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Old Sep 29, 2009 | 12:07 PM
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slight changes

can i take my cooling fan off in the winter? it gets down to -40 degrees bellow zero here once in a while and its one of those climates where i think its plenty cool outside to run it that way. i also lack heating in the cab because i believe the fan clutch is fully engaged all winter.

and

is there a modification for the air intake on these? that plastic duct from under the hood probably doesn't do **** let alone a decent flow to the intake. can i make a small tube for both inputs on the TB and put it next to the cooling fan?
 
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Old Sep 29, 2009 | 09:21 PM
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NO! Dont take it off. I lived in Canada for ten years. Hit -40 many times. My heater didnt work very good. But if you take it off, it will over heat if you sit still very long. The best thing is a piece of cardboard between the grill and rad. Even that can make your truck over heat if you run it hard. You could go electric fan.

You can see what I did to my intake in my gallery. Works pretty good
 
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Old Sep 29, 2009 | 10:22 PM
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like helirich said don't take if off. you can test your clutch a few ways ( can you spin the fan with the engine stopped? you can also remove your coil wire so the engine cant start, then hold the fan while someone turns over the engine), you can also install a t-stat with a higher temp setting. the cardboard also works well. the best way to do that is to cut out an 8-10" hole in the cardboard to let enough air thru to prevent overheating but still keep things warm.
 
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Old Sep 29, 2009 | 11:39 PM
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cardboard in front of the rad did nothing. old heater core got flushed then i installed a new heater core. rad filled to the top.12lbs cap. blower motor has good voltage going to it. no teeth are broken. box is not dirty. fan is not dirty.

on some of the coldest days, i could not get the heat above 20 degrees on ful blast

the fan moves, just very stiff. i can actually feel when the fan is disengaged while driving, very noticeable difference when it does (once every 200 miles probably).

can i just install a electric fan from a car and attach a timed switch
 
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Old Sep 30, 2009 | 12:09 AM
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Have you ever used some type of radiator sealant product, the powdered kind?

Does the water actually get warm enough in the radiator? Have you checked the flow in the radiator while the engine is running? Checked the temp of the fluid?

I found that it plugged up the water pump and the radiator, bought a new water pump had the radiator cleaned out. The fluid actually moves thru the radiator now, engine runs cooler and better. Not Great, but better. It's the DonKo, in My Garage. Check out the new Ford Water Pump, then laugh.
 
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Old Sep 30, 2009 | 10:19 AM
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the water pump was brand new when i bought this used motor. the place i bought it from installed it new with a new gasket (probably a rebuilt water pump).

the lines to and from the heater core are hot as hell. radiator flow works ok, thermostat opens and closes when it should.

on full blast out of the vents there is nothing coming out of the far vent next to the driver window. every other one works ok, the ones in front of the passenger work great (go figure)

i sealed the box that contains the heater core with insulation tape
 
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Old Sep 30, 2009 | 11:42 PM
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check the blend door in the cab, might be stuck open in the cool vent position.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2009 | 01:13 AM
  #8  
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lol g_k50 did you check your posts number? 666... you devil...
 
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Old Oct 1, 2009 | 10:04 AM
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I'll be twice as scared when it gets to 666,666.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2009 | 12:34 PM
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i would pull your tstat and install perhaps a 200* stat or just replace with a new 195* stat. i would also replace your clutchfan. when its that cold it shouldnt turn all that much.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2009 | 07:31 PM
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If the heater hoses are steaming hot, then your problem is in the blend door or ducting.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2009 | 07:55 PM
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A blocked heater core also comes to mind....
You may have an issue with your fan, but I believe it is unrelated to your heat issue.
 
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Old Oct 2, 2009 | 06:45 AM
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Disconnect heater hoses from the heater core. Lightly hold garden hose to core to test flow in both directions. You may be surprised at the crud coming out.
 
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