When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Im considering flipping the reluctor arms over to the lower setting, and swapping the springs to something lighter.
I understand all that for the most part, but how do you go about setting the timing after replacing the distributor?
I replaced the distributor once before, but was able to mark the exact location for the reinstall.
Im not sure how flipping the reluctor arms 180 degrees will effect the marks?
The slots in the arms limit the centrifugal advance.
Lighter springs will make it happen faster.
Just get it back in with the right tooth engaged and set it like you always would with a timing light.
With less overall advance you might start with a few more initial degrees to end up with the same total advance at, say 3500 rpm.
Do you have the Crane Cams 99607-1 adjustable vacuum advance?
Crane Cams 99607-1 seems "currently unavailable" almost everywhere..
Ill swap that out as soon as I can get one, I think my current vacuum
advance is stock under all that rust.. it may have been adjustable at
one time I dont know.
For now I ended up pulled the distributor and ripped it apart to find
a 21L and a 16L slot. It was already using the 16L slot so im going to
hack it down to around a 13L or 14L, and install the springs from
Mr. Gasket #925D.
Crane Cams went out of business earlier this year (although I think they were later
purchased by somebody in the motorcycle biz and are back making only motorcycle
parts).
Swatter,
You'll need to weld up the slot or bush the limit pin if you want to reduce your 16L slot to 26-28*.
I knew about Crane going out of business, and that S&S is now making the Harley cams.
But had no idea there wouldn't be advance units still available. I mean, there must have been millions made....
Sad day in Daytona.
I THINK the Standard Automotive Products VC-221 is adjustable as well.
*Edit* Can't hurt to try sticking a 3/32nds allen wrench into your vacuum inlet and see if there is a screw in there.
A welder would come in handy right about now... the plan was to drill a hole
and rivet a small clip onto the arm, the clip would bend down into the slot
and could be adjustable just by bending it in or out, but no drill bit can
even scratch this thing... one hour on the drill press 3 different bits and
all I've done was scratch the surface with a small grinding wheel.. They
should just build the whole truck outa this stuff..
Try putting a piece of tubing around the little arm that bends up from the bottom through the slot.
K&S Brass tubing from the hobby store is about 1/64th wall, so it more or less equals the .030" difference in slots when you account for both sides.
A foot of tubing is only like $1 and they all telescope so you can stack them up.
I forget the best size to start with right now, but that's the way we used to do it.
After torching and drilling while glowing red, here is my hack job.
The gap is now 13mm down from 15mm. I would guess that is about 14L slot
or 28 degrees centrifugal advance = .514 I might bend it out alittle to
make it about a 13L I dont know really. Anyways, the springs will be here
tomorrow, then we see if it was worth it.
Try putting a piece of tubing around the little arm that bends up from the bottom through the slot.
Yeah, thats what that link said to do you gave me, but it was to hard working in the housing,
and remove the little plastic hold downs wasnt a option,, so I just keep drilling
I was under the impression that Mr.Gasket #925D came with a set of each heavy, medium, light but, only
got a set of light. Was going to replace the heavy with a medium, and the medium with light. anyway,
put the light springs in and got it back into the truck. The difference is instantly noticeable thats
for sure, but thinking the 2 light springs might be over kill for my truck. I still need new plugs and
wires, and a vacuum advance that works before I know for sure. Just wish I had more time to work on it..
its getting dark earlier everyday here...
....put the light springs in and got it back into the truck. The difference is instantly noticeable thats for sure, but thinking the 2 light springs might be over kill for my truck. ...
If you're using it for a work truck or hauling a trailer you probably want a pair of springs that don't go to full advance until 3000rpm or more.
That's also the point of limiting the amount of centrifugal advance. You can have the advantage of more initial advance without going off the scale higher in the rev range.
As always, an engine is a balanced system, not a conglomeration of parts.
Too much of any one thing is a bad thing for a street driven vehicle.
Its a rollback tow truck, two car hauler at that, and I'm driving in stop and go traffic all day. I put this truck down when gas was $3.50 gallon, cause it was costing me $100 per day. Id spend whatever it takes to increase mileage anything other then headers cause headers are more trouble then there worth in my business.
I havent been able to really test out the light spring yet, but im guessing im clueless on this... maybe ill leave the gap set where it is around a 14L and find medium springs.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.