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Engine temp runs cold

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Old Oct 14, 2009 | 03:27 PM
  #1  
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mustang68s
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Engine temp runs cold

Ever since I got my truck, the temp gauge has not gone even up to the 'N' on 'normal', even while pulling a large load. It will blow hot air out of the vents, so I know it's warm (well, enough to feel warm). When I bought the truck, it had the air dams in the grill (I left them in there) to reduce the air flow/cooling to the engine. I don't know if the previous owner had done that becuase of this same issue, or what. Has anyone else had this problem? I wondering if it even has a thermostat in it.

I do have an IR thermometer I can shoot and read the temperature on any part of the engine, but I'm not sure what it should read, or where I should read it.

Thanks!
 
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Old Oct 14, 2009 | 03:48 PM
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Welcome to FTE! It kinda sounds like a stuck thermostat to me. I'm no expert by any means but that would be my guess. Someone else that has delt with this problem will chime in soon.
 
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Old Oct 14, 2009 | 04:01 PM
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Could very well be a stuck thermostat. I would change the thermo Just for sake of knowing it's good.
 
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Old Oct 14, 2009 | 04:18 PM
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x3 sounds like the thermo is stuck open
 
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Old Oct 14, 2009 | 04:22 PM
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Point your IR thermometer right at the base of the thermostat housing. If you have the Ford 195 degree it will probably be at 170 degrees as that is the point they start to open. I've measured mine and that is as hot it would get. I put in a 203 stat and now I see 190 degrees.
 
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Old Oct 14, 2009 | 04:34 PM
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If it is a stuck thermostat, what temp do you guys recommend for a new one?
 
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Old Oct 14, 2009 | 04:41 PM
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What year is your truck. 94-95 uses a different thermostat than the 96-97 trucks.
 
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Old Oct 14, 2009 | 04:54 PM
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It's a '96
 
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Old Oct 14, 2009 | 07:25 PM
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Originally Posted by mustang68s
It's a '96
Then you have the long stem thermostat. Only replacement is at parts house or dealer would be the 193 degree, I think, maybe a 195. Make real sure the length is the same as your original as the 203 degree for the earlier models will be a shorter stem .. about 3/8" and won't function properly.

If you want the DieselSite 203 thermostat then the only place to get it is ...

http://www.dieselsite.com/index.asp?...ROD&ProdID=186

203 degree thermostat from dieselsite is what I went and I'm pleased with it.
 
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Old Oct 14, 2009 | 08:27 PM
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I would recommend the DieselSite 203* thermostat. Makes the heater in the cab actually put out hot heat. Burns diesel more efficiently, the International engine is designed to run at 203* not 193*. It made a huge difference in my truck - also runs smoother with that thermostat.

I knew my thermostat was bad because the truck would never heat up into the normal range at all. I have heard that you should replace them every year or so since the temperature sensitive springs that open and close the thermostat loose their temperature sensitivity after so many heating and cooling cycles. My old one lasted 10 years. I am sure it was not as efficient in its latter years but I did not notice until it would open all the way at 100*.

If your truck isn't reaching the temps it used to, replace the thermostat. It is a cheep fix that makes the truck perform better.
 
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Old Oct 15, 2009 | 12:30 AM
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Thanks guys! I'll do some temp checking with my IR thermometer and see what results I get. I might just get the 203 thermostat anyway.
 
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Old Oct 15, 2009 | 06:21 AM
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Last winter my temp gauge acted just like yorus, so I cut a piece of cardboard and blocked off 80% of the radiator.
Gauge still never went up. SO in the spring I changed the t-stat.
First up was Autiozone. Lasted 2 ro 3 days. Next was a NAPA stat. Lasted 3 months I think.
Lastly went to a Diesel Site 203* stat and it's been 3 or 4 months now and works great.
I've heard even with the DS 203* you can get a bad one, as well as the $75 IH stats you can get bad ones, too. You just never know.

I would HIGHLY recommend getting a brand new water neck (part above the t-stat that water comes out) when you replace the stat. The old ones never seal back up. You can solve it with silicone, works fine, but if you end up with bad stats like me, then you have to deal with cleaning the silicone off and re-applying it everytime you change stats. There's really no guarantee you'll only change the stat just once as I have mentioned, and a new neck will make changing stats about a 25 minute job, after you've done it a few times.

Good luck.
 
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Old Oct 15, 2009 | 07:14 AM
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I will add, use anti seize on the 3 little bolts.
Most leaks come from the over torque of the bolts.
It will bend the flange.

My .02
Bill
 
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Old Oct 15, 2009 | 11:34 PM
  #14  
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I just replaced my water pump and thermostat. My truck barely ever registered above the N or norman either I too last winter cover the 90% of the radiator with no discernable change. With the new tstat and waterpump (I broke of a filler neck bolt in the pump) I also changed the factory temp sensor, and installed a electric water temp sensor, now I get it to register in the mid to high end of the letter o in normal however I have a 195* stat and can see it actually averages about 220* running temp according to water temp gauge. It has been said these factory gauges are just idiot gauges and that kinda proves a point. If your concerned you might want to get a wter temp gauge, they arent that expensive and will give you a far more accurate reading, cheap insurance.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2009 | 02:14 PM
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I just ordered the 203 thermostat, so hopefully that will solve my issues. I did not buy a new water neck yet. I'll take my chances at first. I can get one later if I screw this one up.
 
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