Cutting Vinyl Siding
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Tuned
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 287
Likes: 1
Cutting Vinyl Siding
I've been on the classic truck site for years -succeeding in reviving my 1988 F250 back to life with the assistance I found there. Read some of the posts here and thought I'd ask a nagging question of my own.
I have to cut through vinyl siding to attach a screened in porch addition. The vertical posts and the end rafters of the porch will lay against the existing house wall. I was going to make a cutting jig and use a small tooth blade on my cordless circular saw to make the cut. My question is are there any other ideas on making the cuts and how can I put in the neccesary J moldings over/under the cut ends of the vinyl after attaching the posts and flashing the shingles against the house? I've worked with wood siding for years and this wouldn't pose as much of an issue.
I have to cut through vinyl siding to attach a screened in porch addition. The vertical posts and the end rafters of the porch will lay against the existing house wall. I was going to make a cutting jig and use a small tooth blade on my cordless circular saw to make the cut. My question is are there any other ideas on making the cuts and how can I put in the neccesary J moldings over/under the cut ends of the vinyl after attaching the posts and flashing the shingles against the house? I've worked with wood siding for years and this wouldn't pose as much of an issue.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,672
Likes: 20
From: Nixa
It would save you time and agrivation to take the siding off before you do the addition. because you have to nail j molding behind the siding and nail and caulk the flashing behind the siding as well. oh don't nail the siding tight leave the nails about 1/16 to 1/8' loose, and cut the siding a1/4 or more short, this gives the siding room to move with expansion and contraction.
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 39
From: EXTREME southwest CT
Get yourself a siding unzipper tool like the Malco SideSwiper 1 or 2.
It will be the best $5 you ever spent.
It will be the best $5 you ever spent.
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Hotshot
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 10,764
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Thinking about this later ,I thought it may be a good idea to number ,of label the siding on the back side so its easier to reinstall in the right places , also , you may want to replace the vapor barrier , unless the nails go back in the same holes .
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Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2006
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Yeah, I would put new vapor/air barrier up (you can use 15# felt, 30# is better, house wrap is the best) and dont nail into the existing holes, unless the shank of the nail is bigger than the hole.
And no smart comments
And no smart comments
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 9,176
Likes: 4
From: Western Central NV
I wouldn't use felt. Use Tyvek wrap. Remember went you renail the siding do not nail the sliding tight. The siding must be able to move with heat & cold. I sided several houses for a Government contractor at a military base years ago. We just cut siding with tin snips, & razor knives.
Craig
Craig
Hotshot
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 10,764
Likes: 39
There are plenty more places to put new nails if he decides to go that route . It will save the cost of a new vapor barrier & block air intrusion ... (but you have to fill all the old nail holes ..
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 6,473
Likes: 4
From: Lafayette, IN
Personally, I wouldn't leave the siding 1/4" short at or near the hottest temperatures your area sees during the year. I'd make it almost tight. It will only shrink from there...
Also, if it's very far below freezing, just don't bother. You'll break more than you install.
Jason
Also, if it's very far below freezing, just don't bother. You'll break more than you install.
Jason