Ok. I know this is sponsored by eastwood and id like to purchase somthing from the sponsor since i'll be spending some time in this forum over winter. So do they make anything like por-15? And I want your opinions on that sytle of paint.

I just picked up a 79 f150 4x4 that has a 360 (was swapped in to take the place of the 300). I'm planning on pulling the steel flatbed off of it along with the cab and painting the frame. I'm not after a show truck just somthing to look decent. I don't want to paint the cab and leave the frame and flatbed looking crappy. SO i was thinking on also shooting the bed with the same paint as the frame. It will most likely never haul much as i'm building it to be a small block street puller Also how do you recomend prepping the frame/steel bed for this paint? I'm new to painting so i'll take anything you have to offer.
Thanks

Andy

 

I have used both Eastwoods rust encapsulator and POR 15. I prefer the POR 15. The Eastwood stuff seemed to be watery. Both were sprayed. As for prep of the frame, its best to remove as much as you can, clean off any dirt and grease then sand blast the frame. Then spray on the POR15 (or what ever your choice will be) I spray on 3 good coats (POR15 says you only need 2 if spraying) while each coat is slightly tacky. As for the bed, if you are using the flat bed, I would do the same as the frame. But with POR15 (not sure on the Eastwood stuff) they recommend a top coat. Reason being is the UV has some affect on the POR15 encapsulator. You can use any paint to topcoat, you just have to apply primer to the POR15 while it is still tacky, otherwise you will have to sand the POR15, which will take forever.

 

How are you prepping this frame? Are you just hand cleaning dirt and grease off of it or are you going down to bare steel. If bare steel then it would be pointless to use POR15 or Encapsulator over clean steel. I'd prime it with something like DP90 or Eastwoods 2K primer (less money). Then top coat it with the Eastwood 2K Chassis Black. The rust encapsulators are designed to go on top of wire brushed rust.

 

Thats what i was wondering. I really only have means of wire brush cleaning it. I don't have access to a sand blaster. I had originally thought that the por-15 and Encapsulator were designed for going over rust. So you can just wire wheel it as best as possible and then clean it off and apply?

What is the best way to wire brush the frame? IE. what tool and attatchment?

 

POR15 is great for going over metal that has been sandblasted as well. They even have a metal prep that etches new metal to be sprayed with POR15. Its not just a rust encapsulator, but also a very tough paint coating as well. Thats one of the things I like about the product. Since the EPA made all manuf remove lead from the paints, DP40 is not what it used to be.

As for wire brushing the frame, I like the cup style wire wheels that attach to a 4 1/2" angle grinder. Afterwards, use a blow gun to remove all dust and dirt. But like I said before, remove all the grease and oil off the frame before doing anything else. It will pay out big time with what ever paint you choose to use.

 

Thanks for all of your help. I had planning on using the brush for the angle grider.

 

Hi all,

I can't help budding in here since you guys are talking about rust.

Our company manufactures Chassis Saver™ Rust Preventive Truck & Auto Underbody Coating
which is a high performance alternate to POR15 at 45% lower cost.

You can not compare Eastwoods rust encapsulator and a product like POR as they are completely
different chemistry. Eastwood's is a modified alkyd primer type product. POR15 and our
Chassis Saver are moisture cure urethanes with far more flexibility and impact resistance.

On a frame that will not be blasted, if you have a good firm layer of rust, you should not remove it.
Just wire brush lightly to get the loose and powdery material off and apply the POR directly over the rust.
For bare metal, you really should roughen the metal with 50 or 60 grit abrasive or a grinder if you can't blast.

I don't particularly like the Eastwood encapsulator as it becomes very brittle after curing and aging for a while.

As far as # of coats to apply with POR or Chassis Saver, you should go with 3 good coats.
I've seen too many failures caused by insufficient film thickness.

Note: Our company is now a regular sponsor on this and other related forums. Please feel free to
contact me if you need any technical advice on rust or painting pertaining to industrial or automotive.

PS: We have just released a new UV Permanent DIY bedliner called MONSTALINER™ (link below)


Paint Over Rust to Stop Rust Permanently With Chassis Saver Truck & Auto Underbody Coating

 

Interesting as I was just looking at Durabak. What I first liked about Durabak is that they had colors and their forest green would be very similar to my 65 Holly Green. I also noticed that extra UV adds about $40 to 1 gallon with two needed for a long bed. UV protection is a prime consideration whether for the truck bed or my eyes. One question I didn't see asked and that is does 2 cans handle a long bed for 2 coats?

 

I used my angle grinder with 40-grit sanding discs on what I could get to and a wire-wheel in the tight spots to knock off most of the rust. Then I sprayed Rustoleum's Rusty Metal Primer over everything to hold off the rust, then sprayed gloss-black Rustoleum over the primer (no not the spray-cans... used a Binks body-gun and layed it on thick). It's held up for a year with no problems at all and only cost $40. I used Rustoleum as a quick, temporary fix and when I do a full frame-off resto, I'll be blasting it and using Chassis Saver. There's no doubt in my mind that it's better looking and longer lasting than Rustoleum.

 

Have to say I have been using the Chassis saver paint on my 89 F250 rebuild project and I like it so far. I sandblasted the frame and sprayed 4 coats in most areas. some only got 3 due to angles and what not. When I finished welding in the replacement floor on the cab I sprayed 3 coats on the underside of the floor and brushed on 2 coats inside to help protect the new floor.

The sun will break down this paint pretty quick if not protected !! I had 1/2 a gun load left one day and one of my trailers were close so it got a quick spray down and in a couple months the paint is no longer glossy and you can see its getting broke down in the sun.

Once this stuff drys its like a rock! watch painting over nuts and bolts as I'm sure it will be very hard to get apart after unless you protect the exposed threads. I'm looking forward to how well it holds up to the Ohio winters and salt here.

 

Hi,

Here is my application:

I have a fairly new (2005) high mileage E 350SD diesel truck (257,000) used in a heavy road salt environment (Ontario, Canada).

It is badly rusted in all the wheel wells, on top of the windshield, rear cargo door, plus on the cargo floor pan.

There may (not confirmed) be rust through in a few spots.

Basically, the rust is where road salt, debris thrown up by the wheels are spraying / abrading the chassis.



I looked at a lot of rust coatings, from Rust Bullet to Ziebart undercoating and I am a bit puzzled.


What would be best for me in this kind of an application where there will be a lot of fairly large temperature (-20C to -30) flux, and where there is a lot of existing salt damage?


What should I do?

Sandblast? Scrape and coat? With what?


Thanks to everyone in advance.


PS.. I am trying to do this project on a tight budget.


I looked at Rust Bullet, and it basically look like a polyurethane varnish with aluminum powder suspended.

Am I alright to basically buy zinc or aluminum powder, mix it with an epoxy coating, and apply it rather than buy a fairly expensive commercial product?

Thanks

 

GEARLOOSE,

You need to be prepared that there is going to be rust-through in more places than you think.
You need to remove any flaky, crumbly and bubbling junk before you do anything and once you do this, you need to be prepared for the consequences.

I don't know what your intentions are with patching, bondo or bodywork but as a quick fix and to preserve what you have you should coat all surfaces.

How much total surface is involved?

Eric


Chassis Saver Rust Preventive Truck & Auto Underbody Coating