Heater Core
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New User
Joined: Oct 2009
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From: Syracuse, NE
Heater Core
I have a 68 ford Ranger and it dont blow any heat out. I think the heater core might be bad a was wondering how to remove it. It has factory air and its and underdash unit. I have been trying to remove it allday and just cant get it to drop out. any advice would be great! thanks
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,893
Likes: 12
From: Ohio
Welcome to the site.
Does your underdash air have the glovebox in it? Or is it just the air unit only? I've had both types, but not sure if one was factory or what.
Anyway, both mine bolted to the bottom of the dash lip. If it's the big unit with glove box in the front, the heater hoses might need to be loosed from the motor and allowed to slip thru the firewall as you pull the unit down from the dash. Might have to look at the a/c hoses too, depending on how they were routed and how tight they are.
If you have the big unit, the heater core is a #($&#( to remove, as I did it once. You have to dismantle the entire unit to get the core out, it would be too simple to have a hole in the back side.
How about this: remove the hoses from engine and try flushing each way with water? If you can get water flow, then you might not have to tear it apart. Might also be the heater control valve under hood. It might move the arm on the outside, but I've had the guts inside be loose and not move(rusted solid).
Does your underdash air have the glovebox in it? Or is it just the air unit only? I've had both types, but not sure if one was factory or what.
Anyway, both mine bolted to the bottom of the dash lip. If it's the big unit with glove box in the front, the heater hoses might need to be loosed from the motor and allowed to slip thru the firewall as you pull the unit down from the dash. Might have to look at the a/c hoses too, depending on how they were routed and how tight they are.
If you have the big unit, the heater core is a #($&#( to remove, as I did it once. You have to dismantle the entire unit to get the core out, it would be too simple to have a hole in the back side.
How about this: remove the hoses from engine and try flushing each way with water? If you can get water flow, then you might not have to tear it apart. Might also be the heater control valve under hood. It might move the arm on the outside, but I've had the guts inside be loose and not move(rusted solid).
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 24,552
Likes: 74
From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
I'd try flushing it before replacing it. If it aint leaking that is a plus. I would hold out on replacing as long as in isn't leaking and will flow water from a hose.
The fins on the water pump could be eroded away enough that it isn't supplying hot water to the core.
Check it out good before you start spending money.
John
The fins on the water pump could be eroded away enough that it isn't supplying hot water to the core.
Check it out good before you start spending money.
John
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,857
Likes: 5
From: Northern CA
That would be the very first thing that I would check, but since you're already knee deep into a R & R, I don't want to discourage your progress.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,893
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From: Ohio
Oh gawd....that big unit style was a PAIN!!!! Mine started leaking and had to replace it. There is no easy way, drop the thing down, dismantle the whole freak'n thing from the front to get to the back where the core is held. Then reverse procedure. Not sure, but if you do pull it down, replace the hoses NOW!!! Don't wait to do it again later.
I pulled the unit from the truck when I finally scrapped truck. I kept it in the basement for many years til I moved and I think I pitched it figuring no one would want it.
The bad part is the unit is huge, taking up the space behind the glovebo
why there is one in the front of it, then it hangs way down below dash taking alot of legroom away. Never worried, as I never had to ride over there LOL!!!
I pulled the unit from the truck when I finally scrapped truck. I kept it in the basement for many years til I moved and I think I pitched it figuring no one would want it.
The bad part is the unit is huge, taking up the space behind the glovebo
why there is one in the front of it, then it hangs way down below dash taking alot of legroom away. Never worried, as I never had to ride over there LOL!!!
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New User
Joined: Oct 2009
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From: Syracuse, NE
Thanks alot everyone for the advice! I really appreciate it! I'll let everyone know if i get it fixed up lol
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New User
Joined: Oct 2009
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From: Syracuse, NE
well i have the whole unit out, flushed the core, changed the hoses, checked the flow, made sure all my vent ducts are open and still now heat....im at a loss right now. any advice?
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 24,552
Likes: 74
From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
Look if the core is open, and hot water is flowing you will get heat.
You say the core is open, and you have no heat, leaves the water isn't flowing.
As long as there is no valve in the heater hoses under the hood, go to the water pump. If it aint pumping hot water to the core you aint gonna get any heat.
These ol truck heaters are about as simple as they come.
John
You say the core is open, and you have no heat, leaves the water isn't flowing.
As long as there is no valve in the heater hoses under the hood, go to the water pump. If it aint pumping hot water to the core you aint gonna get any heat.
These ol truck heaters are about as simple as they come.
John
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 281
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From: Kernersville, NC
Have you checked the thermostat?
If the water isn't getting hot, the heater won't produce heat.
How about the heater valve?
If hot water isn't flowing to the heater, it can't get hot.
Are both of the hoses hot?
You say it has good flow. Have you taken it to a radiator shop to make sure the flow is good throughout the core? It may be bypassing the tubes because they are actually clogged. Flow would still be there through the hoses, but the coolant has to flow through the tubes and they need to be clean.
If the water isn't getting hot, the heater won't produce heat.
How about the heater valve?
If hot water isn't flowing to the heater, it can't get hot.
Are both of the hoses hot?
You say it has good flow. Have you taken it to a radiator shop to make sure the flow is good throughout the core? It may be bypassing the tubes because they are actually clogged. Flow would still be there through the hoses, but the coolant has to flow through the tubes and they need to be clean.
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
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From: Simi Valley, CA
Dealer installed A/C: The glove box is in its usual location.
Originally Posted by Freightrain
Might also be the heater control valve under the hood.
MSRP: $38.46 // FTE sponsor Y2KFORDPARTS.COM price: $23.08.
ALL 1967/72 F100/750's have this heater valve whether A/C is present or not.
It also fits: 1961/66 F100/1100 // 1961/67 Econoline // 1966/77 Bronco // 1973/79 F600/880.
It's cable operated and is spliced into the inlet to heater core heater hose located on the right fender inner apron.
What happens to it: It either rusts out completely, or gets stuck closed or partially open...both due to rust.
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New User
Joined: Oct 2009
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From: Syracuse, NE
i ended up replacing the thermostat and the linkange on the heater itself. I also found that the hoses were swithced around by whoever had previously owned it before. As it turns out i got the heater going for around 14 dollars. Thanks everyone for all the great advice!
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 280
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From: pine city washington
i have to replace the heater core in my 96 ranger,what a pain the shop wants about 1000 bucks to do it,i told them no thanks it only leaks a little by the way don't put stop leak in the previous owner did and it plugs everything up.
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