I know I saw a procedure on here somewhere for swapping out glow plugs and what the tourque specs were, but for the life of me I can't seem to find it. Getting ready to tear into the truck this morning, but want to be sure i have all the correct stuff first.

I did find the specs for rocker arm studs and injector hold downs that i plan to retourque while i am in there as well as the quarter mod for holding the wiring in.

If someone could direct me to the specs for glow plugs it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Tom

 

Here are some notes from when I did mine:

ZD11 Motorcraft glow plug is best

1. Disconnect the batteries
2. Clean up the valve covers with some mean green before removal. Wash down with H20.
3. Disconnect map sensor and any other electrical wires that might get in the way. Intercooler tubes should also come off (cover holes). Also, take off the heater hose brackets on the valve cover two bolts. To remove them take a screwdriver and pry up from the bottom.
4. Remove the intake tubing up to the turbocharger inlet and cover the holes.
5. Unbolt the valve covers-the only difficult bolts to reach are the ones in the back by the firewall. Patience and flexibility will help you get them out. On the passenger side: The oil fill tube unscrews counterclockwise. (This makes it easier to get the valve cover out.) 6. Disconnect the glow plug electrical connection. If you are replacing the harness and valve cover disconnect the injector wires at the injector.
7. With a deep 10 mm socket and 1/4 inch wrench with an extension, lossen the glow plug.
8. Get a small diameter vacuum line 6-8 inches. Slip this over the end of the glow plug to remove. Make sure it fits tight over the end of the glow plug. If you try to undo the glow plug all the way with a socket it will get hung up on the rocker arm and you can't get your socket out. Don't drop one in the abysses.

9. Drop new glow plug into the hole using vacuum tube, spin into place by hand if possible, and then use socket to tighten.

10. Torque specs:
Glow plugs: 124 inch pounds or 14NM
Valve cover bolts: 97 inch pounds or 11NM
Injector hold down bolts: 120 inch pounds or 14nm
rocker arm pedestal bolts to 20 ft-lbs
11. Put the UVC connector back onto the glow plug.
12. Repeat for other 7 cylinders.
13. Check UVC harness for stripped insulation/loose connections/etc... and replace if necessary. Also make sure no wires are touching any moving parts.
14. Make sure all electrical connectors are connected before putting the valve cover back on. May be a good idea to ohm out I to c and glow plug to ground before putting back on the valve cover. The pins will be arranged like this:
G - G - I - I - C - I - I - G - G

G = glow plug
I = Injector return
C = Injector common feed

You should measure .5 - 2 ohms between G and ground, and around 3.5-5 ohms between I and C.

 

Grant,

thanks for the fast response, exactly what I needed. Will post back later today on how it all went.

thansk, Tom

 

Have the passenger side done, didnt get to dedicate the whole day to the project, but i digress....

The UVCWH was loose, hence why #7 glo plug wasnt reading. Did the quarter mod and replaced all glow plugs while there. Fortunately all the wiring was clear of friction, albeit a little stiff.

the torque settings on rockers and injectors were as everyone has stated, wrong. the injectors didnt even read 20 inch pounds, was almost a full turn to reach spec. The rockers were closer, about 16 ft lbs.

On to the drivers side tomorrow for repeat performance, thanks all.

PS: Anyone have a dipstick and tube for sale? air ratchet twisted mine removing valve cover stud before i knew what happened

 

That seems to be the one part we always leave out of the instructions. Not all trucks have this issue, but when you put it all back together, remember the top nut over the dipstick tube bracket only holds the bracket on the stud. DO NOT TORQUE THIS NUT DOWN TOO TIGHT.

Sometimes there's an advantage to using an old fashioned slow ratchet to break things loose. If you would have noticed it starting to turn with a ratchet, you could have held the bracket with a pair of channel locks or something to break the nut loose.

Now you get to join the long list of folks who got to visit their friendly Ford dealer for a new tube & dipstick. I've seen pictures of a tube wrapped around an extension pretty good. How did yours look after using the impact?

If you're not in a big hurry, maybe Ed can get you a deal on the tube. The bright side is you'll be amazed how much better your motor sounds after tightening that stuff down. It's going to sound like a brand new motor.

 

Mine looks quite similar to my wifes cork screw for wine now..... Fortunately I just changed the oil 150 miles previous, so I am far from desperate on the stick and tube. Not my daily driver either, so time isnt quite as important.

would think after 40 years of breaking things i would learn to pay closer attention.....

 

Well lots of us would think that, and plenty of young ones plan on being past that foolish stage in their life by this point, but too often there seems to be an opportunity to say "Why did I do that?"

The good news is the tube can be replaced by just pulling it out of the part that attaches to the dip stick. The tube is held in by an o-ring and the bolt that gave you trouble. A new tube will just snap into place, tighten up the nut and you're done.

 

I did glow plugs last winter, I torqued everything and they were still really close to spec.. With 220k at the time, I found that odd. No notice in the difference of the engine noise either, still just as load as it was before.

 

At least it is just a dip stick, not something dropped through the head or what have you, could be a much bigger project.

Think i need to build a shop on the far end of the property away from all distractions, ie wife/kid/dogs, etc maybe I will pay attention then

 

I think that's Jody's fault. I've seen the same thing with Tony. I had my wife's truck all nice and quiet before the chip. Plug the chip in and the diesel rattle is definitely louder, but the skinny pedal seems to work better.

 

Dumb luck, driving to town for other parts this afternoon, saw a fella working on his f250, with a parts truck next to it, 10 bucks, and i have my tube

 

You're new here so I don't know your name, but next time anything like that ever happens to you, immediately stop at the local qwick stop and pick up a lotto ticket. It's always best to try and cash in before your luck changes.

Congrats on the find. You can't beat it for $10.

 

I have never had much luck, period, so i'll take my 10 bucks worth of dipstick and run happily away

While living in MT typically means waiting for parts of anykind, the good side is that approximately half the trucks here are 3/4 or 1 ton diesels due to the ranching/mining/guiding/construction environment. Mix in 5 million deer/antelope/elk/moose etc to our population of about 1 million humans, and you havve a ton of smashed trucks for parts.

Been 6 months since my last run in, 2 deer at once on a tacoma, 6500 in front end damage in .65 seconds. So the 10 bucks for a dip stick only seems fair after a 500 deductible!

Anyhow, I am Tom Phillips, Belgrade mt, yall gonna be seein lots of me in here I am guessing now that I have graduated to the diesel world, this being my first unless you count my 3 cyl chinese 30hp tractor....... Running a 2001 Super cab LB 7.3 4x4 with about 118k on it, dead stock, except for a pair of quarters under the valve covers now...... I am sure with all the help and insight here, that will all be changing as time and funds allow. All ready have synthetic tranny fluid on list, power steering flush, Bilstiens, new bushings for the sway bar, and intake mods on my "to do" list after all the reading here.

Thanks for all the help, look forward to getting to know and meet everyone in the near future.

Tom

 

The skinny pedal is pretty worthless now, I'm stock until I get my chip back. The truck definitely sounds quieter, with out the chip.

 

subscribing