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6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

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Old Sep 25, 2009 | 03:20 PM
  #1  
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Need some advice

Hello. New member here. About three months ago I bought a '04 250 supercab Harley edition. Gorgeous truck. Previous owner used Diesel Kleen in every tank, performed all regular maintenance. About a month ago, luckily while under warranty, had to have the EGR valve replaced. Called the previous owner last week for a little more info, and he confessed that this is the truck's third EGR valve at 76,000, and that he had used a Bully Dog downloader. Am I doomed to EGR deletes, APR studs, and the whole nine yards? That's a lot of money I don't have. Would I be better off getting rid of it? Got a good deal on it, certainly won't lose any money on it. Also, the previous owner ran John Deere oil through it. I really don't want to go tracking that stuff down. What other brands do you guys recommend? Mobil delvac, Rotella, Pennzoil? Thanks in advance for any input.
 
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Old Sep 25, 2009 | 04:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Orange-N-Black
that he had used a Bully Dog downloader.
Speaking as a previous user of the Triple Dog downloader, it's not easy on the truck particularly the tranny. While I couldn't complain about the power it made, the tranny never did shift right especially on the higher settings.


Originally Posted by Orange-N-Black
Am I doomed to EGR deletes, APR studs, and the whole nine yards?
Are you for sure doomed? Might be. EGR issues can spill over to bigger issues, not saying that they have for sure for you right now, but it definitely is a possibility. Do you know what type of driving habits the PO had and your habits are as well? EGR issues can be mitigated if you drive it properly(not like older diesels), especially if you are going to be running a tuner on the truck.




Originally Posted by Orange-N-Black
Also, the previous owner ran John Deere oil through it.
To me(now this is just me) I just wouldn't use John Deere oil for a vehicle. My tractors that's a different story and I do use it for those. Just like using 2 stroke oil, it might work(or it might be a coincidence that it works), but mentally it just doesn't seem right to me.

Originally Posted by Orange-N-Black
I really don't want to go tracking that stuff down. What other brands do you guys recommend? Mobil delvac, Rotella, Pennzoil? Thanks in advance for any input.
I use Mobil 1 Synthetic. Going synthetic also helps with other issues that are prone to happen. Especially with the issue of turbo cooling, with synthetics you don't have to worry about that as much(if at all) as you would with regular dino oil.
 
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Old Sep 25, 2009 | 04:42 PM
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I can't help you out as far as the EGR;ect I use only Motorcraft Engine Oil 15W40. I get it at wal-mart about 13.00 per 5 Qt container. Ther are some site as far as filters; ect on line where I get all my stuff. I refuse to go to a Ford Dealer if I don't have to.. If you do a search in the Tech Folder you can learn alot as to EGR;ect I new here also and learning alot on this site. There are a lot of knowledgeable<style></style> guys here to help you!!!!
If you want some sites for filters let me know
Read First: 6.0L Diesel: ..................Tech Folder..............
 
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Old Sep 25, 2009 | 06:22 PM
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Don't know about the doomed thing, I was a little concerned about 6.0's [break downs and repairs] until I found this forum there are some guru's on here that can help you with anything you gan think of. As far as the oil goes the guru's told me to try rottela 5w-40w I did and it is great!!!!!!!
 
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Old Sep 25, 2009 | 06:33 PM
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Welcome to FTE Orange-N-Black Be sure to read through the Tech Folder located at the top of this forum for information pertaining to your engine.


John Deere Plus 50 meets and exceeds the ratings from Ford. I have used it before when trying different oils.

API (diesel): CI-4 Plus, CI-4, CH-4, CG-4, CF-4, CF
 
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Old Sep 25, 2009 | 06:34 PM
  #6  
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I don't know the API rating for john D. oil but a good CJ-4 syn. may do wonders for your EGR system where soot is concerned.
 
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Old Sep 26, 2009 | 08:50 AM
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Thanks for the greetings everyone. Tex25025, the previous owner had a logging business, I found out later. Lord knows what he towed with this thing and how he drove it. It has a hide-away gooseneck, and it looks like it had some use. Me, I drive about 12,000 miles a year, with about a 50-50 mix of city and highway driving. I usually drive 55-60 miles an hour, except on the interstate. But I'm rarely on the interstate. Every now and then I do rev it up to blow some soot out. I won't be towing for a couple of more years when I finally get my bass boat. I do haul frequently, stuff like loads of firewood, my mower, whatever I can get in the bed. Thanks again to everyone.
 
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Old Sep 26, 2009 | 09:13 AM
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With the trucks history of a tuner, I would ask the question: "Can you stand some downtime on your truck due to repairs?". Some people's job depends on the reliability of the truck. If a breakdown or two is tolerable AND it is running good now, then I say keep it. I would look at studs and EGR delete as potential future mods anyway. These can help you get 500k miles ouit of your 6.0L.

If I did not already have my 2006 truck (with what I know now about the 6.0L) I would be buying a used one. There are incredible deals on them out there. When you add $5k on for reliability mods - you get an incredible vehicle. If a $2k-$3k repair will break you financially, then I would consider selling it now.

Mobil 1 5W40 and Rotella T 5W40 would be my top recommendations for oil right now.

Here are my top 25 things for a new 6.0L owner.

<TABLE style="WIDTH: 635pt; BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse" border=0 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=847 x:str><COLGROUP><COL style="WIDTH: 635pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 30976" width=847><TBODY><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ff99cc; WIDTH: 635pt; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl25 height=17 width=847>New Owner TIPS: (Top 25)</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ff99cc; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl24 height=17>1. proper filters (Motorcraft, Racor, or International)</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ff99cc; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl24 height=17>2. proper fuel (get fuel from high volume stations)</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ff99cc; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl24 height=17>3. proper oil (highly recommend 5W40)</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ff99cc; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl24 height=17>4. proper coolant</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ff99cc; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl24 height=17>5. proper tranny fluid</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ff99cc; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl24 height=17>6. proper maintenance (fluid and filter change intervals)</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ff99cc; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl24 height=17>7. drain the water from the HFCM every oil change</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ff99cc; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl24 height=17>8. regular "pull and check" EGR valve for coking (and for wetness). maybe even do the same for your turbo.</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ff99cc; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl24 height=17>9. minimize idling</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ff99cc; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl24 height=17>10. drive EASY until the truck is fully warm</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ff99cc; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl24 height=17>11. occasionally "punch it and drive hard for a short while" after fully warm</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ff99cc; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl24 height=17>12. If you suspect your area may have marginal fuel quality (cetane) use a quality fuel additive (Stanadyne, Diesel Kleen)</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ff99cc; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl24 height=17>13. routine battery and alternator tests (MUST individually load test batteries). The electrical system checks are to catch issues BEFORE they ruin the FICM</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ff99cc; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl24 height=17>14. ccv re-route</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ff99cc; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl24 height=17>15. coolant filter</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ff99cc; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl24 height=17>16. gauges (boost, EGT, oil temp, oil pressure, fuel pressure)</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ff99cc; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl24 height=17>17. most recent flash upgrade</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ff99cc; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl24 height=17>18. 24 inch wiper blades</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ff99cc; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl24 height=17>19. security system and door lock upgrades - these trucks are easily stolen</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ff99cc; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl24 height=17>20. power steering fluid filter</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ff99cc; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl24 height=17>21. larger exhaust for lowering EGTs - especially if towing</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ff99cc; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl24 height=17>22. fuel supply upgrades</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ff99cc; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl24 height=17>23. read the forums and learn all you can about your truck and doing repairs yourself - you will save a lot of $$'s.</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ff99cc; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl24 height=17>24. find a mechanic that comes HIGHLY recommended. A good dealership mechanic is worth a fortune to you.</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ff99cc; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl24 height=17>25. be real picky about the type of tuner and the tunes you run (if you do run them).</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

And 26 just for extra value:

Read the Tech folder
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/3...ch-folder.html
and begin w/ this thread:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...-problems.html
 
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Old Sep 26, 2009 | 10:24 AM
  #9  
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Thanks, bismic. I can afford some downtime. It's my daily driver, but can always bum a truck from my dad. The $2-3k in repairs would be a bad thing for my bank account. I only paid about 18k for the truck, so I would have some room to work with on the truck's value. But shelling 2-3k out of pocket, all at once would be catastrophic.
 
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Old Sep 26, 2009 | 11:24 AM
  #10  
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Personally since the PO wasn't completely up front with you, I would do all the maint. items that can't be verified in writing so that you have a good starting point. The syn. oil will help with soot formation and coking in the turbo. Remember to use only Motorcraft/Racor filters(fluid) and Motorcraft/Donaldson air filters. Based on time, 5 years/105,000 mile, you are also due for a coolant flush. I do advise installing a coolant filter at the same time. If it has never been done, you are also way past due for a tranny flush. Every 30,000. Use only Mercon SP fluid and change the external filter after the flush.
 
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Old Sep 27, 2009 | 02:17 AM
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I don't anything about coolant filters. Can anyone recommend a brand and where I can get it? Also, who makes the best EGR delete?
 
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Old Sep 27, 2009 | 07:51 AM
  #12  
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http://www.dieselsite.com/index.asp?...ROD&ProdID=324 This is the one I have and I like it alot. I didn't get the shut-off valves but I would if I had to do it over. Some here have built their own from parts from Napa but I figured this kit was worth the $ b/c it's all there. Bob is a great guy to deal with, my kit was missing a "T" and I had to go to Lowes and get a temp plastic one until he sent me the right one. He sent a couple extra filters for the aggrivation, which I felt was very stand-uppish of him. Make sure to get the filters with NO SCA's, and get a couple extra as you will more than likely need to change the first one or two out in a short amount of time. My first filter had a good bit of crap that got filtered out so after seeing that I think it was well worth the time and money. Most here will tell you that this should be one of the first mods to do, it is that important! Good luck, and welcome to the best Ford truck website around
 
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Old Sep 29, 2009 | 08:45 AM
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Thanks for all of the advice guys. I am still not sure what I am going to do with my truck at this point, as I think I bought into some else's stupidity. But I must say this is the best owner's forum going. And I have owned trucks from all makes and checked all of the sites. You guys know your stuff and spend plenty of your own time to help others. I appreciate it.
 
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Old Sep 29, 2009 | 08:56 AM
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The more you understand the easier it is to maintain the truck. You bought a used truck and know more of what to look for, along with a great group of guys just in case a problem surfaces.
 
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Old Sep 29, 2009 | 12:57 PM
  #15  
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I wouldnt give up on it just yet. I think that with some help from us, maybe a little sweat equity from you we can get you through the issues...which may be very minor.

Just my .02

Sarge
 
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