I am looking at two engines to pick up as a new project.

I am planning:
WOP cryno'd forged rods
WOP Push Rods
Girdle
Head Studs
910 Comp Springs
Casserly Hybrids
GT42 or similar turbo

I have two engines around me and I am unsure of which is the best choice..

Engine 1: $500 99 Engine
Owner says low compression on #5 cylinder. Passes oil cap test (blowby)... Tested with a snap-on scanner saying "Low Compression Cylinder #5" Engine has everything with it. Flywheel, turbo, IC pipes.. everything cept starter. Injectors were buzz tested and passed. Owner says the engine will need a rebuild.

Engine #2: $500 2002 Engine
Injectors, turbo, intake spider, and fuel bowl is missing. The #3 cylinder has a miss. I am assuming that the cylinder miss is caused by the injectors or UVCH. So since I'm going new injectors and harness then this is not a problem.

Which engine would be the better choice?

I could offset the cost of engine number two by selling the turbo, intake and IC pipes.. but I would have to rebuild that engine.. But I could send the rods outta that engine and get them cryno'd which is cheaper than buying the cryno'd rods from WOP..

Anybody got some good info throw it out.

Thank guys

 

if your putting in new rods you will have to rebuild anyways...new rings ect.

 

I was 1/2 considering doing it the ziggy way and just pulling the pistons.. putting in rods and putting it back together

 

the crank needs to be balanced to the new rods.

 

Stroken is right. If I were going to do all that you plan to do, I would not let time or money be an issue. I would have the short block resurfaced, balanced and blueprinted. Do it right the first time Andrew.

 

I would go with number one,because its complete.That way more parts to sell off.

Like theses guys said balance it and do it right the first time.Andrew let me know when you tear one down I would like to see the insides,and I'm cheap labor also.

 

Sounds like a plan! I'm gonna pull the heads off and port and polish them.. should be a great experience.. Your more than welcome to come learn too

 

good deal. just an FYI. I know someone that built an engine and never had it balanced, since then he has ripped out 3 flex plates in a year. and he has a good bit of power...but that isnt why theyre breaking.

 

is the 99 an early 99 or late. something to think about.

 

If you're going big and building from the ground up, then get the 99. It's more comlete so you can get more money from selling the stock parts.

Jeron has a good point on the early to late 99. Could be a total different set of injectors, hpop, turbo, etc. Also the front cover on the E99's uses a different resevior gasket then the rest of the SD's. Got to be careful on that. Ask Greg (superdoodie) as he found out the hard way on that last year!

 

Good call guys! I will find out. The injectors will for certain be sent to casserly when I order hybrids.. and I know of a few guys the need the intake spyder and I'm sure I could move the turbo down the road really easy.

What does a typical rebuild run?

I wanna do the head myself just to learn.. but machine the block, balance, prob magnaflux the block to look for future problems..

Rebuild kit = $900??!

This build keeps looking more and more expensive.. the girlfriend's shiny things account may suffer

 

I'll add my 2 cents. Snap on scanners aren't exactly the most popular for DIY guys, and since a scanner plugs into the electronics and talks to your PCM, it doesn't have any way to know what the compression is.

This is a flag to me. Either you're being lied to and they know the compression is low for some other reason (possibly even some reason which would prevent a rebuild) or your dealing with an idiot who wants to sound like he knows what he's talking about (which might mean it's a contribution fault on #5 since the oil cap is ok, and a new injector makes it run like new)

 

Excellant point!

 

Well that would be frickin' sweet if it was just a injector issue.. any way of testing an engine that's on a pallet?!

 

Fail!!! Excellent.. not excellant..