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Recently, my passenger side door lock will not lock or unlock using the key fob or the switch. When you hit the unlock button, you can see the lock trying to come up but it just won't make it. It seems as if there is too much friction and the motor is not strong enough to push the lock up. Does anyone have any idea how to fix it?
That link Jim posted is really old and very long. Read through all the way because a lot of guys started using a copper penny instead of tin foil to fix the actuator.
Does anyone know how to find out if I have 2 or 5 wire system on my door lock? I was exploring just buying after marker acuators, but they need that questions answered.
Thanks
Mine did this a couple years ago and I opted for the tin foil fix. Still goin strong after the fix. Saved money from buying new actuators! I highly recommend it. Wasn't too hard either.
do a search on ebay and you will be able to find the actuators for pretty cheap. i dont recall how much i actually paid, but i am thinking it was around 40-50 for both front doors shipped to my house. pretty easy job to do.
And while you are in there, buy a set of Jimmi-Jammers and install those as well. About a month after I installed mine someone tried to break into my truck. luckily all it did was pop loose some of the linkage.
do a search on ebay and you will be able to find the actuators for pretty cheap. i dont recall how much i actually paid, but i am thinking it was around 40-50 for both front doors shipped to my house. pretty easy job to do.
Why would you spend all that cash for replacement actuators when you can fix them for a penny each?
I just don't think I have the patients for it, plus the fact that it's been pouring cats and dogs here for weeks with no end, and I have no cover, garage. I may just live with it for now til I get help. I guess worse case scenario, if I try to fix it, and I blow it, THEN i can buy these aftermarket ones I found.
Why would you spend all that cash for replacement actuators when you can fix them for a penny each?
Buying new ones makes no sense.
Stewart
From what I've read, if you have kids and/or dogs riding with you and they happen to press and hold the button down, it will burn up the jerry-rigged actuator. I'm not doing the penny fix and it doesn't make sense to do so in my situation.
There's a time to be cheap and there's a time to be smart.
The "penny" or "tin foil" method can be a gamble since you have to disassemble the drive mechanism.
Some folks like the challenge aside from saving the few bucks and others do not like that challenge. Depends on the person. I personally like the challenge, but realize others are different.
If you go with the after market type you will likely deal with this one time if replaced properly.
Go for it!
The good part is, you don't have to remove the original, you place the aftermarket one in line to repace. Just move the wires over. I found them from a link someone gave me on the forum, $38 total for both sides.
From what I've read, if you have kids and/or dogs riding with you and they happen to press and hold the button down, it will burn up the jerry-rigged actuator. I'm not doing the penny fix and it doesn't make sense to do so in my situation.
I was unaware of the 2 or 5 wire systems.
That's a "what if" situation. And if that "what if" ever happens, then of course you would spend the cash to replace. But what if that "what if" never occurs?
Wow, you've saved over a hundred bucks! And depending on where you get the actuators and how many doors you have, possibly even two-hundred! (Or cheaper if you use the same ones Damons posted about)
I'm not sure why it doesn't make sense to do in your situation since you haven't elaborated, but hey, I'm not trying to make you save money.