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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

This blinker mod really works!!

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Old Sep 13, 2009 | 09:51 AM
  #16  
greyghost85's Avatar
greyghost85
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From: Lebanon
got a flat bed w/lite on corner of bed, behind cab. it might be cool for them to blink during turns.
 
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Old Sep 13, 2009 | 10:09 PM
  #17  
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Works great...

Just completed this mod. Took less than ten minutes and its flawless. For the drivers side, I didn't even need extra wire, the ground wire was long enough on the marker light socket to reach the green wire on the signal light.

I'm surprised Ford never did this as its a simple change to the wiring harness that would probably cost ZERO dollars. Mind you, in 87, they went to the bigger light that was for the side and the front that took care of that problem.

Ryan.
 
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Old Dec 30, 2009 | 09:11 AM
  #18  
THE BLUE HEAP's Avatar
THE BLUE HEAP
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From: Sherman Oaks California
NICE JOB!!! love this forum...

I have a 1986 E-150 & will do the same, I think we use the same wires right?
I could probably use Wire Tap Splices if I have enough wire in that area...

Thanks for sharing this
 
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Old Dec 31, 2009 | 01:55 AM
  #19  
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hittman1422
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From: Blue Eye, mo. hwy 86 & JJ
wow i'm retarted.... i always thought they already blinked just that mine was broke....
 
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Old Dec 31, 2009 | 02:02 PM
  #20  
LARIAT 85's Avatar
LARIAT 85
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From: Florence, SC
Originally Posted by ctubutis
But, it had separate lamp assemblies for the front/rear & side markers. I suspect
these trucks don't operate this way from the factory because the rear housings
are dual-purpose - for both the rear & side lamps. So, if you make this mod, and
then look at the vehicle from a side view, it's gonna look like a confused school
bus...


How do you do this mod WITHOUT it looking like a "confused school bus?" Sounds like a good mod, but I am with ctubutis; I think it may look silly if the side and back lights don't blink at the same time.
 
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Old Dec 31, 2009 | 02:39 PM
  #21  
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86bigred
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From: patricia ab canada
i have also noticed nobody here also mentioned when you cut these wires to solder the wires used dielectric grease and heat shrink tubing.otherwise the copper will corrode causing resistance ,and with resistance is heat=possible fire.don't just strip the wire wrap the copper wire and tape it together,this is a hack job or hacker wiring.this will bite you in the future.trust me i'm sick of fixing someone else's hack job.

don't use those crimp connector's or those wire tap POS,these are not water proof and will fail.DO IT PROPERLY.those wire tap connectors have got to be the worst ting invented,if i see these in a wire they are cut out and i make a proper connection.those things should be outlawed,i've seen 6 in the same wire,no wonder he was blowing fuses.
 
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Old Dec 31, 2009 | 05:05 PM
  #22  
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Brewtl
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From: Australia
My truck has always had blinking sidemarkers! This would have been due to a requirement because of ADRs (Australian Design Rules) as well as my truck having a localised wiring loom based on a Falcon of the same era.
 
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Old Jan 3, 2010 | 12:53 PM
  #23  
THE BLUE HEAP's Avatar
THE BLUE HEAP
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From: Sherman Oaks California
Originally Posted by muleguitar
ok, i'll copy and paste this from a thread from 2005. i tried it and it really works. i have been driving the freeways and determined it would be alot safer if my front side-marker lamps would blink as well. here's the mod i performed, and did it without a test light like it explains. just use common sense to determine which color wires do what, and you can do it without having to use extra wire. all i needed was a razor blade, needle nose plyers, and a roll of electrical tape. here it is:

The whole job involves only re-routing one wire on each side. You just
need to check carefully to ensure that you've identified the right ones.

1) Switch on the vehicle's parking lights and 4-way emergency flashers.
You don't need to run the engine during this test unless the battery
is severely low.

2) Using the test light on the wiring going into each turn signal, identify
the wire carrying the blinking turn-signal power.

3) Using the test light on the wiring going into each front side marker
lamp, identify the ground wire (the one that's _not_ hot).

4) Switch the vehicle lights off. You don't need to disconnect the battery.

5) In the next step, you're going to snip the ground wire coming from the
marker lamp and connect that wire to the turn signal's power feed. Work
out the best way to snake the marker lamp ground wire around to a point
where you can tap it into the turn signal's power feed wire, using an
extension of 14-gauge wire if necessary. Pay attention to what cavities
or openings might be filled when you reinstall the light assemblies, if
you removed them previously. You don't want to pinch the rerouted wires.

Note: Don't get confused here. The idea is to run the ground wire
FROM the marker lamp TO the turn signal. Currently it runs
from the marker lamp into the wiring harness and grounds
somewhere. You're _not_ trying to connect the harness ground
to the turn signal!

6) Cut the ground wire coming from the marker lamp, giving yourself as much
wire length as possible from the marker lamp to the cut point. Tape the
cut end of the ground wire that goes into the vehicle harness and stuff
it out of the way.

7) Connect the ground wire leading from the marker lamp to the hot lead
going to the turn signal on that side. Tape or otherwise weatherproof
the connection, and you're done.
Hi,
I have a 1986 e-150, the side marker lights only have 2 wires coming out of it one is brown & one is black, when I connect the power coming from the turn signal to the ground wire (BLACK WIRE, THIS WIRE HAS NO POWER) I blew the fuse...

Any sugestions?

I'm going to try the other wire, if I blow another fuse I'll stop
 
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Old Jan 3, 2010 | 08:38 PM
  #24  
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ctubutis
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Did you first cut the black wire to disconnect it from ground? And, did you connect
the turn signal power to the black wire going to the LAMP and not to ground?

EDIT: It just occurred to me, don't vans have separate rear side lamps? If so, you
would need to do this mod to both the front and back.
 
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Old Jan 4, 2010 | 11:08 AM
  #25  
THE BLUE HEAP's Avatar
THE BLUE HEAP
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From: Sherman Oaks California
Originally Posted by ctubutis
Did you first cut the black wire to disconnect it from ground? And, did you connect
the turn signal power to the black wire going to the LAMP and not to ground?

EDIT: It just occurred to me, don't vans have separate rear side lamps? If so, you
would need to do this mod to both the front and back.
Thanks for the quick response,
No, since I don't know much about this I made the mistake (I thought I'll take a short cut...) & used wire splicers between the turn signal wire that turns the flicker on & off & the side marker power, but regardless of my mistake, I have an e-150, the side marker sockets are a 2 wire socket, the truck in the pics that were posted had a three wire socket, I don't know much about this but common sense would make me think that I would need to have a 2 filament light bulb & a 3 wire socket, right?

Otherwise, that means if I hook up the wires according to the directions on that post I will loose the side markers parking lights capability to be on at the same time, right?

If I am correct, do you know where I can buy the 3 wire socket? I tryed looking online but all I find are the 2 wire type....

Thanks again
 
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Old Jan 4, 2010 | 08:26 PM
  #26  
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ctubutis
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Originally Posted by THE BLUE HEAP
... I have an e-150, the side marker sockets are a 2 wire socket, the truck in the pics that were posted had a three wire socket
The pictures are deceiving, the trucks also use two-wire side marker sockets.
The power to the side marker sockets normally comes from the brown wire;
each of those sockets are connected to the same circuit, the same brown wire.
IOW the brown wire begins at the headlight switch and connects to the
left-front side marker socket; it leaves that socket and continues on to socket
on the other side; from there, it needs to go to the rear sockets.

The exact routing is probably not exactly like I described it but the effect is the
same. The same circuit also powers the license plate illumination. Some trucks
also have orange marker lamps on the roof that are connected to that same
brown-wire circuit, and some (all?) have the headlight-on warning buzzer
connected to that same circuit (even if there is no physical buzzer installed, the
wiring is there for one).

The gist of it is, the sockets themselves use single-filament bulbs and are
two-wire sockets; one for power, the other for ground.

Originally Posted by THE BLUE HEAP
I don't know much about this but common sense would make me think that I would need to have a 2 filament light bulb & a 3 wire socket, right?

Otherwise, that means if I hook up the wires according to the directions on that post I will loose the side markers parking lights capability to be on at the same time, right?
I'm not aware of any vehicles that use two-filament bulbs and three-wire
sockets on any side markers. In two-filament bulbs, one is lit continuously and
the other is lit momentarily (e.g. when the brakes are applied or the turn
signals/emergency flashers are activated). The side markers are either on or
off, nothing more.

So, two-filament side markers are all you will need but do this same mod to the
back, too.

EDIT: oddshot posted some pretty good info on how (and how not) to splice wires, you
might be interested in it:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...t-running.html
 
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Old Jan 4, 2010 | 10:05 PM
  #27  
THE BLUE HEAP's Avatar
THE BLUE HEAP
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From: Sherman Oaks California
Originally Posted by ctubutis

The pictures are deceiving, the trucks also use two-wire side marker sockets.
The power to the side marker sockets normally comes from the brown wire;
each of those sockets are connected to the same circuit, the same brown wire.
IOW the brown wire begins at the headlight switch and connects to the
left-front side marker socket; it leaves that socket and continues on to socket
on the other side; from there, it needs to go to the rear sockets.

The exact routing is probably not exactly like I described it but the effect is the
same. The same circuit also powers the license plate illumination. Some trucks
also have orange marker lamps on the roof that are connected to that same
brown-wire circuit, and some (all?) have the headlight-on warning buzzer
connected to that same circuit (even if there is no physical buzzer installed, the
wiring is there for one).

The gist of it is, the sockets themselves use single-filament bulbs and are
two-wire sockets; one for power, the other for ground.



I'm not aware of any vehicles that use two-filament bulbs and three-wire
sockets on any side markers. In two-filament bulbs, one is lit continuously and
the other is lit momentarily (e.g. when the brakes are applied or the turn
signals/emergency flashers are activated). The side markers are either on or
off, nothing more.

So, two-filament side markers are all you will need but do this same mod to the
back, too.
Will do, YOU ARE SO CORRECT!!! You really know your stuff doud!!!

I should have joined this forum back when I got this "BLUE HEAP"!!!

I'll just try it the way you wrote in your last reply, I think I mentioned in my last post that I used wire splicers, but everything started turning on at the same time Ambulance effects...

I looked around today for the 3 wire sockets even at the Ford DEALERS but no luck I'm realy having a bitch of a time trying to find this socket not to mention the 2 filament 194 bulbs, I don't think they even make that...between that & the hessitation/surging problem of the engine...I'm GOING NUTS... I sent the "Muleguitar" a message to find out what type of car he did the light mod to so I'm still waiting for a response...

I will take your GREAT advice from your last post & try to hook it up like that...

If I can't than I will end up connecting the side marker socket to the turn signal & loose the use of the parking light!!!

Thanks so much for your reply!!!
 
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