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Adding to Keyed Power

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Old Sep 23, 2009 | 11:34 PM
  #1  
bghnkinf250's Avatar
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Adding to Keyed Power

The older I get, the more **** I am getting. On that note, I was curious on something. I am looking at adding a few accessories that I want controlled by the key only. I am tired of making the fuse box look like spaghetti by plugging in more wires into different terminals, while also risking overloading the circuit.

On that note, I was thinking, would there be any problem if I wired up a relay, had one terminal connected to the keyed power source, and then ran the wire from the battery to the relay, and then from the relay to a distribution block. From the distribution block, I could then run various keyed accessories, using the proper circuit protection and such for each.

Has anyone done this, or does anyone see a problem with this?

It sounds simple, but has eluded me for a long time, while under my dash gets more strewn with wires.

Ideas and suggestions are welcome.

Thanks,

Nick
 
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Old Sep 24, 2009 | 07:46 AM
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I think it's a great idea! I've never done it myself but it sounds doable; make sure you use
a relay rated for continuous use, not one intended only for momentary contact.
 
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Old Sep 24, 2009 | 09:52 AM
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Thanks, I have never heard of anyone doing it, and was just wondering if there was a problem doing it. After about 20 years of working on cars, it FINALLY came to me.
 
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Old Sep 24, 2009 | 10:02 AM
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When I stripped out My Old Ford (My Mule) I took the fuse panel and the entire old harness.

I'm thinking of wiring this fuse panes into my NEW Ford ... kinda like you would add a "Sub Panel" to electrical panel of a house.

That way all I would have to pull is an additional Battery Hot (I'd add the line from the solenoid) and an additional Keyed Hot.

AS I looked my extra panel over ... I saw how easy it was to remove or add connectors

This would allow me all the additional fused circuits I would ever need ... with out having to wire in a relay.

I've been thinking of installing it in that shallow area in the left side of the glove box for easy access.
 
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Old Sep 24, 2009 | 11:23 AM
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I like that idea too, I just figured it might be easiest if I did this in terms of ease of simplicity.
 
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Old Sep 24, 2009 | 12:51 PM
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Ford even did this type of thing with accessory safety relays.

Run the hot wire of of the starter solenoid lug battery side.

Run a keyed source wire from the radio circut. Yellow/Black hash.

And then run your accessories off of the safety relay.

In this way, the keyed source wire only powers the relay. The actual hot wire from the battery controls the accessory.
 
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Old Sep 24, 2009 | 02:43 PM
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I was actually wanting to do this same exact thing!

81-F150, which vehicles did these safety relays come on? And do you know which amperages they're available in?
 
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Old Sep 24, 2009 | 06:52 PM
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From: patricia ab canada
Using a relay like that is a wise choice.I've been planning on doing this as well.when I worked in the electrical trade this is how we did it ,but we call them contactors not relays.
 
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Old Sep 24, 2009 | 10:05 PM
  #9  
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Hopefully, I will get a chance to put in my "contactor" tomorrow!
 
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Old Sep 24, 2009 | 10:28 PM
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Yepper, my '82 LTD x-Police car came from Ford with a relay and 4 circuit fuse panel complete with screw terminals for adding switched accessories. Go for it, add the relay and make sure you protect the primary circuit with a fuse at the source too. This is timely a timely thread since I recently started drawing up the aux lighting circuits for my '86; I'm up to 6 relays and a hand full of diodes... Hit up the12volt.com for all the relay tech you could ever want!
 
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Old Sep 25, 2009 | 12:14 AM
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Bernie, what exactly do you plan on running that warrants 6 relays? I have 220W of driving lights, 310W of rear/ditch floods, and 400W of overhead lights, and I only use four 40-amp relays for all that - even then, the draw through the driving lights relay is about 20 amps, the draw through each of the two overheads relays is even less, only my floods relay is working a bit harder at 25 amps. Through in the factory lights and I'm already over 1kW total, this means the 130-amp alternator must run at nearly full throttle to keep up with the electrical demand... so much for the 70% duty cycle, lol. Also, the fact that you need diodes suggest to me that you plan on connecting the different groups of lights to each other - I tried that too, and after running several different combinations for about a year I decided that the best way to wire it up is to have a separate switch for each lights group, my only "automatic" lights are the ditch/rear floods that serve as backup lights too and are therefore also triggered by the MLPS on the trans.
 
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Old Sep 25, 2009 | 09:06 AM
  #12  
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Well, I know it sounds excessive but I want everything to function automatically as well as manually with individual switches. My ’85 has individual switches (SPST) and no “auto” function; I just get tired of turning them all on and then off and on… for each on-coming car.
I’m also including a shifter mounted "Panic" switch to trigger the High-beams/Driving lights and Rock lights. I do a lot of late night/early morning driving on Delaware's eastern shore and could really use this functionality during the deer rut season My aux lighting is all relatively low Wattage (55W ea) lamps. I'm 95% done with the schematic.

Goals:
  • Minimal additional current draw on existing circuits (not including the charging system)
  • Driving lights 55W - On/Off/Auto with High-beams/Panic-On
  • Fog lights 55W- On/Off/Auto with Low-beams
  • Rock/ditch lights 55W - On/Off/Auto with curtsey lamps/Panic-On
  • High-Beam headlamp - RY added as "brightener"/Panic-On
  • Low-Beam headlamp - RY added as "brightener"
  • Aux back-up 55W- On/Off/Auto with back-up lamp circuit
  • Cargo lamp in cap On/Off/Auto with curtsey lamps
  • Bi-color LED on switch panel to indicate circuit/switch state
 
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Old Sep 25, 2009 | 10:17 AM
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For the panic switch, I would probably use a 2 speed rear end switch that mounts to the shifter.
 
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Old Sep 25, 2009 | 10:36 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by bghnkinf250
For the panic switch, I would probably use a 2 speed rear end switch that mounts to the shifter.
That would look cool! I was thinking a Hurst T-handle with momentary switch installed. I tend to drive with my right hand on the shifter...
 
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Old Sep 25, 2009 | 10:50 AM
  #15  
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Keep the hand off the shifter. That accelerates wear on the shift forks on the trans. I have seen it a lot.
 
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