alarm wiring
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FTE Legend
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From: Millersville, MD
Follow instructions to the letter! Take your time and if you are cutting and connecting wires rather than using replacement connectors, SOLDER the connections. Do NOT just twist the wires together or use those wire splices. Twist 'em to test, then solder.
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2006
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From: Central Florida
F SERIES SUPER DUTY 1997 -1998
KEY T-HARNESS IMMOBILIZER
N/A FD-1 N/A
PART COLOR LOCATION DIAGRAM
12 VOLT CONSTANT YELLOW (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
STARTER RED/LIGHT BLUE (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
STARTER 2 N/A
IGNITION 1 RED/LIGHT GREEN (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
IGNITION 2 BLACK/LIGHT GREEN (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
IGNITION 3 N/A
ACCESSORY/HEATER BLOWER 1 GRAY/YELLOW (+) (2 wires, use the heavier gauge wire) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
ACCESSORY/HEATER BLOWER 2 N/A
KEYSENSE N/A
PARKING LIGHTS ( - ) N/A
PARKING LIGHTS ( + ) BROWN (+) @ HEADLIGHT SWITCH or in DRIVERS KICK PANEL
POWER LOCK PINK/YELLOW (TYPE C) See NOTE *1 IN EITHER KICK PANEL, See NOTE *1
POWER UNLOCK PINK/LIGHT GREEN (TYPE C) See NOTE *1 IN EITHER KICK PANEL, See NOTE *1
LOCK MOTOR WIRE N/A
DOOR TRIGGER BLACK/BLUE (+) IN DRIVERS KICK PANEL
DOMELIGHT SUPERVISION USE DOOR TRIGGER, Requires Part #775 Relay
TRUNK RELEASE N/A
SLIDING POWER DOOR N/A
HORN DARK BLUE (-) @ STEERING COLUMN HARNESS
TACH TAN/YELLOW, See NOTE *2 @ IGNITON COIL
WAIT TO START LIGHT See NOTE *2 27207_F-SERIES-SUPER-DUTY_WAIT TO START ISOLATION CIRCUIT.pdf
BRAKE LIGHT GREEN (+) @ SWITCH ABOVE BRAKE PEDAL
FACTORY ALARM DISARM DARK GREEN/PURPLE (-) IN DRIVERS KICK PANEL
ANTI-THEFT N/A
NOTES
NOTE *1 Vehicles with FACTORY KEYLESS ENTRY are a TYPE "B" Door locking system, vehicles without FACTORY KEYLESS are a TYPE "C" Door locking system, when doing TYPE C Locks, use the DRIVERS side SWITCH when TESTING. Wires are much easier to catch on the Passenger side of vehicle, the parking brake bracket hides the wires on the driver side of vehicle.
NOTE *2 On DIESELS the TACH wire is a WHITE/PINK located at the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) or at the Main Harness that runs on the inside of the firewall to the left of the brake pedal. For WAIT TO START LIGHT, do not use the wire in the vehicle, use the 5,10, 15 ro 20 Second PROGRAMMABLE Wait To Start Timmer on the Remote Starter.
KEY T-HARNESS IMMOBILIZER
N/A FD-1 N/A
PART COLOR LOCATION DIAGRAM
12 VOLT CONSTANT YELLOW (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
STARTER RED/LIGHT BLUE (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
STARTER 2 N/A
IGNITION 1 RED/LIGHT GREEN (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
IGNITION 2 BLACK/LIGHT GREEN (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
IGNITION 3 N/A
ACCESSORY/HEATER BLOWER 1 GRAY/YELLOW (+) (2 wires, use the heavier gauge wire) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
ACCESSORY/HEATER BLOWER 2 N/A
KEYSENSE N/A
PARKING LIGHTS ( - ) N/A
PARKING LIGHTS ( + ) BROWN (+) @ HEADLIGHT SWITCH or in DRIVERS KICK PANEL
POWER LOCK PINK/YELLOW (TYPE C) See NOTE *1 IN EITHER KICK PANEL, See NOTE *1
POWER UNLOCK PINK/LIGHT GREEN (TYPE C) See NOTE *1 IN EITHER KICK PANEL, See NOTE *1
LOCK MOTOR WIRE N/A
DOOR TRIGGER BLACK/BLUE (+) IN DRIVERS KICK PANEL
DOMELIGHT SUPERVISION USE DOOR TRIGGER, Requires Part #775 Relay
TRUNK RELEASE N/A
SLIDING POWER DOOR N/A
HORN DARK BLUE (-) @ STEERING COLUMN HARNESS
TACH TAN/YELLOW, See NOTE *2 @ IGNITON COIL
WAIT TO START LIGHT See NOTE *2 27207_F-SERIES-SUPER-DUTY_WAIT TO START ISOLATION CIRCUIT.pdf
BRAKE LIGHT GREEN (+) @ SWITCH ABOVE BRAKE PEDAL
FACTORY ALARM DISARM DARK GREEN/PURPLE (-) IN DRIVERS KICK PANEL
ANTI-THEFT N/A
NOTES
NOTE *1 Vehicles with FACTORY KEYLESS ENTRY are a TYPE "B" Door locking system, vehicles without FACTORY KEYLESS are a TYPE "C" Door locking system, when doing TYPE C Locks, use the DRIVERS side SWITCH when TESTING. Wires are much easier to catch on the Passenger side of vehicle, the parking brake bracket hides the wires on the driver side of vehicle.
NOTE *2 On DIESELS the TACH wire is a WHITE/PINK located at the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) or at the Main Harness that runs on the inside of the firewall to the left of the brake pedal. For WAIT TO START LIGHT, do not use the wire in the vehicle, use the 5,10, 15 ro 20 Second PROGRAMMABLE Wait To Start Timmer on the Remote Starter.
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2006
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cool thanks man got the alarm today and all the directions are is a wiring scymatic so im going to follow that are trucks dont use relays or diodes anything like that right? just straight up wiring?
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 10,007
Likes: 4
From: Central Florida
Additional relays and diodes are more up to the alarm manufacture and some install decisions. If you go to the dome light for intrusion input, then it should be a simple wiring, where as using each door trigger will most likely require diode isolation.
Run a fresh 8ga power wire from the battery to power the unit. Then splice in the Ign and Accy wires under the dash. If you have a start interrupt, you'll have to cut the crank wire. Then if you can run into the master door lock or a body computer, then it should be a simple splice. However, if you want priority unlock or don't have a central low power door lock trigger, then you will have to install relays.
Run a fresh 8ga power wire from the battery to power the unit. Then splice in the Ign and Accy wires under the dash. If you have a start interrupt, you'll have to cut the crank wire. Then if you can run into the master door lock or a body computer, then it should be a simple splice. However, if you want priority unlock or don't have a central low power door lock trigger, then you will have to install relays.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,069
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From: Toledo, Ohio
Its actually the other way with the diode... If you hook into the dome light for the supervision thing (feature) you need the diode or something. If you hook into the door triggers its just wire. I know, I did it in my truck.
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 10,007
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From: Central Florida
I went to my door triggers and had to use 8 diodes to isolate them. The GEM system is a PITA, but it's handy for the keyless integration. I haven't done the supervision, but that is different from the intrusion input.
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here guys incase i have problems i figure you can help me better if you can also see the wiring diagram
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alright im stuck i have everything working except 2 items 1st is emote start wired like instructions say to but still does not work also i have 3 grey and yellow wires 1 16g 2 14g i have tried wiring the 2 14together with the wire from the starter module still does not help 2nd is the door open why do i need a relay? i wired straight in and after about 15 seconds the alarm pages me saying that the door is open when i know it has 12v and a good ground. advice is needed thanks
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well shes in not everything is working yet but the problem with the remote start was that i didnt push the emergancy brake down befor i tried lol and i have not figured out the problem with the doors yet but everything else works great so out of 28 wires i figured 26 out im pretty proud of myself lol you were right volvo it did take a long time i started at 900 this moring and finished around 830 tonight bbut i am very picky so i wired loomed everything andmade it all pretty but minus that i still didnt finish the wiring till 530 but all in all success
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 10,007
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From: Central Florida
I'd bet you have the same issue as I did with the door wiring. If you watch the voltages on the door sensors, after a couple of minutes it will drop from 12v to ~3v as a power saving feature. This is where diode isolation comes into play, but your blue wire is a (-) input and using the power side of the dome light wire will not work and will require the relay.
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 10,007
Likes: 4
From: Central Florida
http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/..._isolation.pdf This is the tech sheet on using the door triggers. The other option is to use the dome light,but if your also using dome light supervision you'll still need to use a diode to isolate the supervision from the input.