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Sorry, I don't remember, and I'm not near my van, so I can't verify. Also, there were at least 2 different versions of the MC, so the location of the shuttle valve switch can be different. Can you check your old MC?
As long as you have the bleed screws open, it will not pump up. You need to watch the old fluid come out and wait for it to become clean, while someone is pumping the pedal. Then you close the bleed screw on a pedal stroke. You should then feel an immediate build-up. Or follow this brake bleed tread:
Gravity bleed the lines near the MC. Then start at the left front, Right Front, Left Rear then right rear. Make sure the MC to block lines are bleed first are you will never get a hard pedal.
20 years? If you live in a climate with salty winters, it could take just 1 year for the bleed hole to get clogged. In my case, I got no fluid coming out after removing the plug, so I had an assistant push on the brake pedal. Then POP! something shot out of the bleed hole, and fluid gushed out. This was on a 1 year old Olsmobile in Detroit.
the rear wheel brake cylinders on these Aeros are water sponge magnets. bleed screw holes plug from rust/water/junk/slime. bleed screws rust in solid. pistons seize.
and I don't live in a salted road area. only been on the beach less than a dozen times.
have had to replace the rear wheel brake cylinders 3 times. good rear brakes after the work and the RABSII works well. have evidence of that, had to dynamite all 4 axles towing the trailer twice. stopped quickly in a straight line with no rear van axle lockup. once from 50 miles an hour towing.
how can an idiot not see a van and travel trailer coming when he pulls out on hwy?
original OEM factory master cylinder. i flush the system every 2>4 years.
best brakes on a mid size rig i've ever drove. Rangers are dangerous braking, no weight in back end
Sometimes they come out in front of you even when they DO see you. I flat-sided some tires more than once while panic-stopping for idiots doing things like that.
Something must be wrong with the brakes on my 1990 4wd; I could never get them to stop hard. This is with 3 different types of pads and rotors. I suspect there is still air in there somewhere. I'm wondering if there is a special procedure to bleed the system to get air out of the high spots?
One one of my bicycles, I set it up so the master cylinder is up high, and the rear caliper hangs low. I do a reverse flush by attaching a catch tank to the MC, and pump fluid in from the caliper upward. I can tell that I push almost all the air out this way because the brakes fill rock solid after this. I'm not sure if this will work on the Aero.
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