Seat Swap
#1
#2
#3
Just did a swap
I changed from bench to bucket last week.
I have a F450 super duty diesel auto.
The hump on the floor is bigger than the smaller F series and the on the drivers side the bucket brackets will work but you have to drill some new holes.
On the passenger side the brackets don't work at all, the seat will be too far off center to the middle.
Take the matching bracket off the old bench seat and put it on the outside of the bucket bracket, remove the bump pin that keeps the rollers from going too far and the rivet on the top that keeps the opposite rollers in then the slide will come apart, hard to explain but if you examine it closely you will figure it out.
Now change the inner as well if it won't sit flat on the floor, mine didn't but I have a larger truck, if it won't work, cut the bracket to make the seat level.
Drill holes, the exhaust heat shield under the cab may be in the way so use a large sheet metal self tapper.
The belts hold you in, not the seats, but use common sense in making them secure.
The seats you use and the truck you have may make all this vary, but I think mine was worse case scenario and I figured it out. Good luck.
I have a F450 super duty diesel auto.
The hump on the floor is bigger than the smaller F series and the on the drivers side the bucket brackets will work but you have to drill some new holes.
On the passenger side the brackets don't work at all, the seat will be too far off center to the middle.
Take the matching bracket off the old bench seat and put it on the outside of the bucket bracket, remove the bump pin that keeps the rollers from going too far and the rivet on the top that keeps the opposite rollers in then the slide will come apart, hard to explain but if you examine it closely you will figure it out.
Now change the inner as well if it won't sit flat on the floor, mine didn't but I have a larger truck, if it won't work, cut the bracket to make the seat level.
Drill holes, the exhaust heat shield under the cab may be in the way so use a large sheet metal self tapper.
The belts hold you in, not the seats, but use common sense in making them secure.
The seats you use and the truck you have may make all this vary, but I think mine was worse case scenario and I figured it out. Good luck.
#4
You need to get to your local salvage yard and look at the C4C's and find a nice seat at a great price I found four 40-20-40 seats for $60.00 for three of them and got on for free, I also got PW and PL and great looking door panels for three trucks. this is the time to go junken before they smash in December.
#6
Mounting seats
An extra washer wouldn't be a bad idea, and a bit of sealant to keep the rust out as well.
But the seatbelts are not attached to the seats so having reinforcement is not an issue.
Just don't hit anything when you drill through.
But the seatbelts are not attached to the seats so having reinforcement is not an issue.
Just don't hit anything when you drill through.
#7
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#8
I just put a 40/20/40 in my truck,I went from a bench and it was a bolt in no drilling or anything.I figure the donor truck was 95 eddie bauer,and my truck is a 97.I picked them up for 12 dollars.If I remember right you will need a 15mm socket deep well and a 5/8 or11/16 can't quite remember.Should take a hour at the most to do the swap.Oh and a t44 torx bit for the seat belts.
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