Pulsating inboard lights
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 15,368
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From: Stuttgart, Ar
It doesn't take a socket, it takes a 1/2" drive breaker bar or something similar. There is also a small "catch" that you engage when you unload the idler that holds it in place. After that it's just 4? bolts and electrical connections and she's good to go. Also, if you get an A/M alternator make sure it's all oriented right because you can't turn the housing without messing it up. I put a 6G frame alternator on mine. 135A.
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2009
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So what you guy's are telling me is that it probably is an open diode on the alternator caused by a bad battery or batteries, and that i will have to replace not only the bad alternator but also the batteries??? This is getting expensive...
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2009
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WELL.....just got back from auto-zone.....my batteries and alternator checked out good.....??? What now??? Should i get some kind of second opinion.....i mean they hooked them up to their tester and the batteries are showing 11.25-11.57 volts or near 12....and alternator was ok......what could this be?.....The pulsating of lights is also accompanied by a droaning sound or a moaning sound...that co-insides with the pulsating lights...any help is greatly appreciated!
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 13,834
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From: Middle Tn.
1. Where is the droaning noise coming from?
2. AZ checked my batteries out and one week later they were dead.
3. AZ checked out buddies alternator in store and said it was good. I said it was bad and bought one anyway. It fixed the problem.
AZ serves a purpose but they are not the most qualified personell and their equipment is better than home equipment but it is not the bottom line. Use them as a tool but not the bottom line.
2. AZ checked my batteries out and one week later they were dead.
3. AZ checked out buddies alternator in store and said it was good. I said it was bad and bought one anyway. It fixed the problem.
AZ serves a purpose but they are not the most qualified personell and their equipment is better than home equipment but it is not the bottom line. Use them as a tool but not the bottom line.
New User
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 10
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From: Peoria, IL
WELL.....just got back from auto-zone.....my batteries and alternator checked out good.....??? What now??? Should i get some kind of second opinion.....i mean they hooked them up to their tester and the batteries are showing 11.25-11.57 volts or near 12....and alternator was ok......what could this be?.....The pulsating of lights is also accompanied by a droaning sound or a moaning sound...that co-insides with the pulsating lights...any help is greatly appreciated!
That voltage seems low. Was it just the batteries or whilst it was running they checked?
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Senior User
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that voltage was the batts while engine was off they tested each one seperately with engine off...then hook tester to positive wire then started truck and reved to 2000 and held it then to 2500 and held it and i think he said the alternator was producing 40 volts...i think he said 40 and he said it checked out good...?
New User
Joined: Aug 2008
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From: Peoria, IL
40!
I hope you misheard him and he said around 14?
If he saw 40 and he said you were OK, try somewhere else.
I think the swelling batteries and all the blown PCB's and lights would let you know if you have 40 volts.
I could be wrong, I am not an expert, but I would hope to see around 14 volts if the alternator was right.
It reminds me of a motorcycle I had that would get brighter the faster it went. It was a bad battery and the charge wasn't holding. When I idled it all went dim, then I would rev it and it would brighten up.
I hope you misheard him and he said around 14?
If he saw 40 and he said you were OK, try somewhere else.
I think the swelling batteries and all the blown PCB's and lights would let you know if you have 40 volts.
I could be wrong, I am not an expert, but I would hope to see around 14 volts if the alternator was right.
It reminds me of a motorcycle I had that would get brighter the faster it went. It was a bad battery and the charge wasn't holding. When I idled it all went dim, then I would rev it and it would brighten up.
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sorry i meant 14 my bad....i am going to try a couple more places tomorrow and double check to see what they say.....i still thinkits gotta be an alternator..but i guess i will find out.......
O QUESTION FOR YOU GUYS.....I SEE THERE ARE 8 GROOVE PULLEY'S AND 6 GROOVE PULLEY'S ON ATERNATORS...WHICH DO OUR TRUCKS HAVE....? I THINK I COUNTED 8 GROOVES ON THE BELT BUT WANNA MAKE SURE...AND THE CONNECTOR ON IT SHOULD BE AT 10 O'CLOCK CORRECT???
O QUESTION FOR YOU GUYS.....I SEE THERE ARE 8 GROOVE PULLEY'S AND 6 GROOVE PULLEY'S ON ATERNATORS...WHICH DO OUR TRUCKS HAVE....? I THINK I COUNTED 8 GROOVES ON THE BELT BUT WANNA MAKE SURE...AND THE CONNECTOR ON IT SHOULD BE AT 10 O'CLOCK CORRECT???
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Well guy's got a couple second opinions on the alternator and batts today from pep-boy's and autozone in another town...Pep-boy's didnt even test it right away they told me it was def alternator issues...and Auto-zone tested the batts and alternator...(this time i got someone alot more knowledgeable!) Both batteries are good cells!...The alternator was pulling 11.8 volts when it should be around 14 or 15 and all diodeds were good...so he said that it was not bad yet but getting there and i guess it was bad enough to show me these symptoms of pulsating lights... They did not have one in stock so i had to order one, i went with the 140 amp duralast which was 164.00 then 25.00 core charge total was 201 so thats not too bad...
I am assuming i can go one more week on her til i pick it up saturday...beings it is not bad bad off yet... hopefully i made the right move...
I am assuming i can go one more week on her til i pick it up saturday...beings it is not bad bad off yet... hopefully i made the right move...
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 13,834
Likes: 25
From: Middle Tn.
Well guy's got a couple second opinions on the alternator and batts today from pep-boy's and autozone in another town...Pep-boy's didnt even test it right away they told me it was def alternator issues...and Auto-zone tested the batts and alternator...(this time i got someone alot more knowledgeable!) Both batteries are good cells!...The alternator was pulling 11.8 volts when it should be around 14 or 15 and all diodeds were good...so he said that it was not bad yet but getting there and i guess it was bad enough to show me these symptoms of pulsating lights... They did not have one in stock so i had to order one, i went with the 140 amp duralast which was 164.00 then 25.00 core charge total was 201 so thats not too bad...
I am assuming i can go one more week on her til i pick it up saturday...beings it is not bad bad off yet... hopefully i made the right move...
I am assuming i can go one more week on her til i pick it up saturday...beings it is not bad bad off yet... hopefully i made the right move...
I would drive her as little as possible. Low voltage or voltage spikes can kill an FICM, meaning big bucks!
