Apparently, I HAVE NOT remedied my issue.
Truck will die when idling to a stop WHILE THE ENGINE IS COLD.
Once it warms up, no problems.
I concluded that it is ignition related, as there is no sputter, stumble, anything of the sort...just straight DEAD. ASAP.
ALWAYS cranks right back.
Will idle all day.
No CEL or SES lights.
New plugs, dist cap and rotor, fuel filter, air filter, air filter.
All of the above was done and NO PROBLEMS for a week.
Rains today, and here we go again!
That only leaves 3 possibilities:
1.PIP sensor in the distributor.
2.Coil
3.ICM
I have BOUGHT an ICM, but I havnt installed it b/c after the fact Im reading all this 'gray ICM' vs. Black ICM and Im not following(translation if the gray that I purchased is problematic, I can take it back unused).

 

What year truck and engine size are you working on?

 

97 F250HD with the 351W

 

It takes a Black ICM.
If it has a Gray one on it a black one may fix your problem.
Make sure your IAC valve is working, with it idling unplug it and if the idle drops it is OK.

I do not see the PIP or coil doing this.

 

How exactly do you go about finding a BLACK ICM? Oreillys and AZ only have the gray one.
I will check the IAC tommorow.

 

Both O'Reillys and AZ will have it in stock, you only have to convince them that they do. It is just that there look up gives the wrong information. This all started because Ford put out the wrong information way back when and now it does not seam like it can be changed.
Evan a lot of the Ford dealers will still try sell you the wrong one, but a few of them are aware and will sell the right one.


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The Ford part number should be:5U2J-12A297-DA

 

At start up idle do the RPM's bob a bit like its trying not to stall at all or does it just always die? My 87 F-150 used to stall out, even when coasting to a stop, and start right back up when it was cold but when it warmed up no problems at all, ran fine. At first I thought it was cause I was REAL rusty with a clutch... Later I replaced the MAP sensor (after IAC, and TPS with no luck) and it never did it again.

 

SubFord, thank you for that information. I couldnt really find anything on the DIFFERENCE between the 2. Now it makes more sense! I will get on that later today.
Volvo, it idles fine. No dips, studders, anything. And if I let it sit out there until it reaches NORMAL OPERATING TEMP, it will never, not ONCE die on me. But the symptoms u are talking about sound about right.

 

BTW, if you change the vehicle lookup configuration(a manual instead of auto, 302, etc...)will it locate the BLACK ICM? Im scared if I go back there and just start going thru boxes Ill wind up with a black one....but the WRONG black one! Or is there any other variant?

 

As far as I know there is only one remote mounted black ICM.


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Ok. Just found a BLACK ICM.
Installed and we shall see what happens...
Apparently, my fuel pump decided to take a dump on the front tank as my girlfriend was trying to crank the truck. All of a sudden it decided to not start(that is the 1st and only time it has done that).

BTW....I found the BLACK TFI by searching for an ICM for a 95 Mustang w/302.
That should help anyone else if they have the same issue...

 

Well, as usual. Issue seemed resolved. Ive found a few more factors. It happens when it is raining and humid. CONSTANTLY now! Even when the engine is warmed up sometimes, now. The goofy son of a biatch FINALLY threw a code indicating a IAC issue. So onto stage 3...

 

Mavrik4x4 the tip about the Mustang will work at Advance Auto also. 1995 Mustang GT with302/V8 will get you the BWD CBE40Z module (black) not the CBE33Z (gray) they have listed for our trucks. Thanks for info; I bought from a dealer to get my black one.

 

Good deal. Glad I could help. Pay it forward, my friend!