Yes, I had planned on doing that. I assume you are talking about the 9 wire harness that connects to the UVCH on the drivers side and not the 42 pin main harness that also sits on the valve cover, right? What about trying to fill the oil and fuel rails with oil and fuel prior to starting? I am still worried that I have screwed up something because of the hydro lock that was caused by the bad injector. I guess I won't know until I put it all back together.

 

I had the large harness off mine -- but that was because I was working on that side and it was in the way. You can just unplug the 9 pin ones if you like. I didn't fill anything on my truck since I have the DFA kit on mine as well. When you're ready to start it, cycle the key to on (not start) until the fuel pump shuts off 3 or 4 times. The fuel rails will fill and purge themselves through your CCK. The oil rails don't take all that long. I had the advantage of being able to watch my ICP slowly build as I cranked it. The second it hit 500, it fired right up. If you can't watch it, just crank for 10 seconds, then let it rest for 10. Shouldn't take more than three of those for it to fire up. If it does, let the starter rest for a few minutes before doing it again.

 

If your cup is really nasty like that injector, get a wood dowel larger than the size of the injector tip and hold it on the hole so you can clean the injector cup out without debris going into the cylinder. I would start with compressed air. If that does not get it perhaps some gun cleaning equipment and solvent while holding the dowel in, then blow out with compressed air. If you don't have compressed air leave it alone. Carb cleaner spray also works but is hard to keep out of the cylinder if you spray it in there.

If you pull the other injectors you will want to have some new orings on hand for them. Good luck.

 

You're right there now, just get it over with and pull all the rest of the injectors and reseal them all.
At the very least, retorque the injectors and the rocker arm pedastals. Your truck will thank you.

 

I took part of your advice and re-torqued my other three injectors. I was able to tighten them considerably. I was concerned that I would over tighten and break the bolt off. I don't have a torque wrench so I just did it by feel.

My injector cup was in terrible shape. I had to take my gun cleaning kit and I scrubbed and cleaned the cup for almost 4 hours trying to get all that crap out, while being very careful not to damage anything. I used a nylon brush instead of a copper one. Now, that the cup is as clean as I can get it, I believe that it is actually brass, instead of copper.

The bad news is that in the bottom of the cup there is a ding right where the copper washer should mate up. It looks like someone dropped a screw driver in there because it is a straight line ding just near the edge of the hole. It isn't cracked. Just enough of an indentation to prevent the copper washer from sealing up good. I then cleaned the injector and there is evidence that the washer was leaking right where the corresponding ding was in the bottom of the injector cup. I am seriously considering trying to fabricate something to put a small piece of 600 grit sandpaper on the end and polish out the ding in the bottom of the cup. I am not certain that I can torque the injector down enough to fill that ding with the copper washer. It is a real pain trying to work on that #7 injector hole and try to use a mirror and a flashlight every few minutes to check progress. My ribs are going to thank me tomorrow.

Another note, is that I recall the injector bolt being very easy to loosen when I took out the injector. I also looked at the bolt and it is rounded off where the dealer tried to tighten it. It will have to be replaced. Yet another mistake by the dealer. I am convinced they had the guy that normally washes the cars working on my truck.

 

You can replace injector cups just FYI.. I think they are about $8 but I think you have to have special tool to remove them.

 

I think you would have to pull the engine to be able to do it and that is not something I want to try and do. Once the engine was out, I don't think replacing the cup would be too bad (with the right tools). I really think that I could sand and polish. Actually, if I just had a flat bottom reamer that I could use to take off about a couple of thousandths of an inch, I could probably get the washer to seal.

 

If they're over torqued, it could distort or crack the cup, which sounds like what you're dealing with. I believe they're supposed to be 120 inch-lbs. (10 foot-lbs.). And no, you don't have to pull the engine to replace the cups. Several on here have done the job, and there is indeed a tool for it. If you buy the cups from Swamps, I believe they send you a tool to do it, which you're supposed to send back when you're done.

 

No you don't have to pull the engine.. In fact, you don't even have to pull the head.. With the right tool, its not difficult at all.

 

OMG! I thought I read 120 ft lbs! Now, I certainly have three over torqued injectors. No wonder they felt loose.

Well, I guess I will be pulling the other injectors now, just to inspect the cups. Thanks for the info. . .I am certainly glad about not having to pull the engine. Do most of you order injectors from swamps also?

 

doh!

 

Swamps does great with injectors!!

Also, Ryan Casserly builds a great injector too.. In fact, I think Clay @ Riff Raff is a dealer.

 

I have Ryan Casserly's hybrids and couldn't be happier. But people with Swamps injectors are equally as happy. I was going to get a set of theirs but got an excellent deal on the Casserlys. Since you might be doing cups too, might as well get everything from Swamps. Not sure if Ryan sells cups and all that or not. But you could certainly get everything from Swamps. Unless you plan on a ton of mods, go with some mild single-shots. If you even think you MIGHT get an upgraded turbo, get hybrids. You'll be able to have them tuned down a bit for your stock turbo, and you can have them tweaked when you get a bigger one.

Here are the torque specs I used:
Rocker are pedestal bolts = 20 ft-lbs
lower injector hold down bolts = 120 in-lbs
GPs = 125 in-lbs
valve cover bolts - 96 in-lbs

 

Here's a bit of info on injector cups with pics. LINK

 

I am on the list to borrow the tooling from Swamps to put the cups in. I plan on ordering the cups and 8 new injectors from them. I would like to go with the split shot but just don't have the money right now and the added expense of the single shot injectors needing a chip to run them puts them out of my reach. I will have to go back with the split shot AD injectors. Thanks for the link. I hope that the tooling Swamps has is different from that shown in the photo. It would make it almost impossible to get the #7 and #8 cups in and out. It looks like the seating tool in that photo is way to long. Also, trying to use a slide hammer on the back cylinders would be impossible. There has to be some way to pull them out. I have read about a guy who built his own with a bridge type of extractor that sits on the bolts of the rocker arms and he just screwed them in and out. There were no photos or information on where to rent or buy such a tool. I think getting them out is going to be far more difficult than putting them back in. Although, getting them in straight and not canted is probably a challenge also.