Joe.
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,198
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From: Tulsa, OK
Not true, the first day I towed my hauler with a brand new Equalizer Hitch and a never been used receiver hitch on the Ex it had a little bit of slop in it. Everything fit, but it did move every time I stopped and took off. Not major movement, but just the smallest movement, and after towing 15K miles will start to beat up the hitch! That's what happened to mine! I never exceeded the 12,500 pound limit, nor did I ever go over 11K towing.........
You and I actually agree. We both have been towing within the limits of the hitch but are still seeing elongation.
What I am saying is that you are "towing heavy". You aren't just towing single axle utility trailers to the hardware store and back. I agree that the angled pins contribute significantly to the wallowed out hole. I also agree that the "slop" of the standard 2" draw bar also contributes.
In my case, the angled pin and the slop in the receiver tube allowed the 10,000 lb trailer to "hammer out" the receiver pin hole. If I had only been towing 2,000 lb, I doubt this would have happened.
The bigger question is -- what do you do now that the pin hole is elongated? My choice is to avoid the legal (and possibly the technical) implications and just replace the entire receiver platform. Expert welding may be perfectly satisfactory, but it would not stand up in court if your trailer broke loose and killed someone.
And, once you repair the platform hitch by whatever means, how do you prevent it from happening again? My opinion is to tighten up the draw bar in the tube and to use a straight pin only.
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2007
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My hitch pin hole looked perfect the first time I used it as the original owner towed very little and little weight. I've now towed my trailers over 12K in 2 years (never over 8K#) and the pin hole is getting really bad. I have towed the same trailers over 20K in 6 years with my MH (class C 460 Ford) and the pin hole looks perfect. I have always used an E-Z Lift.
I looks like the X hitch may be built of softer material.
I looks like the X hitch may be built of softer material.
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