which pistons?
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2005
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which pistons?
I just got my new crank, motor now going to machine shop. I am going to zero deck the block and mill the head, was told to use stock dished pistons by clifford and other sources. I would like to have around 9.0-9.5 compression ratio. Just curious were I will be with this setup, or if I should go with a flat top piston.
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: Spokane, WA
Pistons - SummitRacing.com
The zero decking will make for a little bump in the cr so have your machinist mill the head to achieve the cr you want...get over 9.0 and you might be looking at running more expensive gas.
The zero decking will make for a little bump in the cr so have your machinist mill the head to achieve the cr you want...get over 9.0 and you might be looking at running more expensive gas.
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Near Los Angeles
I just went through it a few months back. I took .020 off the block, and the same off the head. Make sure you P&P the head for good hp gain. Make sure your machine shop checks for bore alignment of the cam journals!!! The crank gets polished!! Balance everything.
Are you having over size valves installed? I went with a dish piston, with chrome molly rings, and over size sbc valves, a nice mild isky cam, and got miles of power with about 15 mpg on the freeway. I would say the Clifford build is nice, but pricey and poor milage. You can equal it much cheaper using parts from different places.
Are you having over size valves installed? I went with a dish piston, with chrome molly rings, and over size sbc valves, a nice mild isky cam, and got miles of power with about 15 mpg on the freeway. I would say the Clifford build is nice, but pricey and poor milage. You can equal it much cheaper using parts from different places.
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I am going to zero deck the block, I already have a offenhauser DP intake and I will use FI exhaust manifolds. Have not chosen a cam yet or decided how crazy to go with the head. I would like to be close to 300 horse but don't want to lose to much torque. motor is going into 79 F-150 with 35's and manual trans. Any other advice would help, been building big blocks for years not very familiar with straight six.
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Near Los Angeles
If you're looking for that much hp, then I would suggest going with .050 over bore and installing 360 forged flat top pistons. Also, you definately need to install the sbc valves...1.94 intakes, 1.60 exhaust. You won't be using regular gas. Of course you will need ARP rod, main, and head bolts and rocker studs.
The amount you are shaving of the block and head means different pushrods too. I would also consider your oiling system, and the need for a modified pan, hv pump, and possibly a cooler.
Col. Flashman on this forum did that build and I think he dyno'ed at 310 hp.
Good luck.
The amount you are shaving of the block and head means different pushrods too. I would also consider your oiling system, and the need for a modified pan, hv pump, and possibly a cooler.
Col. Flashman on this forum did that build and I think he dyno'ed at 310 hp.
Good luck.
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,193
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From: Near Los Angeles
Research. I bought the valves and took them to my machinist. With a professional P&P, new seats, rocker studs, etc., it ran about $1,000.
Ross has the pistons for about $400. The is a you tube video of a 300 with the forges pistons running. Google ford 300 cam. That engine has about 300 hp.
Ross has the pistons for about $400. The is a you tube video of a 300 with the forges pistons running. Google ford 300 cam. That engine has about 300 hp.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,193
Likes: 386
From: Near Los Angeles
Also, with the dp manifold, you can't match the runners to the head like you can with a C manifold, and that cuts the hp a bit.
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