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thanks for this post.... i'm right to the point of installing the springs in my 65 and i did not keep track of which is which on the coils, i did notice there was blue marks on 1 coil and yellow on the other.
Thanks guys - will do the coil spring swap tomorrow. I'll also check the spring height compared to the original '66 coils - that could also make a height difference. The cab and body mounts look OK, but worn with no rust around them. Maybe something else to replace down the road a bit.
Changing coil springs is fun!!!
dagger
Dagger, it shouldn't be too bad, especially since you've had it apart fairly recently. It's nice that you don't need a spring compressor for these things. I hope this levels your truck out.
BillW, I can't tell you how many times I've benefited from someone else's post like this, too! I love these forums!
Hi Bill - ya, no color strips visible on any of these springs Dial caliper to the rescue.
37 Ford Guy - as far as breaking loose nuts and bolts, no problem as they were all gone thru within the last couple of years. However, I did have to use a spring compressor - the 1 and 3/16" socket would not fit thru the coils and so with the new poly radius arm bushings and everything else tight I could not pull the coil springs out from the upper bracket. Just to add to my fun....
Now, if I could just find the torque spec to the big spring nut (shop manual is cryptic in their description!!) I can reassemble.
Bill W - glad this thread helped you out. Gotta love this forum!
Thanks once again ford-trucks.com and all who take the time to help others out!!
37 Ford - I tried not using the spring compressor on the reinstall, and with a little extra push down/push in effort it worked! Thanks - that saved me a little time.
Results: the front end is now level/equal and the right rear is now only down by a 1/2". Definitely worth the effort!! Many thanks for the different spring diameters for LF and RF springs info/suggestion. I bounced the front end a few times before measuring, but I need to take it for a drive and do final measurements.
OK - what next to get that final 1/2" leveling. Shackle? New leaf spring (maybe a little more heavy duty like Ford did with the front coil springs)? I don't have the spare mounted on the right side in the bed so that will add some weight on the wrong side.
37 Ford - I tried not using the spring compressor on the reinstall, and with a little extra push down/push in effort it worked! Thanks - that saved me a little time.
Results: the front end is now level/equal and the right rear is now only down by a 1/2". Definitely worth the effort!! Many thanks for the different spring diameters for LF and RF springs info/suggestion. I bounced the front end a few times before measuring, but I need to take it for a drive and do final measurements.
OK - what next to get that final 1/2" leveling. Shackle? New leaf spring (maybe a little more heavy duty like Ford did with the front coil springs)? I don't have the spare mounted on the right side in the bed so that will add some weight on the wrong side.
Cheers,
daggerNC
Hey Dagger, congrats on the successful spring swap! Yes, you definitely have to drive it around a little and measure again. Now, if the 1/2" difference in the rear is still there, are you really going to notice it if you don't have your tape measure out?? Just park it on an uneven surface and it'll go away......LOL!
funny 37 Ford Guy Thanks for the replies. Nice white '66 BTW!
The 1/2" still bugs me - I guess its in my nature being an engineer kind of guy. I KNOW its there, I know it shouldn't be there after all the work I've done, so now it will bug me until I figure it out..... OK, just shoot me!
I'm suppose to see a guy tomorrow who is a mechanic - we'll see if he sees anthing...
funny 37 Ford Guy Thanks for the replies. Nice white '66 BTW!
The 1/2" still bugs me - I guess its in my nature being an engineer kind of guy. I KNOW its there, I know it shouldn't be there after all the work I've done, so now it will bug me until I figure it out..... OK, just shoot me!
I'm suppose to see a guy tomorrow who is a mechanic - we'll see if he sees anthing...
Thanks for the kudos on my truck, Dag! It's fun. There's a long list of things I'd like to do to it but for now I'm just going to drive it and wash it. The power steering/disc brake/sway bar conversion made a huge difference in how it drives. I also put new urethane bushings in on the radius arms, pivots, & sway bar. Now if I could just figure out how to make it a little more mpg friendly.....
Good luck with your mechanic! I hope that 1/2" doesn't set you back too many $$$$!
Driving the truck this morning settled the front end down 3/4", but the good news is they are both level!!! The right rear is still almost 1/2" down. The mechanic I was suppose to see never returned my call........scratch him off the list. Not sure what to do next now for the remaining sag. Will also look into the vibration/noise a certain speeds, but looks like that's next weekend ToDo's.
Could it possibly be in the frame? Maybe from years of twisting? Like you, my truck is completely rust free and actually has only 69K on it, but my RR is down quite a bit. Hope to have mine back together soon to start digging in. In the middle of disc brake/power steering/drop I-beams. Keep me posted on what you find.
jhooch - that was one of my first concerns (twisted frame). But the alignment guy said that he didn't see anything out of spec on his laser frame machine.... Still, I wish I could have been there to watch him do the actual checks.
Question - what is the opinion on going with a slightly higher leaf spring rate for the right side to raise the RR up my 1/2"? I ask this because Ford saw that for the front end they spec'd out stiffer RF coil spring to compensate for the engine offset weight. This seems to imply slightly different spring rates are OK and don't affect handling significantly. Does this apply to the rear leaf springs also? Or would a safer bet be to get a 1/2" spacer.
pickupmanx2 started to point it out (frame vs fender)
and
61 rust pile again when he brought up body mounts
if all mounts are straight with no rust...could it be the rubber
since rubber does not rust? but can compress with age by that amount...
just a thought
unibody - I don't believe the bed has any large/elevating rubber body mounts on my '66. From what I see the bed bolts directly to the frame with small blocks of wood filling the raised channel between the bed and rail (unless I've missed something completely which wouldn't be a first)?
The beds do not use rubber mounts like cabs. What I plan to do since I drag race mine anyway, is install an airbag on the RR. I can use it to make sure the truck is level when cruising and make sure the right rear tire plants during launch.
unibody - I don't believe the bed has any large/elevating rubber body mounts on my '66. From what I see the bed bolts directly to the frame with small blocks of wood filling the raised channel between the bed and rail (unless I've missed something completely which wouldn't be a first)?
Perhaps for the sake of thoroughness, you should measure the gap between the bed & the top of the frame rails to see if they are consistent on each side. Although, if this was the problem you would probably see it in mismatched body lines, etc.
Is parking on an uneven surface and forgetting about it starting to look better to you yet?? Just teasin! LOL!
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