which transmission?
#1
#3
SROD in a PU will have a turret and internal rail. (Single Rail Over Drive)
Vans use the external linkage jobs, not sure where else they appeared.
You are correct about which ones you are likely to find.
Pics of the transmissions in question here, along with other id info for the BW boxes:
http://www.motivegear.com/tech_info/...nny_guide.html
That '86 should have a juice clutch and a weak firewall. Check for any parts you might could need in that department, and see if the factory firewall reinforcement is available too, if you have an '80s truck....
Vans use the external linkage jobs, not sure where else they appeared.
You are correct about which ones you are likely to find.
Pics of the transmissions in question here, along with other id info for the BW boxes:
http://www.motivegear.com/tech_info/...nny_guide.html
That '86 should have a juice clutch and a weak firewall. Check for any parts you might could need in that department, and see if the factory firewall reinforcement is available too, if you have an '80s truck....
#4
The manual truck I looked at tonight I think had the t18 based on comparing it with pictures online. Reverse was next to 4th gear and there was a PTO port on the passenger's side. I think it was also cast iron, but hard to tell based on a quick glance in the rain. Also, first gear was granny low and starting in second was much easier.
my truck is an 89 model. I have a c6 in it now but want a manual shift transmission. I do a lot of hauling and don't want a weak transmission. Is this an upgrade for me? I have a mildly upgraded 351 under the hood.
my truck is an 89 model. I have a c6 in it now but want a manual shift transmission. I do a lot of hauling and don't want a weak transmission. Is this an upgrade for me? I have a mildly upgraded 351 under the hood.
#5
As transmissions go, a C6 is just about as stout as it gets.
With a manual, you have other considerations when doing heavy hauling. Clutch quality is important. U-joints and axles take a beating if you aren't smooth with a manual.
The low first is good, but the torque converter in the automatic accomplishes nearly the same task in most applications.
So think about the work involved and the cost. If you have a good functioning C6 now, and replace it with a good functioning manual, you are really not gaining or losing much, just making a change.
With a manual, you have other considerations when doing heavy hauling. Clutch quality is important. U-joints and axles take a beating if you aren't smooth with a manual.
The low first is good, but the torque converter in the automatic accomplishes nearly the same task in most applications.
So think about the work involved and the cost. If you have a good functioning C6 now, and replace it with a good functioning manual, you are really not gaining or losing much, just making a change.
#6
yeah, I have been thinking about the amount of work involved. The cost isn't a concern since I'm getting the parts for almost free. I'd freshen up the transmission while it's out, so that's only $150 or so. The donor vehicle has an almost new clutch on it as well. The biggest investment I will have in this is time, which I don't have a lot of lately.
My current issue with my transmission is the heat it generates while pulling up hills. I have to slow down significantly to not let the c6 get too hot. I feel that the torque converter since it doesn't lock is robbing me of power and heating up the fluid. The manual transmission should eliminate that. The c6 has so far had enough grunt down low to get the load moving without issue.
I'm confused with this, if it was a zf 5 speed, I'd do the manual swap without question, but since it's the 3 speed with granny low... As stated, I'm not gaining much.
My current issue with my transmission is the heat it generates while pulling up hills. I have to slow down significantly to not let the c6 get too hot. I feel that the torque converter since it doesn't lock is robbing me of power and heating up the fluid. The manual transmission should eliminate that. The c6 has so far had enough grunt down low to get the load moving without issue.
I'm confused with this, if it was a zf 5 speed, I'd do the manual swap without question, but since it's the 3 speed with granny low... As stated, I'm not gaining much.
#7
Not sure about buying it here, but $100 gets you lunch, beer and one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C39C9A
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C39C9A
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#8
#9
Not sure about buying it here, but $100 gets you lunch, beer and one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C39C9A
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C39C9A
got one already. I am going to add a second one once I remove my AC. I'm also going to get a deep tranny pan to hold more fluid.
I think I'm going to stick with the c6, I'll still keep the parts for the manual swap so if the auto tranny dies, I'll do the swap. Thanks for the input
#10
86 f150's also had the tremec t170 rts 4speed 4th being overdrive. its a pretty good light duty aluminum transmission. i've put mine through hell this year and the gears, forks, seals and case are still in excellent condition. banging in out of gear because of a weak clutch mount hasnt been good on the synchronizer keys though.
its not a speedy tranni or an overly strong one either but with the overdrive i can squeaze about 22 mpg out of her. thats with a 4.9 I6 though. but when you into account she is a 4x4 with 33's i'd say thats pretty good milage. mid size small block like a 351 would probably net about 18 mpg max.
its not a speedy tranni or an overly strong one either but with the overdrive i can squeaze about 22 mpg out of her. thats with a 4.9 I6 though. but when you into account she is a 4x4 with 33's i'd say thats pretty good milage. mid size small block like a 351 would probably net about 18 mpg max.
#11
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04-21-2015 03:55 PM