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Yes. I noticed what I think may be a minor exhaust leak shortly after the UVCH came loose and the engine was running rough. I suspect some of the exhaust manifold and/or up-pipe nuts/bolts might have loosened slightly.
I figured it couldn't hurt to just do a nut and bolt check w/o pulling things apart. I can't afford up-pipes right now so that is out of the question.
If you cannot seal the manifold leak by tightening you can remove it and most machine shops can resurface them, I have had dozens of them done and the shop only charges $26.00 each, you might even find a place that will do it cheaper. Fairly simple to remove and install. There is also gaskets available for a "bandaid" fix.
Al, I know for sure your up pipes are leaking. As far as the manifolds, PM Andy and see if he knows a place near him that does machine work on Saturdays. We are planning on getting together again next Saturday over there and we could pull the manifolds and have them done that afternoon.
Al, I know for sure your up pipes are leaking. As far as the manifolds, PM Andy and see if he knows a place near him that does machine work on Saturdays. We are planning on getting together again next Saturday over there and we could pull the manifolds and have them done that afternoon.
Peter,
By next Sat, do you mean March 5th?
If so, I'll be there. I need to replace a tie rod and oil and could use a second set of eyes making sure I don't do anything stupid.
I won't have time to pull manifolds and machine them during March. Busy month for me. 1st race is the weekend of March 11-13 and that will also be my first tow so I need to get some front end issues resolved, get the truck aligned, buy a replacement trailer wiring plug at the bumper (original one was cut off) and learn about brake controllers and whether the truck has one.
... and learn about brake controllers and whether the truck has one.
Al, if you can afford it, get the Tekonsha Prodigy (newest version is the P3, but you can still get the Prodigy) and we can mount it in your truck. This is what it looks like:
Then go to a trailer store and get the Ford specific harness for the '99 - '03 trucks. It looks like this, but with the bare wires on the end where the flat plug is:
The end where the brown plug is located is the Ford specific plug. It plugs into the harness plug behind your dash, located here:
That keeps you from needing to splice into the harness behind your dash.
If so, I'll be there. I need to replace a tie rod and oil and could use a second set of eyes making sure I don't do anything stupid.
I won't have time to pull manifolds and machine them during March. Busy month for me. 1st race is the weekend of March 11-13 and that will also be my first tow so I need to get some front end issues resolved, get the truck aligned, buy a replacement trailer wiring plug at the bumper (original one was cut off) and learn about brake controllers and whether the truck has one.
March 5th is the plan. I will PM you this week once we firm up a time.
If so, I'll be there. I need to replace a tie rod and oil and could use a second set of eyes making sure I don't do anything stupid.
I won't have time to pull manifolds and machine them during March. Busy month for me. 1st race is the weekend of March 11-13 and that will also be my first tow so I need to get some front end issues resolved, get the truck aligned, buy a replacement trailer wiring plug at the bumper (original one was cut off) and learn about brake controllers and whether the truck has one.
I am hoping to be there also... I have a tie rod end to do as well and a long list of other things that we wont get to since we are going to be tearing peters truck apart. If you dont have a break controller (im assuming you dont since you would notice a box attached to your lower dash) I am more then will to help you with that kinda stuff. I tow ALOT and am pretty savvy on how the wiring and boxs work and hook up. If you can not afford the fine piece of technology Stewart posted just make sure you get one that has a digital read out. Also I would be willing to go with you to buy what you need on Sat.
Stewart it is sounding like bringing your air compressor and tools will be handy IMO. Hope I can make it!!!
Gonna have to check my exhaust manifold for leaks after reading this Thread. I smell some exhaust coming through with the heater fan on. Maybe this is a source. Nice photos.
Finally inspected my exhaust manifolds. The exhaust ports closest to the firewall were leaking on both sides. Basically - the exhaust manifold bolts for the #7 and #8 cylinders were loose with some exhaust leakage occurring on both sides of the engine. All other cylinders were still sufficiently sealed. The bolts closest to the firewall on the #5 and #6 cylinders were each slightly loose. But the fourth bolts forward from the firewall, and all others further from the firewall were tight.
Probably worth inspecting your exhaust manifolds for leakage back next to the firewall. These 7.3s seem to be prone to leakage on the two rear-most cylinders.
Nothing special about the bolts. They're 10mm x 1.5 thread. I think the up-pipes that are fastened to the exhaust manifold adjacent to the firewall likely exert some push-pull forces during expansion and contraction of the up pipes that leads to the problem on the #7 and #8 exhaust manifold leakage.
I intend to check mine every 10,000 miles or so - maybe every other oil change - and re-torque to the specified 45 ft-lbs as necessary.
I have both of my front plastic fender liners out right now. Makes it really easy to inspect and access the back four exhaust manifold bolts. I pulled those four and put some anti-seize compound on them multiple times while running them in and out repeatedly on the passenger side. On the drivers side, I decided to run a thread tap into the exhaust manifold female threads to clean up the threads prior to using anti-seize compound. Also cleaned up the threads on the a few of the bolts that were a bit rough - visually.
First, make sure they are leaking. No need to fix what isn't broke, right? If you are leaking, you'll need somewhere that can machine the flanges flush & flat.
As for bolts, since no one has mentioned the part# for the bolts, I'd say that unless you break one, I'd clean all the threads (internal and external) and reuse them.
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