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The older I get, the more **** I am getting. On that note, I was curious on something. I am looking at adding a few accessories that I want controlled by the key only. I am tired of making the fuse box look like spaghetti by plugging in more wires into different terminals, while also risking overloading the circuit.
On that note, I was thinking, would there be any problem if I wired up a relay, had one terminal connected to the keyed power source, and then ran the wire from the battery to the relay, and then from the relay to a distribution block. From the distribution block, I could then run various keyed accessories, using the proper circuit protection and such for each.
Has anyone done this, or does anyone see a problem with this?
It sounds simple, but has eluded me for a long time, while under my dash gets more strewn with wires.
I think it's a great idea! I've never done it myself but it sounds doable; make sure you use
a relay rated for continuous use, not one intended only for momentary contact.
Thanks, I have never heard of anyone doing it, and was just wondering if there was a problem doing it. After about 20 years of working on cars, it FINALLY came to me.
Using a relay like that is a wise choice.I've been planning on doing this as well.when I worked in the electrical trade this is how we did it ,but we call them contactors not relays.
Yepper, my '82 LTD x-Police car came from Ford with a relay and 4 circuit fuse panel complete with screw terminals for adding switched accessories. Go for it, add the relay and make sure you protect the primary circuit with a fuse at the source too. This is timely a timely thread since I recently started drawing up the aux lighting circuits for my '86; I'm up to 6 relays and a hand full of diodes... Hit up the12volt.com for all the relay tech you could ever want!
Bernie, what exactly do you plan on running that warrants 6 relays? I have 220W of driving lights, 310W of rear/ditch floods, and 400W of overhead lights, and I only use four 40-amp relays for all that - even then, the draw through the driving lights relay is about 20 amps, the draw through each of the two overheads relays is even less, only my floods relay is working a bit harder at 25 amps. Through in the factory lights and I'm already over 1kW total, this means the 130-amp alternator must run at nearly full throttle to keep up with the electrical demand... so much for the 70% duty cycle, lol. Also, the fact that you need diodes suggest to me that you plan on connecting the different groups of lights to each other - I tried that too, and after running several different combinations for about a year I decided that the best way to wire it up is to have a separate switch for each lights group, my only "automatic" lights are the ditch/rear floods that serve as backup lights too and are therefore also triggered by the MLPS on the trans.
Well, I know it sounds excessive but I want everything to function automatically as well as manually with individual switches. My ’85 has individual switches (SPST) and no “auto” function; I just get tired of turning them all on and then off and on… for each on-coming car.
I’m also including a shifter mounted "Panic" switch to trigger the High-beams/Driving lights and Rock lights. I do a lot of late night/early morning driving on Delaware's eastern shore and could really use this functionality during the deer rut season My aux lighting is all relatively low Wattage (55W ea) lamps. I'm 95% done with the schematic.
Goals:
Minimal additional current draw on existing circuits (not including the charging system)
Driving lights 55W - On/Off/Auto with High-beams/Panic-On
Fog lights 55W- On/Off/Auto with Low-beams
Rock/ditch lights 55W - On/Off/Auto with curtsey lamps/Panic-On
High-Beam headlamp - RY added as "brightener"/Panic-On
Low-Beam headlamp - RY added as "brightener"
Aux back-up 55W- On/Off/Auto with back-up lamp circuit
Cargo lamp in cap On/Off/Auto with curtsey lamps
Bi-color LED on switch panel to indicate circuit/switch state