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Well that would be frickin' sweet if it was just a injector issue.. any way of testing an engine that's on a pallet?!
Anything is possible, it's all about the degree of difficulty. Compression can be checked with the motor out of the truck the same way as it's in the truck. You need a compression gauge, adapter thing to fit the glow plug hole, and a way to turn the crankshaft with enough force to create the compression and not knock the motor over in the process.
Probably not something that would be easy to do for a $500 motor. Maybe rigging up an air compressor with a fitting that can thread into the glow plug hole to make sure there's not a crack in the block somewhere would be a simpler idea? Anyone have any suggestions?
This motor is not in the truck. I say it needs to be overhauled because it did have some blow by. I did the oil cap test and it did not make the cap fall of but when I put it on a computer (Snapon) it read low compression in the 5th cylinder. I have a buddy that went to school for diesel mechanics but he is still learning. He helped me put a different motor in. We did a buzz check on the injectors and they all checked out. The motor has everything but the starter and that is because the other motor I bought didn't have one on it. The compressors and everything in that area including the fan and serpentine belt. As well as the turbo. THis would make a good builder motor or parts motor I am in MO. Thank you for your time.
Now you guys got me all worried about the block condition.. I'm hoping it's an injector issue.. and not a low compression issue
either of the two engines come with a stock flex plate? I am looking for a spare to send out to get cryo'd incase my stock one would ever break, already have one cryod laying around
either of the two engines come with a stock flex plate? I am looking for a spare to send out to get cryo'd incase my stock one would ever break, already have one cryod laying around
dont worry about low compression issues. you need it for the BLOCK when you get it, havr it bored honed planned magnafluxed and possibly cryod if you have the time.
a set of forged cryod rods, mahle pistons (i would DEF cryo these), and a new set of rings.....pistons and ring being bough depends on how much the bore the block.
dont worry about low compression issues. you need it for the BLOCK when you get it, havr it bored honed planned magnafluxed and possibly cryod if you have the time.
a set of forged cryod rods, mahle pistons (i would DEF cryo these), and a new set of rings.....pistons and ring being bough depends on how much the bore the block.
Originally Posted by jkidd_39
alright.. got some more info on the 99 engine..
made in may of 98
single relay..
So i'm guessing it's an E99.5 engine.. dammit!
Still worth $500?
May of 98 is a early 99 engine, not a 99.5. It doesnt matter though, because with the things you are planning on doing all you need is the block anyway. Reread Kennys statement above. Do these things. Do not take shortcuts, do it right the first time so you wont have to do it again (at least not for trying to take shortcuts) If you really want to do this then the girlfriends "shiny thing account" has really just been shot to hell. tell her youll get billet intake plenums and they can be her shiny things for a while.
may of 98 is a early 99 engine, not a 99.5. It doesnt matter though, because with the things you are planning on doing all you need is the block anyway. Reread kennys statement above. Do these things. Do not take shortcuts, do it right the first time so you wont have to do it again (at least not for trying to take shortcuts) if you really want to do this then the girlfriends "shiny thing account" has really just been shot to hell. Tell her youll get billet intake plenums and they can be her shiny things for a while.
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