Mirror Heat Amp Draw
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 11,798
Likes: 14
From: Mt. Shasta California
Anthing with a resistor (electric heat) or motor is going to draw more juice than let's say; lights. It will take 1 of your bigger fuses and wires. Don't forget, if you are just adding or changing things going bigger on your wires has no ill effects but the fuse should be in the ballpark. Going with a light fuse can only cause a possible fuse failure. So; big wire+light fuse=mamimum protection. You could always start with a lighter fuse if in doubt.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 5,372
Likes: 108
From: Northern Indiana
I am only asking because my uncle is helping me make a custom wiring harness to wire in my driving lights, back up lights, mirror heat, strobes, and aux. power outlets. I need to get all my amp draws and length of wire so we can get it going. Thanks guys..
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 823
Likes: 5
From: Dallas, Oregon
I used 18 gauge wire and it seems to work fine. You could easily go to 16 gauge, but I don't think anything heavier than that is necessary.
NAPA has a small wiring catalog (wire and connectors) that has a table with recommended wire sizes based on current draw and distance.
NAPA has a small wiring catalog (wire and connectors) that has a table with recommended wire sizes based on current draw and distance.
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More Turbo
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 713
Likes: 5
From: Minneapolis, MN
As far as current draw, I've heard 4 amps each, but not sure where I heard that. Next time I have my dash pulled off (soon, as I need to install another switch for lights), I'll pop the multi-meter on in place of the switch and see how many amps they pull...
Junior User
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 82
Likes: 0
There isn't a way to "turn it up", the heater grid does the work and it's either on or off. My assumption would be the heater grid isn't as dense or powerful in your 06 as in your 04, and they probably did that due to them getting too hot and cracking mirrors or burning out prematurely. Doesn't help that they're on all the time unless you install a switch like I did...
As far as current draw, I've heard 4 amps each, but not sure where I heard that. Next time I have my dash pulled off (soon, as I need to install another switch for lights), I'll pop the multi-meter on in place of the switch and see how many amps they pull...
As far as current draw, I've heard 4 amps each, but not sure where I heard that. Next time I have my dash pulled off (soon, as I need to install another switch for lights), I'll pop the multi-meter on in place of the switch and see how many amps they pull...
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,464
Likes: 103
From: Staten Island, NY
The other way is to also use a blown fuse in #39 but use two taps - one on either side of the fuse. Wire from one side, thru a seperate 15 amp fuse to a switch and then back to the other side of the fuse.
I used the first method. To return either method to stock just remove the bad fuse and replace with a good one.
More Turbo
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 713
Likes: 5
From: Minneapolis, MN
No offense pupnduck, but that sounds tacky, putting in a blown fuse and running those fuse tap things. For the extra time it takes to undo four bolts and pull the fuse box down, it's worth it.
More Turbo
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 713
Likes: 5
From: Minneapolis, MN
Here ya go... Whew, what a search... All the way back to 06... 
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...ml#post3375758
Green wire with Purple tracer, in the 12 pin connector, directly behind fuse #39. You can just remove the fuse and connect the upfitter switch (for which the wire ends are right there anyway) into that wire with a simple wire tap. Very very simple.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...ml#post3375758
Green wire with Purple tracer, in the 12 pin connector, directly behind fuse #39. You can just remove the fuse and connect the upfitter switch (for which the wire ends are right there anyway) into that wire with a simple wire tap. Very very simple.