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You have to take the plastic piece off that covers the engine first. Then remove all the hoses and vacuum lines off the upper intake and remove the cruse and throttle cables, unless DBW. Then remove the rubber tube connecting the air filter box to the throttle body. The EGR tube from the catalytic converter has to be unscrewed and then unbolt the upper intake manifold. I think there is six bolts~~.
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While you are doing this make sure you replace the pvc valve while this is off.
I made the mistake of not doing it and am going to pay for it later this week.
Also you will need new gaskets for the upper intake.(cheap insurance) here is a guide that i used. How to Replace Spark Plugs on A V-6 Ford Escape .: Articles
It wasn't that difficult just time consuming. It might help if you have a good helper there too. I think the most difficult part was attaching the egr tube back to the egr valve
How easy/cumbersome is it to replace the spark plugs?
Thanks.
Ed
If you do a search of spark plug threads you should find a thread from a couple of years ago that has photos and everything. The job takes a couple of hours but there is nothing difficult, just take your time.