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Old Apr 12, 2010 | 05:48 PM
  #16  
AutoAppearancesInc's Avatar
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Been a while

If i don't get this van out of the Garage soon, I will e living in it!!

I just bought the Master Cylinder bleed kit (Tubes and connectors)

Now the question I have is:

Are all ports on the MC output? Do I bleed all three?

Think I only have two connectors that fit the MC..

Thanks
 
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Old Apr 13, 2010 | 03:53 PM
  #17  
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You should bleed all the output ports. Are you sure one of the ports (the front one) isn't for the shuttle valve switch?
 
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Old Apr 13, 2010 | 08:56 PM
  #18  
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Is it the top one Black Plastic??

I took pictures but can not post them for some reason..

Thanks
 
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Old Apr 13, 2010 | 09:13 PM
  #19  
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Sorry, I don't remember, and I'm not near my van, so I can't verify. Also, there were at least 2 different versions of the MC, so the location of the shuttle valve switch can be different. Can you check your old MC?
 
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Old Apr 13, 2010 | 09:55 PM
  #20  
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I am trying to bleed the old one.
I too am not in front of the van
Hope I do not need a new one!!
Could not believe how expensive the new one is!!
 
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Old Apr 19, 2010 | 09:52 PM
  #21  
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Ok... I bled the old MC!!! Hooray!!

A little background here: I took the MC off to replace the Power booster.

Reinstalled the MC...


Now for my question:

I need to bleed the brakes... How should the pedal feel?
I have pumped it slowly and it just does not feel like nothing is building up.

Thanks in adavnce
 
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Old Apr 20, 2010 | 01:50 PM
  #22  
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As long as you have the bleed screws open, it will not pump up. You need to watch the old fluid come out and wait for it to become clean, while someone is pumping the pedal. Then you close the bleed screw on a pedal stroke. You should then feel an immediate build-up. Or follow this brake bleed tread:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...ried-this.html
 
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Old Apr 20, 2010 | 03:04 PM
  #23  
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xlt4wd90:

Thanks for the info..
I like the idea of gravity bleeding...
 
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Old Apr 27, 2010 | 10:03 PM
  #24  
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Update:

I never did buy the sprayer and make the bleeder.. sorry

Help!!! i am at a lose here... I tried bleeding the rear left brake. Got some fluid coming out, but not streaming out.

Then I decided to gravity bleed the brakes. Got fluid coming out of the front brakes, but nothing out the rear.

Brake pedal still goes to the floor.. AM I doing something wrong here

Wondering if the MC went bad????
Why is a MC for a van that is 20 years old so darn expensive????
 
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Old Apr 27, 2010 | 11:12 PM
  #25  
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Gravity bleed the lines near the MC. Then start at the left front, Right Front, Left Rear then right rear. Make sure the MC to block lines are bleed first are you will never get a hard pedal.
 
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Old Apr 28, 2010 | 05:14 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by AutoAppearancesInc
Update:

I never did buy the sprayer and make the bleeder.. sorry

Help!!! i am at a lose here... I tried bleeding the rear left brake. Got some fluid coming out, but not streaming out.

Then I decided to gravity bleed the brakes. Got fluid coming out of the front brakes, but nothing out the rear.

Brake pedal still goes to the floor.. AM I doing something wrong here

Wondering if the MC went bad????
Why is a MC for a van that is 20 years old so darn expensive????
Take out the bleed screws & clean the ball check valve, most probably blocked / stuck after 20 years!
 
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Old Apr 28, 2010 | 05:42 AM
  #27  
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Thanks.. I just love it when someone points out something so simple!!!

I will look into that... Thanks so much..
 
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Old Apr 28, 2010 | 02:14 PM
  #28  
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20 years? If you live in a climate with salty winters, it could take just 1 year for the bleed hole to get clogged. In my case, I got no fluid coming out after removing the plug, so I had an assistant push on the brake pedal. Then POP! something shot out of the bleed hole, and fluid gushed out. This was on a 1 year old Olsmobile in Detroit.
 
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Old Apr 28, 2010 | 03:02 PM
  #29  
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the rear wheel brake cylinders on these Aeros are water sponge magnets. bleed screw holes plug from rust/water/junk/slime. bleed screws rust in solid. pistons seize.
and I don't live in a salted road area. only been on the beach less than a dozen times.

have had to replace the rear wheel brake cylinders 3 times. good rear brakes after the work and the RABSII works well. have evidence of that, had to dynamite all 4 axles towing the trailer twice. stopped quickly in a straight line with no rear van axle lockup. once from 50 miles an hour towing.
how can an idiot not see a van and travel trailer coming when he pulls out on hwy?

original OEM factory master cylinder. i flush the system every 2>4 years.
best brakes on a mid size rig i've ever drove. Rangers are dangerous braking, no weight in back end
 
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Old Apr 28, 2010 | 08:32 PM
  #30  
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Sometimes they come out in front of you even when they DO see you. I flat-sided some tires more than once while panic-stopping for idiots doing things like that.

Something must be wrong with the brakes on my 1990 4wd; I could never get them to stop hard. This is with 3 different types of pads and rotors. I suspect there is still air in there somewhere. I'm wondering if there is a special procedure to bleed the system to get air out of the high spots?

One one of my bicycles, I set it up so the master cylinder is up high, and the rear caliper hangs low. I do a reverse flush by attaching a catch tank to the MC, and pump fluid in from the caliper upward. I can tell that I push almost all the air out this way because the brakes fill rock solid after this. I'm not sure if this will work on the Aero.
 
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