I do happen to have Customcab's instructions for replacing the door window parts. However, when it is said to put the division bar in at 45 degrees is that towards the front or back. Second, since it is put in at 180 degrees to normal to clear those two mounting brackets is one then supposed to twist it back 180 for the right position. This part here is critical since with the door freshly painted and the division bar reluctant to just twist 180 given that it is rectangular in shape and wants to scrap the new paint where the window felts eventually go. Everything else isn't a problem since none of them involve rubbing up against new paint.

One other thing I noted. A NOS vent window seal fits so much better that the Dennis Carpenter seal. His seal, besides being too long is critically off 3/8" between the hole for the lower pivot and the narrowed part of the seal near the top to fit the frame as it narrows in the upper pivot area. As for the doors I happened to have NOS seals so they just dropped right in place.

 

That is unusual to hear about Dennis Carpenter. Their rubber for so long was made with Ford specks.




John

 

As original, there was no separate felt type weatherstrip available for the division bar, it was only sold with the division bar itself.

Autoglass shops carry the felt weatherstrip...it comes in a length of about 6 feet, so it's cut to fit.

These same shops also carry the "cat whiskers" aka the belt weatherstrips, what some of y'all refer to as an anti-rattle kit.
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A few dealers still have the original Gen-U-ine Ford vent window weatherstrips. A local dealer that went out of business recently had a whole bunch of them.

Since they were obsolete, the dealer was gonna throw them in the trash.

I bought them all for next to nothing, gave some of them to garbz2....since I have 20 of these (10 rights and lefts) that I bought back in the 1980's.

 

Of course while the info on parts and parts numbers is nice none of it tells me how to slide the division bar back in without damaging new paint. Getting out wasn't an issue because the paint was going and so when it held up a little bit I just pulled.

Yes, my passenger vent seal fits absolutely perfect while the DC doesn't on the drivers side. Being slightly off and about 1 inch too long I guess I'll have to trim it since once in the door no one in their right mind is going to take it out later just to put another seal in.

 

Maybe i can help clarify my writing for you Mike.
Install the division bar at a 45 degree angle thru the access panel; slant it toward the upper (A) post; have the upper portion of the division bar slanted higher & facing toward the vent window area. Turned the division bar 180 degrees opposite the way it mounts; (turn the lower mounting bracket that bolts to the regulator towards the outside door skin panel ( that's 180 degrees from installation) this will allow you to place it thru the access panel, and clear the opening and slide it inside the opening. You can angle it anyway you want while sliding it thru the access panel; But the way I mention will place the bracket towards the access hole opening and prevent from touching the door panel area. You can prolly have it turn away from the panel and start installing the division bar and once you come close to the door access panel opening rotate it outwards ( the mounting bracket 180*) towards the outer door skin.
Once inside you can rotate it back to face the inner door panel skin; so later on you can mount it in place.

I assume you have the window regulator removed? This will allow more clearance. And yes the division bar is a pita to installed and keep from scratching paint.

keep in mine I havn't done this since 2005 on a Slick and only recently did it on a dentside. There completely different installation; Also I'm old & slow...

hope this helps.


Mitch

 

Well, second time was a charm. Didn't even have to turn 180 as they went right in with my hand in the front corner helping direct. Only interesting thing now is that one of the two screws in the A pillar to retain the vent window doesn't reach the frame now. Looks like a hardware stop for a slightly longer 8-32 screw.