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Ditto on the ride quality. If you want a comfy ride they arent for you but they will give you much more ride control.
I wasn't overly impressed with shock warehouse. They told me my 5100's were in stock in their florida facility when i ordered them. While after 2 weeks of waiting i called and they told me they would look into it and would call me back, No call and three days later i called again and was informed they had to come out of the california facility and were back ordered. Three weeks later i got my shocks, All the calls i placed i talked to the same two people on several occasions giving me the impression they were a small facility unable to handle extensive orders. I also asked about the FTE discount with the comment that they new nothing about it. I know a lot of people have had good luck with them and there is always a small percentage of errors which i guess i got.
I priced around and they had the best price, that is why I went with them. I guess you just had some bad luck, I have heard nothing but good things about them.
Ok, so I am getting ready to place an order the Bilstein HD's for my truck. Any last words of wisdom or advice about an alternate shock? I have heard great things about them, so I'm not worried. Are there any special tools I need to replace them in my garage, or do common hand tools suffice?
No special tools. You'll need some metric and some SAE. Installing shocks on these trucks is about as basic as it gets.
I only have one tip - when you get the new shocks, look at the end of the spear on the front shocks. Mine had a hex socket there, and it fit an allen wrench. A metric size IIRC. Using that to hold the spear while you turn the nut is helpful. Some people said their shocks didn't have the hex socket, so you will just have to look.
Second tip, kind of, is - don't cut the band around the shocks until you have one end loosely installed and are ready to put the bottom bolt in. Cut the band, the shock will slowly extend, and if you are quick you can align the hole and stick the bolt through it before it gets too long. No big deal if you miss it, just push the body up to compress the shock again.
Third tip (okay, I know I said only one) - spray some PB Blaster on the bottom bolt of the front shock the night before. That one has a tendency to be tight.
I guess I will chime in here...many on this site are bias to bilsteins(which are great shocks) But I personaly love edelbrock perfromer IAS shocks !! I have had them on multiple vehicles and think they improve the ride quality tremendously! Ya I know I drive a 1 ton truck and it still rides like a 1 ton , but with a much better feeling, , Just my $.02
Ok, so I am getting ready to place an order the Bilstein HD's for my truck. Any last words of wisdom or advice about an alternate shock? I have heard great things about them, so I'm not worried. Are there any special tools I need to replace them in my garage, or do common hand tools suffice?
Thanks!
If you have air tools or an impact wrench it makes the job a lot easier with the front ones that like to spin when you take them off.
I needed a 18mm to fit most nuts on my 04. Yours may be diffrent, being newer. Two of my socket sets didn't have one. New shocks realy make a differance, stiffer or not. Best wishes...
Thanks for all the input guys! I got them installed this weekend....the top of the front shocks was a bit of a pain but the rest was a breeze!
The new shocks fixed some of the steering "issues" I have been having, so now I am wanting to replace the steering stabilizer on it. Any suggestions on those? I notice Bilstein doesn't make stabilizers.
Thanks for all the input guys! I got them installed this weekend....the top of the front shocks was a bit of a pain but the rest was a breeze!
The new shocks fixed some of the steering "issues" I have been having, so now I am wanting to replace the steering stabilizer on it. Any suggestions on those? I notice Bilstein doesn't make stabilizers.
Thanks again for the help!
Hey nut1605, how much did you tighten the nut on the front shocks. I am headed out to the garage to do my fronts as well (already did the rear) but don't know have any idea how far down to tighten the nut on the rubber bushings. One of the other guys told me until the rubber bushing begins to expand out to the edge of the metal ring. Does this sound right? Also, did you put the rubber bushings on with the raised rim on the bottom bushing pointing up and the raised rim on the top bushing pointing down (basically the raised rims of each are touching the frame plate)? Thanks
Hey nut1605, how much did you tighten the nut on the front shocks. I am headed out to the garage to do my fronts as well (already did the rear) but don't know have any idea how far down to tighten the nut on the rubber bushings. One of the other guys told me until the rubber bushing begins to expand out to the edge of the metal ring. Does this sound right? Also, did you put the rubber bushings on with the raised rim on the bottom bushing pointing up and the raised rim on the top bushing pointing down (basically the raised rims of each are touching the frame plate)? Thanks
I want to say the shop service manual says around 30 ft. lbs. if you want to get exact, but I just "winged it" and tightened it to where the rubber bushing expands to the edge of the metal ring as the other guy told you. Seemed to feel pretty good to me.
Yes, I put the bushings on as you described here, bottom pointing up, top pointing down.
One of the other guys told me until the rubber bushing begins to expand out to the edge of the metal ring. Does this sound right?
This is what I did, and what I have always done on spear mount shocks. It's no where near 30 ft/lbs. They are lock nuts BTW, so they don't have to feel tight to retain position.
Originally Posted by theringworm
Also, did you put the rubber bushings on with the raised rim on the bottom bushing pointing up and the raised rim on the top bushing pointing down (basically the raised rims of each are touching the frame plate)? Thanks
The lips on the rubber bushings go toward each other, and should fit into the hole in the shock tower. The lips keep the bushings centered in the hole.
If you're upgrading your steering stablizer spend a few exta bucks and go with a dual steering stablizer. The stock s.s. sucks anyway. As Furian said, Bilstien makes a dual. And you can match up you shocks.
This is what I did, and what I have always done on spear mount shocks. It's no where near 30 ft/lbs. They are lock nuts BTW, so they don't have to feel tight to retain position.
The lips on the rubber bushings go toward each other, and should fit into the hole in the shock tower. The lips keep the bushings centered in the hole.
Finally got the fronts installed. I just tightened them down until the bushings bulged out almost even w/ the metal ring like previously mentioned. Definitely second the advice from the prior poster about cutting off the exposed threaded rod on the old shock, which is exactly what I didn't do. Wasted thirty minutes to an hour spinning quarter turns until the dang things were off.
Thanks for yalls input. Things went smooth for the most part. Great forum.
Finally got the fronts installed. I just tightened them down until the bushings bulged out almost even w/ the metal ring like previously mentioned. Definitely second the advice from the prior poster about cutting off the exposed threaded rod on the old shock, which is exactly what I didn't do. Wasted thirty minutes to an hour spinning quarter turns until the dang things were off.
Thanks for yalls input. Things went smooth for the most part. Great forum.
That's where the air tools come in handy, they help prevent that spinning crap. It's funny how little things like that can **** you off so much.
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