Problem when IP hot....
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 91
Likes: 0
From: Ojai, Ca.
Problem when IP hot....
Good title huh? Now that I have your attention.... I've been a bit busy the past few weeks so I haven't put in any wrench time on my 93 F250 7.3 NA 4X4 auto. But few weeks back I diagnosed a heat soak IP failure in my naturally aspirated 7.3, with your help. Thanks again btw.
Since then I bought a rebuilt IP and the Ford service manuals and started the orientation process for my first major diesel repair. Now I have a few questions for you more experienced diesel junkies, so I don't F up my truck.....After reading the IP removal and installation section of the service manual, I see there are a few special tools. My first questions are about the need and possible alternatives for these tools...;
Wrenches: Are these necessary? or can I use or modify other tools?
1. Fuel Line Nut Wrench.
2. IP Mounting Wrench
3. IP Rotating Tool
Last set of tool questions are about the Fuel System Cap Set; Are there any DIY home brewed options that are safe and secure?
Thanks guys, I'm glad to be back, now let's get greasy.....
Since then I bought a rebuilt IP and the Ford service manuals and started the orientation process for my first major diesel repair. Now I have a few questions for you more experienced diesel junkies, so I don't F up my truck.....After reading the IP removal and installation section of the service manual, I see there are a few special tools. My first questions are about the need and possible alternatives for these tools...;
Wrenches: Are these necessary? or can I use or modify other tools?
1. Fuel Line Nut Wrench.
2. IP Mounting Wrench
3. IP Rotating Tool
Last set of tool questions are about the Fuel System Cap Set; Are there any DIY home brewed options that are safe and secure?
Thanks guys, I'm glad to be back, now let's get greasy.....
Junior User
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 74
Likes: 0
I am a newbie as well. I have re&re'd the IP with only basic tools. 5/8 open and flare wrenchs, as well as assorted flare and open wrenches. There is a 12 point socket needed, 5/16 maybe? Luckily it was in my socket set so I was good to go.
With the right tools I'm sure it's much easier. Especially if you want to remove or tighten injector lines at the IP while on the engine. I've done it, and it sucks, but can be done with regular wrenches.
The basic procedure is fairly easy (now that I've done it twice LOL)
Mind you I pay no mind to IP rotation, so that is something I should look into.
With the right tools I'm sure it's much easier. Especially if you want to remove or tighten injector lines at the IP while on the engine. I've done it, and it sucks, but can be done with regular wrenches.
The basic procedure is fairly easy (now that I've done it twice LOL)
Mind you I pay no mind to IP rotation, so that is something I should look into.
Junior User
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 74
Likes: 0
cap the injector lines? You mean to block them while removed? I used nothing, but took care to keep them out of the mud.
If you are worried and want to keep the injectors clean, I don't see why a bit of masking tape wouldn't do the job, or plastic wrap, or cut up plastic bag and little elastic bands or duct tape.
When reinstalling, i put a bit of anti-seize on the threads. A little lube will help get a good seat. I put a very small amount on the threads of injectors and at the IP. A little motor oil or other would work as well for seating, but I like anti-seize. Just be careful not to get it into the fuel system (not that I know it's bad, but better safe than sorry).
If you are worried and want to keep the injectors clean, I don't see why a bit of masking tape wouldn't do the job, or plastic wrap, or cut up plastic bag and little elastic bands or duct tape.
When reinstalling, i put a bit of anti-seize on the threads. A little lube will help get a good seat. I put a very small amount on the threads of injectors and at the IP. A little motor oil or other would work as well for seating, but I like anti-seize. Just be careful not to get it into the fuel system (not that I know it's bad, but better safe than sorry).
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 91
Likes: 0
From: Ojai, Ca.
Yeah, I'll be working outdoors under a tree for this job.... So I kinda want to cover my *** and avoid ANY preventable amateur mistakes......
I keep hearing Homer Simpson go Doh, over and over in my head.
And it's starting to freak me out.
I keep hearing Homer Simpson go Doh, over and over in my head.
And it's starting to freak me out.
cap the injector lines? You mean to block them while removed? I used nothing, but took care to keep them out of the mud.
If you are worried and want to keep the injectors clean, I don't see why a bit of masking tape wouldn't do the job, or plastic wrap, or cut up plastic bag and little elastic bands or duct tape.
When reinstalling, i put a bit of anti-seize on the threads. A little lube will help get a good seat. I put a very small amount on the threads of injectors and at the IP. A little motor oil or other would work as well for seating, but I like anti-seize. Just be careful not to get it into the fuel system (not that I know it's bad, but better safe than sorry).
If you are worried and want to keep the injectors clean, I don't see why a bit of masking tape wouldn't do the job, or plastic wrap, or cut up plastic bag and little elastic bands or duct tape.
When reinstalling, i put a bit of anti-seize on the threads. A little lube will help get a good seat. I put a very small amount on the threads of injectors and at the IP. A little motor oil or other would work as well for seating, but I like anti-seize. Just be careful not to get it into the fuel system (not that I know it's bad, but better safe than sorry).
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 7,782
Likes: 221
From: Huntington Indiana
Worst thing when working on the fuel system is "dust" . Any spec of dust in the final fuel system (hi pressure) will ruin the pump/injectors. If you can find a Chiltons book on the engine it helps a lot with how things will go.
