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MUCH lower EGTs and backpressure. It lets you run more boost without putting a severe load on the thrust bearing. That's what I paid for mine, and added a rebuild kit, non-EBPV pedestal, and outlet adapter for our trucks. You can plug your own pedestal and save about $100. While you're there, put a WW or ATS housing on it (if you haven't done it to your stocker already). I'm running the stock wheel and ATS housing here...
EDIT: It will support a bit over 400 rwhp if you have the tuning and injectors to drive it. I'm into mine for about $900, but the ATS alone was ~$400 of that. If you go with the WW instead, it'll be around $500 total if you plug your stock pedestal.
MUCH lower EGTs and backpressure. It lets you run more boost without putting a severe load on the thrust bearing. That's what I paid for mine, and added a rebuild kit, non-EBPV pedestal, and outlet adapter for our trucks. You can plug your own pedestal and save about $100. While you're there, put a WW or ATS housing on it (if you haven't done it to your stocker already). I'm running the stock wheel and ATS housing here...
The turbo has 30,000 miles on it. So it shouldn't need a rebuild. How much does the pedestal cost? Will I notice any improvements on a stock truck?
I wouldn't do it unless you plan on tuning for it. Stock tuning + van turbo = VERY laggy turbo. You can remove the EBPV actuator and plug your pedestal, and as long as there is no in & out play on the wheel, and it doesn't move side-to-side enough to hit the housing, it won't need rebuilt. You WILL need a truck outlet adapter, and at least put the Wicked Wheel on. Here are the pics from when I did mine: Van Turbo pictures from friends & fun photos on webshots
Here is what the two outlet adapters look like. The van's down-pipe is smaller because of clearance, so the outlet adapter is smaller:
You can get something like a tow tune (around a 60hp bump) that makes it SAFER on your trans, and is about half of the increase most of us run. Plus, with the van turbo, you wouldn't even need gauges. That is, unless you plan on towing very heavy. Did this van turbo come off a van or did someone already mod it for a truck? And if you're going to pass on it, you might pass on the info to someone here that might want to snap it up.
I wouldn't do it unless you plan on tuning for it. Stock tuning + van turbo = VERY laggy turbo.
Joe, have you run a van turbo on a stock motor? Just curious, because the OBS trucks use the same A/R ratio turbo and smaller sticks and they aren't unbearably slow to spool from my experience.
Joe, have you run a van turbo on a stock motor? Just curious, because the OBS trucks use the same A/R ratio turbo and smaller sticks and they aren't unbearably slow to spool from my experience.
while it is true that the OBS uses the same A/R of 1.15, the OBS turbos are much smaller in comparison. Bigger inducer and exducer on the SD/van turbos, than the OBS used.
while it is true that the OBS uses the same A/R of 1.15, the OBS turbos are much smaller in comparison. Bigger inducer and exducer on the SD/van turbos, than the OBS used.
Good point, my brain was stuck on early 99 which IIRC is an OBS on the compressor side but with the smaller wastegated exhaust housing. I fail again
That's s good deal. If no rebuild is needed, all you need for your truck is an outlet adapter and to plug your pedestal. And if it doesn't have a WW, might as well put one of those on too, unless you go with a ported housing. I guess you could just pull the wheel off your turbo, Jim.