Truck shuts off when key is released.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 5,489
Likes: 13
From: Kuna ID
Truck shuts off when key is released.
Still working on my 86. Right now it will start and run as long as I hold the key in the the start position. As soon as I let go it shuts off. This obviously isn't good for the starter as I can hear it still spinning to keep up with the motor. What should I check out?
Junior User
Joined: Sep 2009
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Sounds to me like your ignition switch is bad or loose. This happened to me a few years back. Good news is depending on your parts store this is less than a $20 fix (if you have to replace it). They are also pretty easy to install.
Josh
Josh
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,971
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Mine started doing the same, the Folks at Autozone recommended I change it, low and behold, 24 dollars later, it's all working just fine!
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Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 5,489
Likes: 13
From: Kuna ID
Well I just replaced it a while ago before I had it running. The PO said it needed changed. Of course it didn't help the original problem. I will try adjusting it and maybe throw the old one back on just in case it wasn't bad.
Senior User
Joined: May 2007
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From: Arkoma,Oklahoma
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Northern California
Sounds like the Coil ballast Resistor.
Check the Red/Lt. Green wire at the ignition switch with the truck in run. If you still have power there, but not at the coil, the ballast resistor wire is suspect. Find it in the main harness between the ignition switch, and coil. It will have two black barrel splices on it, very simular to what is on the fuseable links where the regular wire changes to the resistor wire. The resistor wire will have written on it.... Resistor wire Do not cut or splice. Check both ends of the resistor wire for power in the run position. If one end has power but the other doesn't. replace the Ballast Resistor wire.
Check the Red/Lt. Green wire at the ignition switch with the truck in run. If you still have power there, but not at the coil, the ballast resistor wire is suspect. Find it in the main harness between the ignition switch, and coil. It will have two black barrel splices on it, very simular to what is on the fuseable links where the regular wire changes to the resistor wire. The resistor wire will have written on it.... Resistor wire Do not cut or splice. Check both ends of the resistor wire for power in the run position. If one end has power but the other doesn't. replace the Ballast Resistor wire.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 8,786
Likes: 28
From: Northern California
Alright, it's not the ballast resistor then.
Next step, ignition module / EEC or EEC power relay etc... if equipped.
What engine and ignition system does it have again? TFI-IV, Duraspark-II??
Next step, ignition module / EEC or EEC power relay etc... if equipped.
What engine and ignition system does it have again? TFI-IV, Duraspark-II??
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 5,330
Likes: 17
From: Dryden, ON, Canada
My vote goes for the DS-II box being burnt out in the run circuit. Start and run are powered separatley, and are separate sections of the box. I have seen this failure before.
a quick check is to unplug the 2 wire plug going into the box and power the white wire going into the box. If it runs, you've found your problem. The red wire is the normal power in run circuit. You can put power to it and see if it runs, odds are it won't.
a quick check is to unplug the 2 wire plug going into the box and power the white wire going into the box. If it runs, you've found your problem. The red wire is the normal power in run circuit. You can put power to it and see if it runs, odds are it won't.
