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I am going to be removing the IPR in the morning to change the O-rings. I need the ah proceedure I guess you would say. Any tips or tricks would be nice also. I made the tool you need to actually remove it, but I'm not real sure about getting to it.
What i did was remove the fuel line that goes to the drivers side head from the fpr. Then took the hold down bolts out of the back of the fuel bowl and was able to slide it toward the passenger side enough to have plenty of clearance. It's possible to do it without doing these steps but u won't be able to see anything and have almost no room to work.
Good luck.
Brooks
What is the tool you need?
I'm going to do this when I do the rest of my goodies so I dont have to do it later when I have a chip in there and blow it.
well i've got the fpr loose from the fuel bowl, and the hold down bolt loosened way up but i still can't get this stupid tool in there. i think the flat metal piece is too thick.
I took those bolts completely out of the back of the fuel bowl and was able to shift it quite a bit. I ended up just using 2 regular wrenches on the ipr. 1 for the thin nut on the end, remove solenoid, then second wrench a few turns on the bodynut of the ipr and turned by hand the rest of the way.
What is the tool you need?
I'm going to do this when I do the rest of my goodies so I dont have to do it later when I have a chip in there and blow it.
I believe he's talking about the 1/2" drive socket with the flat steel welded on as the tool. I actually did mine twice. Once with the fuel bowl out and once with it still attached. With the Fuel bowl out, a craftsman 1/2 in drive 1 1/8"? socket worked great just not all the way seated in the ratchet. Second time fuel bowl in, it was hard to get past the bowl with the socket.
just go ahead and remove the fuel bowl. its just 2 bolts and what? one, two, three hose clamps????? haven't gotten to work around a fuel bowl in so long i don't remember how many fuel lines go to it... oh yeah and 2 lines on the front of the fpr that use a 9/16" wrench to get off. easy enought to take out and clean it while your at it as well.
well i kinda want to have it driveable in an hour. i guess i'll just have to put it back together for today. my problem now is that the socket should've been welded about a 20 degrees clockwise from what i did.
After F-ing working on the darn tool all day I've decided that it would be best to just remove the fuel bowl, then use a regular not a deep socket, Drill out the drive so that it fits on the IPR nut, then mark where you want the arm (flat steel) to be welded on the socket at. Then take the socket of weld the arm on where it was marked and lastly redrill the hole into the flat steel arm. My problem was that the angle that the arm was welded on relative to the socket meant that it just would go on with the arm facing the driver's head, and rotating it towards the passenger's head meant that the arm ran into the ine that comes up the front of the fuel bowl.
I welded a flat piece of bar across the end of my socket.
I didnt remove my fuel bowl and Ive done it about 4 times and going to do it again about tomorrow.
I put my socket on and can then get something over the welded bar and loosen it.
Then I crammed my hand in there (tight fit) but it was finger out then.
Reverse procedure going back in.
I can change it in just a couple of minutes now.
I welded a flat piece of bar across the end of my socket.
I didnt remove my fuel bowl and Ive done it about 4 times and going to do it again about tomorrow.
I put my socket on and can then get something over the welded bar and loosen it.
Then I crammed my hand in there (tight fit) but it was finger out then.
Reverse procedure going back in.
I can change it in just a couple of minutes now.
I think if you put a clear hose in the IPR as recomended with the GPs, it would be easy to take it out, dont you think?.