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trying to start 68' 360

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Old Oct 7, 2009 | 06:53 PM
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trying to start 68' 360

I'm working on a 1968 360ci 3spd manual in a f-100 ranger.

I can't seem to get it to start. The engine turns but doesn't fire. just turns and turns and starts to slow down, like it's getting bogged down.

btw. This is a manual choke carb. I've tried to start choked and non choked.

I put a rebuild on the carb, although it is my first time doing a rebuild... So I'm not entirely sure if it is correct. I purchased new sparkplugs although now that I look closer I think I might have purchased the wrong plugs! the original plugs had 35 on them, and my new ones have 45. Is this a problem? Checked the distributor seems a little corroded but not too severe. I checked the resistance in the spark plug cables there WAS resistance although I'm not entirely sure how much I should have. I replaced the fuel filter. Changed the oil and filter.

Could the problem be the carb? could a poor rebuild affect the air/fuel ratios? thus creating a rich oxygen or too rich fuel mix?

When attempting to start I used a "gas iv" to bypass the fuel tank/fuel line I rigged a 12 oz sports drink bottle to supply the fuel pump gas. While trying to start the engine it sucked up around 24 oz of fuel. Is this too much? did I flood the engine?

When first working on the engine I turned the engine by hand. Could I have messed up the firing order of the cylinders? Could this be why the engine is not starting?

Is there a way I can see if the sparkplugs are sparking?

I feel like I might have packed a lot into this single post. BUT I really want to make this work. SO any help is appreciated!

Steven
 
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Old Oct 7, 2009 | 06:58 PM
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I also checked the compression on the cylinders and they all seemed fine
 
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Old Oct 7, 2009 | 10:30 PM
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Find Top Dead Center on #1 on the comprssion stroke. Pull the plugs it will turn easy. Put in a comp tester on 1, turn and you will see it build. That will be the compression stroke. Pull the tester and bring the piston to the top. You can poke a dowl in and see when it is highest. Then look at your diz rotor it should be pointing at the #1 plug post on the cap. Notice how you line up on your balancer too. This will at least get you to some kind of timing. That takes care of oxygen, Then it will be fuel or fire.
 
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Old Oct 8, 2009 | 11:51 AM
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First, check if you have spark at the coil. Pull the center wire from the distributor cap, and put it about 1/2" away from the engine and crank it. If you have spark, pull a spark plug wire and do the same thing.

If you have spark, I'd check the timing like Kennewick points out.
 
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Old Oct 8, 2009 | 01:28 PM
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You might want to double check your wires on the distributor cap and make sure they're all in order. I just went through this on a 77 F-150 with a 390 that also had a manual choke. The entire carb was rebuilt by a shop and was thought to be good to go. Had to play with the timing a bit to get it started. It ran, but not real good. Got it running enough to be driven to a performance shop to have a new electric choke conversion kit installed and the engine all dialed in. The guy who rebuilt the carb there found one of the new jets had some corossion build-up on it, replace the jet and it ran better.

Hope this helps
OJ
 
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Old Oct 10, 2009 | 03:42 PM
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Thanks for the input.

I've double checked to make sure that the cables were on the right places. I'm going to pick up a new distributor cap and rotor today and check the spark like you guys said. Thanks again, I'll post the outcome!

steven
 
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Old Oct 10, 2009 | 06:25 PM
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Once you are certain you have spark, and it still won't start, try putting a tablespoon or two directly down the carb throat. If the engine starts and runs for a few seconds, you'll know lack of fuel is the answer.

EDIT: Don't pour the gas in while cranking, and don't look down the carb when someone else is cranking. Just pour it down and then go to the cab and turn the key.

The reason your cranking is slowing down is probably just the battery discharging. The feul from the bottle probably got used merely filling up the carb float bowl(s)..

If it slowed down from flooding, it's your igntion system and the plugs should be soaked with gas when you remove them..
 
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Old Oct 11, 2009 | 10:06 PM
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Checked to see if the cable from the ignition coil to the TOP of the distributor cap, not not the small cable leading to the breaker points, would spark. No spark.

next step? check the capacitor/ breaker points are working? check the gap between the breaker points is good? also test capacitor works? any other ideas?

I'll let you know how this goes!

I also purchased new spark plug cables/ distributor cap/ rotor.
 
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Old Oct 11, 2009 | 11:37 PM
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Was this thing running when it was parked?

Rotate the engine and note the motion of the rotor. Reverse the rotation, and note how many degrees of crank rotation before the rotor moves. A worn out timing set will allow timing (cam and ignition) to wander all over the place. It will also allow the cam to jump out of time, resulting in no start.

Put a plug on the exhaust manifold all hooked up, and see if you have an arc on the plug. Move backwards to where you find electricity, and repair as needed if you don't get an arc.
 
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Old Oct 14, 2009 | 12:21 AM
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Yes the truck was parked running.

Checked the coil resistance by connecting ohms meter to the positive and negative leads. It read 1-2 ohms. this good?

checked the condenser on the coil on an ohms meter and i got no reading. Does this mean it's infinity or is that no resistance?

thanks

Steve
 
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Old Oct 14, 2009 | 07:18 AM
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Originally Posted by 1968f100ranger
checked the condenser on the coil on an ohms meter and i got no reading. Does this mean it's infinity or is that no resistance?
The condensor is hard to test with an ohm meter. You got the right reading, infinity.
 
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Old Oct 14, 2009 | 07:20 AM
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Haven't checked the points? Always check ignition first- no sparkee, no runee. If you pull the cap & rotor, you can spin the engine with a remote switch, and see if you see little sparks coming from the points- I'd guess they're pretty corroded from sitting around, and you won't see any- or intermittant- sparks. Make sure there's no spilled gas or any other combustible substance in the area when you do this- and always have an extinguisher sitting right next to you when working on a problem child. Many times a quick cleanup, even just scraping with a tiny screwdriver, will get them to fire, and at least get it started. Do you have anyone available to help, who's installed new points before? Not expensive and not difficult, but much easier to learn by watching someone the first time
 
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