Repair Manual?
#2
09-11-2009, 10:15 PM
#3
09-12-2009, 02:03 PM
#4
09-17-2009, 06:41 PM
#6
09-18-2009, 11:04 AM
Thanks everyone….
I went to the local library again and they had the new Haynes and Chilton Manuals in for up to the F-350 pick ups. It did not take me long to figure out they are both published by Haynes, just a different layout. The Chilton seems to be a better format for me. The Helm Manuals seemed like over kill for what I was looking for, more for a professional.
I made a living as a mechanic in the 60’s and 70’s. I built and raced big block Chevy’s, but since then I have only done minor repairs and upkeep on my vehicles. I have a lot of catching up to do to get with the new computerized vehicles of today. All my tools date from the 60’s. I just purchased an Actron CP9180 scan tool that will hopefully help as soon as I learn how to use it.
After researching the V-10 forum for a while I was very apprehensive about the plugs stripping out after 93000 miles. I did # 5 because it was the easiest to get to. I went with the penetrating oil and did the antiseize lube on the new Autolight plug. For the life of me I could not just torque that plug to 13 Ft-lb using my old Craftsman click type torque wrench. It only reads in Ft-lbs with 10 being the lowest setting. To me it felt no more than finger tight. Another 1/8th turn felt good at 20 to 22 Ft-lbs. The other thing I thought was that the penetrating oil I used on the old plug would have to interfere with the antiseize lube on the new plug.
That was last month and I said the heck with it, I will just take it to a shop and let them do it.
I went on a small trip with the RV. When I got back I got enlightenment on what garages charged for a tune up. The dealers wanted $780 and most shops wanted $350 to $450. A lot of the shops were very vague on their knowledge of the V10 and its problem with plugs blowing out and their threads being easy to strip out.
All this info I gathered made me pull the engine cover off again and reassess why I did not want to tackle this project. I thought I might have to move the fuel rack. Not so. I did not like the way the spark plug boots fit over the plugs. The old days you could touch them with your fingers and they would snap on tightly. I would have to accept the new design. On this RV the dipstick tube was right over the right bank of plugs and as it turned out I was able to move it slightly to work. I had to move the air intake hose and the throttle cable holder. A close friend said not to use the penetrating oil unless necessary. That sounded good to me. My worst fear was stripping the threads.
I recently retired, so I had more time than money. I started and did a little bit at a time taking two or three days to complete it. The dirt has to be blown out of the plug area before taking them out. All the plugs broke loose dry at 22 Ft-lb. They looked good with an average gap of .066. I used antiseize on the new plugs and torque them to about 22 Ft-lbs. I used Motorcraft plugs and Standard brand boots. I also replaced the first plug I did. It came out with the same 22 Ft-lb of resistance.
All in all, this was not a bad project to do. I am so glad I did not have to do this in a van or pick up truck lying across the fenders to reach everything. I also think that with the current labor rate of about $100 an hour, the charges quoted by various shops were justified for them to stay in business.
Next project is changing the ATF. The problem is that my transmission doesn’t look like the ones pictured in the manuals. Hal
I went to the local library again and they had the new Haynes and Chilton Manuals in for up to the F-350 pick ups. It did not take me long to figure out they are both published by Haynes, just a different layout. The Chilton seems to be a better format for me. The Helm Manuals seemed like over kill for what I was looking for, more for a professional.
I made a living as a mechanic in the 60’s and 70’s. I built and raced big block Chevy’s, but since then I have only done minor repairs and upkeep on my vehicles. I have a lot of catching up to do to get with the new computerized vehicles of today. All my tools date from the 60’s. I just purchased an Actron CP9180 scan tool that will hopefully help as soon as I learn how to use it.
After researching the V-10 forum for a while I was very apprehensive about the plugs stripping out after 93000 miles. I did # 5 because it was the easiest to get to. I went with the penetrating oil and did the antiseize lube on the new Autolight plug. For the life of me I could not just torque that plug to 13 Ft-lb using my old Craftsman click type torque wrench. It only reads in Ft-lbs with 10 being the lowest setting. To me it felt no more than finger tight. Another 1/8th turn felt good at 20 to 22 Ft-lbs. The other thing I thought was that the penetrating oil I used on the old plug would have to interfere with the antiseize lube on the new plug.
That was last month and I said the heck with it, I will just take it to a shop and let them do it.
I went on a small trip with the RV. When I got back I got enlightenment on what garages charged for a tune up. The dealers wanted $780 and most shops wanted $350 to $450. A lot of the shops were very vague on their knowledge of the V10 and its problem with plugs blowing out and their threads being easy to strip out.
All this info I gathered made me pull the engine cover off again and reassess why I did not want to tackle this project. I thought I might have to move the fuel rack. Not so. I did not like the way the spark plug boots fit over the plugs. The old days you could touch them with your fingers and they would snap on tightly. I would have to accept the new design. On this RV the dipstick tube was right over the right bank of plugs and as it turned out I was able to move it slightly to work. I had to move the air intake hose and the throttle cable holder. A close friend said not to use the penetrating oil unless necessary. That sounded good to me. My worst fear was stripping the threads.
I recently retired, so I had more time than money. I started and did a little bit at a time taking two or three days to complete it. The dirt has to be blown out of the plug area before taking them out. All the plugs broke loose dry at 22 Ft-lb. They looked good with an average gap of .066. I used antiseize on the new plugs and torque them to about 22 Ft-lbs. I used Motorcraft plugs and Standard brand boots. I also replaced the first plug I did. It came out with the same 22 Ft-lb of resistance.
All in all, this was not a bad project to do. I am so glad I did not have to do this in a van or pick up truck lying across the fenders to reach everything. I also think that with the current labor rate of about $100 an hour, the charges quoted by various shops were justified for them to stay in business.
Next project is changing the ATF. The problem is that my transmission doesn’t look like the ones pictured in the manuals. Hal
#7
09-18-2009, 03:26 PM
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