Hey guys.. Thanks in advance. Ive got a high idle problem. My EGR is missing the attached air tube. the bottom of the EGR is somewhat capped off (soda bottle cap) when i remove the cap, the engine idles up and red lines the tach. Im looking at plugging the back of the motor (where the air pipe connects) w/ 5/8 bolts tomorrow, and fitting the EGR with a better plug. Any thoughts on the high idle problem? No check engine lights are present.

 

The EGR valve should not be open at all at idle so it's either stuck open or it's getting full manifold vacuum which means the vacuum line isn't routed to the EVR correctly or the EVR is faulty. Does the engine idle up the same way when the vacuum line is removed from the valve? If it does then the valve is stuck so remove and clean it if you plan to maintain EGR function or simply leave it off and install a blockoff plate.

 

There is no vacumm comming to the top of the EGR, ever (the green vacuum line) If i simply remove the EGR and block it off I understand this will throw a check engine light... am i correct, is there a way to avoid the light? Do I need to plug where the air tub connects to the back of the block? The selinoid facing front near the coil does get a good vacumm, it just never opens and lets it get to the EGR.

 

did some testing this morning. If i bypass the seliniod ad plly vaccume to the top of the EGR nothing happens. If i remove the cap (dont know how well it was sealing) from the bottom of the egr, nothing happens, however if i apply vacumm while the cap is removed, the rpms rasied to 5k. The truck is not timed correctly, had to move the dizzy to retard the motor to keep the rpms down.

 

Yes, put the valve back on with a piece of sheetmetal and new gaskets between it and the intake to block the port, and reconnect the electrical connector.

Yes if you have removed the air tube. a 5/8 x 1" coarse bolt will do.

Does it pass vacuum when the throttle is raised? if not it's probably broken so you could replace it if you intend to make the EGR system functional again, otherwise just leave it electrically connected and forget it.

 

I know the cross member section of the air tube is still connected, just the pip that comes up front is missing, is there still any benefit from pluging the back of the block. Thanks for all your help!

 

not to ask all the questions in the world, but can i eliminate the IAC the same way?

 

I'd plug the back of the heads, easy to do and will keep it from developing a leak in a few months when the tubing fails.

but can i eliminate the IAC the same way?

Nope, you're gonna need that part.

 

ok ive sealed the EGR. and it still idles high. I turned the dizzy but when i get the rpms down, i lose performance. Any other ideas for a high idle? im able to drive it now, but the idle is about 1500rpms(a little better), that seems high. really high. im thinking next the IAC or maybe i have a vacumm leak.... any easy way to check either? FYI this is a huning vehicle. the AC compressor has been taken off, and who need cruise control. what vacuum likes do i really need? what can i cap off?