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Any tips on how to get the lower intake to seal better? After 10,000 on the rebuilt (crate) my lower intake is starting to leak back and front. I just had a new clutch put in and the trans shop said the back of the block was wet under the galley location. I used black RTV instead of the cork gaskets when I reinstalled the lower. The engine runs great and the leak isn't bad (yet), but if I have to do it this winter I'd appreciate any input. When I originally installed the lower, the right (driver's) side took an unusally long time to torque up to specs. I always wondered if the mating surface on the old lower was not matching the rebuild block correctly.
I don't know why everybody is so afraid of cork gaskets? The solution is simple, clean the mating surface and glue the cork on there with contact cement, then apply RTV in the corners and a light bead along the top and you will never have a leak again.
I don't know why everybody is so afraid of cork gaskets? The solution is simple, clean the mating surface and glue the cork on there with contact cement, then apply RTV in the corners and a light bead along the top and you will never have a leak again.
I love cork gaskets. The parts store here hates me as if its not cork I don't buy it or make a big deal over it not being cork.
Biggest problem I ever had with intake gaskets was the first motor I ever rebuilt. a 390 BB. Made the mistake of installing a high vol. oil pump on new a kind of tight crank and rod bearings. Then drove in the plug on the end of the pump to up vol and pressure even higher. In the winter and engine cold I would peg the 100 PSI oil gauge. This just kind of pushed the valley gaskets out, and was hell on all the other gaskets too. Live and learn!
I have no abject fear of using cork gaskets but when I picked up the rebuild gaskets at a local speed shop, the owner told me to toss the cork and use RTV instead or face having leak problems. Never having done a 351 before I took his advice - obviously the cork plus the RTV would have been better.
What about the possibility of the lower manifold mating surface being warped? I had to torque the right (driver's) side bolts many more times than the left side while doing the crisscross pattern to get then to spec. I remember it seemed kind of odd to have to do this.
I have no abject fear of using cork gaskets but when I picked up the rebuild gaskets at a local speed shop, the owner told me to toss the cork and use RTV instead or face having leak problems. Never having done a 351 before I took his advice - obviously the cork plus the RTV would have been better.
What about the possibility of the lower manifold mating surface being warped? I had to torque the right (driver's) side bolts many more times than the left side while doing the crisscross pattern to get then to spec. I remember it seemed kind of odd to have to do this.
It could be warped. It happens. I spent a lot of money to have a 351W 4 bbl intake cleaned at machine shop when my last motor was rebuilt. Only to find it was unusable! was warped sooo bad that I broke one of the intake bolts trying to get it to lay down between the heads. I ended up scrapping the stock intake and picking up a summit intake & carb package.
Is there any way to check for trueness of the surface of the lower? I'm not a machinist but it would seems tough to do with the mating surface (the head) not out of the truck to measure against.
All I can think of is set the intake down on the heads and see if it rocks back and forth. Im sure there a sure fire way to check but I dont know what it would be.