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good idea for a complete flushing...saves lots of steps
I've had good luck flushing and bleeding the Aero by myself....start by sucking out old fluid from MC with turkey baster and flush/bleed MC first from outlet fitting...then the proportioning valve, both end fittings...next are lines/brakes...Ford service manual for Aero RABS says RR first...neoprene line on bleeder **** into clear bottle container...pump until clear BF out into bottle...Ford sequence RR, LF, LR, RF...remove bleeder completely...clean end of bleeder-corrosion and put a light coating of silicone dielectric grease on threads only...do not overtighten bleeder when done...just snug
Krank, easy to do and good results even by one person...no more RABS problems/lighs and best brakes I've had since new...
I had no success and could not clear the RABS light even after cleaning the prop. valve switch until I found and followed Ford's mandatory flush/bleed wheel sequence
The problem with bleeding the ABS is only on full ABS systems such as the Explorer. For those, you need to "energize" the ABS valve, whatever that means. But to quote the service manual for the Aerostar: "It is not necessary to energize the RABS system electrically to bleed the rear brakes." So we are home free, I guess
About the pressure bleeder, I found out that they can be purchased now for about $50. But you can make one yourself for less than $20. Your choice I like tinkering, so I'll make one myself.
I thought the whole idea was to remove the Air from the braking system? When you pump-up the sprayer you're going to be introducing Air into the system. Not something I'd want to trust my live with.
The fluid to the Master Cylinder is supplied from the bottom of the plastic bottle, so that's just bake fluid that'll be fed to the M/C under 10-15 psi. You are pumping air into the plastic bottle, not the M/C. Remember, the 1 gallon bottle is half filled with brake fluid to begin with, not empty.
But air IS mixed into the fluid when you pump it up. Since Air fills the empty space in the bottle it is introduced in with the fluid.
Jay
Jay:
The pump sits above the fluid in the bottle. It's hard to explain, you just have to see the bottle yourself to convince yourself that it'll work. Just go to a hardware store and look.
The way I bleed brakes is to pump them up and bleed them until I get a decent pedal and the I crack all 4 bleeders open to the point that they are just dripping a drop at a time. Keep the master cylinder full during the process and after about a half hour you will have the firmest pedal you have ever had. Called gravity bleeding. Learned this with my 79 covette with 4 pistons per caliper. Only way to get a good pedal on a vette and it works for all vehicles.
Jay,
There is a pickup tube in the sprayer that reaches almost to the bottom of the tank. Air pressure in the tank just forces fluid up the tube. No air gets mixed with the fluid. I use the same sprayer to apply insect repellent on our horses - works well. Maybe I'll convert it to this gizmo during the winter months.
Well all I know is that my water pressure tank works alot the same way. I just had to go through a what they call a Water logged tank. It happens because the Air and water mixes together.
I'm sure the bleeder would work but over a few days or weeks all the air in the fluid will collect in one place and the your brakes would become spongey or no brakes.
How I would do it is make the master Cyl cap with the hose and hook it to a 2 liter bottle with a hole in the bottom. Hang it up like an IV and pour a bottle of brake fluid in it. Then bleed the brakes.
My brother in law bled the brakes on our Aero and he had it on a jackstand and cracked open all of the bleeders and let gravity take over with new fluid in the resevoir. Worked like a charm. He said with our Aero, didn't need to worry about the ABS (He does brakes and suspension work ASE Certified) he did the usual sucked all of the old fluid out of the resevoir with a turkey baster and put new brakes on her and did the bleed as described. The brakes put us through the windshield and haven't warped the rotors yet.
Really cool idea. When we (our family) had a big truck (volvo f10) I used its air brake compressor. But I could not imagine using of garden sprayer...!
I bought the sprayer bottle from Lowes for $10. With all other hardwares and taxes, it came to about $15. I hope it works
Haven't tried that, but I suspect I will be making one of those for the next time I do the Aerostar brakes. I had a similar thing with the break cylinder cap, tubing, and a 2-liter for doing the non-RABS, non-power brakes on my VWs, and it worked perfectly, even though it was just gravity feed. I hung it up like an IV in the trunk of the bug, or on the steering wheel in the type 2 (microbus).
Trying to bleed my Aerostar about wore me out with all the crawling under and crawling back out to add fluid a hundred times. I'm getting too old for this.
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