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Refreshing a 93 F250?

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Old Sep 21, 2009 | 10:35 AM
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Refreshing a 93 F250?

I want to do some maintenance to my new F250 to get it running tip top. What do you guys suggest? I was figuring on refurbishing the fuel system (new lines/filter) but what else can I do?

The truck has had a hard time cold starting so I just went ahead and replaced ALL the glow plugs. I know, big $$ for not much if they all work but I actually found 2 out of 8 unplugged! Now when the truck is warm, it'll start on the first crank. But it still takes forever when its cold.
 
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Old Sep 21, 2009 | 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by protomor
I want to do some maintenance to my new F250 to get it running tip top. What do you guys suggest? I was figuring on refurbishing the fuel system (new lines/filter) but what else can I do?

The truck has had a hard time cold starting so I just went ahead and replaced ALL the glow plugs. I know, big $$ for not much if they all work but I actually found 2 out of 8 unplugged! Now when the truck is warm, it'll start on the first crank. But it still takes forever when its cold.
I got the same problem with the cold starts and still don know what it is. As for tip top running fill the new fuel filter with seafoam fuel additive and then pour another can into the old oil drive it for 15 minutes then change the oil you have no idea how much smoother your truck will run .. I picked up about 5 mpg running it through the fuel system btw
 
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Old Sep 21, 2009 | 01:51 PM
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I ordered a fuel injector resealing kit. O rings and all that jazz. I hear the caps leak air sometimes and makes starting hard.
 
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Old Sep 21, 2009 | 04:44 PM
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yeah i just replaced mine a couple days ago the hardest part is cutting the old o rings off
 
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Old Sep 22, 2009 | 08:52 PM
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protomor,
Welcome to FTE and the IDI diesel forum.

How long does the wait to start light come on for when the engine is cold?
Do you see the volt meter drop for about 10 seconds when you first turn the key on?
 
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Old Sep 22, 2009 | 10:51 PM
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I never paid attention to the volt meter dropping when the car first starts...

wait to start stays on for over 10 seconds now. used to stay on for like 4
 
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Old Sep 23, 2009 | 06:37 AM
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my 88 was the same way. instant hot start, forever cold start, even with new glow plugs.

it was a bad starter. i put a new starter in, and it now whacks rite off even after sitting 3 months.
 
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Old Sep 23, 2009 | 07:18 AM
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mm... how much is THAT going to run me and how much of a pain is it to replace?
 
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Old Sep 23, 2009 | 09:07 AM
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i got mine from these guys

http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-Ford-Truck-6...d=p3286.c0.m14


i bought it 2 years ago, when i thought the starter was shot.
then i found out it was actually the positive power cable was bad.

but i still had cold start problems. it turned out the starter was OK, but drew too muck current to let everything work properly.
i did not find it out till the starter shorted out a year later, leaving me stranded on the road.
i put the new starter in, and realized how slow the old one was actually turning the engine over
as for ease of installation, it was not that bad. a pain in the butt, but easier than putting in the new positive battery cable..
 
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Old Sep 23, 2009 | 11:17 AM
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a 3/8" air ratchet and a 6" wobble extention make that top bolt know who the boss is!

starter isnt too bad of a job though. maybe 30 min if you take your time.
 
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Old Sep 23, 2009 | 09:27 PM
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Some of the original Nippondenso starters would have laughed at that air rachet and 6" wobble stick.

The only way to get that top bolt out was with a wrench, and if you wanted more than 1/8th turn at a time it had to be a stubby on top of that.
 
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Old Sep 24, 2009 | 07:16 AM
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so other people think it could be the starter too? Maybe the wires are just old...
 
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Old Sep 24, 2009 | 08:53 PM
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Check the insulation on the battery cable on both sides of the passenger side positive terminal.
Corrosion inside the terminal where the wires connect to the terminal is common on old cables.
When the corrosion gets bad enough, the terminal starts getting hot while trying to start the engine, and the insulation will become discolored and brittle.
The passenger side battery positive cable clamp is where all the electrical draw and charging load is connected, so a problem there affects everything.

Glow plugs draw 200 amps while heating, then the starter draws 300 amps while cranking.
So it is very important for all battery connections to be in excellent shape for the engine to start well.
Bad cables and bad connections on the cables will shorten the life of a starter.

As winter is getting closer, time to check the cables, batteries and glow plugs if you expect to have a reliable truck this winter.
 
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Old Sep 28, 2009 | 09:36 AM
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how can I just replace the wires? I find ends at my local auto store but I have no idea how to hook them up to the wires so they won't come out and make good contact.

My truck still takes about 2 minutes of cranking before it starts. The starters seems to have good speed at it. The truck doesn't try to start at all though. I just crank and crank then all of a sudden its alive and kicking. I think its a fuel issue. Is the fuel pump dying? or do I have a leak somewhere?
 
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Old Sep 28, 2009 | 05:26 PM
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Ok so answer was *drum roll* weeping fuel feed line to the pump. Anyone know the diameter of that line? Why oh why did ford run the fuel lines by the headers? that sounds like a disaster in the making.
 
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