limited slip
Junior User
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 79
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From: Southside of Chicago
You have to find out if you have the 12 bolt 9.75 diff or 10 bolt 8.8 diff and then either buy the Ford Motorsports Limited Slip (cheapest) or an Auburn, an Eaton Posi, a Truetrac, or a Detroit Locker.
MMNC (SS)(Ret)
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 11,587
Likes: 141
From: SE Georgia
easiest way is to buy one from a junkyard IMO
but if you are going to install one, get a Tru-Trac. Ford makes some good stuff, but you can get better aftermarket. And while you are in there, might as well regear the truck. Basically only cost you the $$$ for the gears themselves
but if you are going to install one, get a Tru-Trac. Ford makes some good stuff, but you can get better aftermarket. And while you are in there, might as well regear the truck. Basically only cost you the $$$ for the gears themselves
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 123
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From: Chandler
From what I've seen the front diff (4x4) is the only one that has an e-locker available. In the rear you gotta do the truetrac or posi or locker.
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New User
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 9
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I just changed my 2006 xlt 4x4 with the eaton truetrac on both axles before xmas. Before changing the differentials I would spin 1 tire backing up my steep driveway when it was wet, I would have to put it in 4wd just to get up my wet driveway. Big difference in 2wd and 4wd now, no more slipping in 2wd on the wet driveway. I just upgraded my tires this week to Goodyear Wrangler Silent Armors, now I feel confident going anywhere with it. 
The back axle is pretty easy and took about 4-5 hours including cleaning and painting the rusty cover.
The front is more of a pain because you have to remove the axle from the truck to work on it. You will need a helper, a good impact wrench, 12mm 12pt impact socket for the driveshaft bolts, other impact sockets and a impact swivel. A transmission jack would be handy but I just used my floor jack. There just isn't enough room to remove the cover and differential on the front axle without removing it. The book calls for removing the half shafts but I was able to front axle without removing them.
The back axle is pretty easy and took about 4-5 hours including cleaning and painting the rusty cover.
The front is more of a pain because you have to remove the axle from the truck to work on it. You will need a helper, a good impact wrench, 12mm 12pt impact socket for the driveshaft bolts, other impact sockets and a impact swivel. A transmission jack would be handy but I just used my floor jack. There just isn't enough room to remove the cover and differential on the front axle without removing it. The book calls for removing the half shafts but I was able to front axle without removing them.
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 132
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I just changed my 2006 xlt 4x4 with the eaton truetrac on both axles before xmas. Before changing the differentials I would spin 1 tire backing up my steep driveway when it was wet, I would have to put it in 4wd just to get up my wet driveway. Big difference in 2wd and 4wd now, no more slipping in 2wd on the wet driveway. I just upgraded my tires this week to Goodyear Wrangler Silent Armors, now I feel confident going anywhere with it.
The back axle is pretty easy and took about 4-5 hours including cleaning and painting the rusty cover.
The front is more of a pain because you have to remove the axle from the truck to work on it. You will need a helper, a good impact wrench, 12mm 12pt impact socket for the driveshaft bolts, other impact sockets and a impact swivel. A transmission jack would be handy but I just used my floor jack. There just isn't enough room to remove the cover and differential on the front axle without removing it. The book calls for removing the half shafts but I was able to front axle without removing them.
The back axle is pretty easy and took about 4-5 hours including cleaning and painting the rusty cover.
The front is more of a pain because you have to remove the axle from the truck to work on it. You will need a helper, a good impact wrench, 12mm 12pt impact socket for the driveshaft bolts, other impact sockets and a impact swivel. A transmission jack would be handy but I just used my floor jack. There just isn't enough room to remove the cover and differential on the front axle without removing it. The book calls for removing the half shafts but I was able to front axle without removing them.
New User
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 9
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I'll have to reply here because I can't find a link to PM in this forum, and it is relevent to this thread.
The only thing I noticed was with the old tires Michelin LTX AT2 50% tread front, 75% tread rear on hardpack snow base and slushy snow on top it would tend to side slip up a steep incline. On normal driving you really don't notice the truetrac in the front. It's just like the back, it only works when it's needed.
I have not run into that same situation since and the Michelins were doing pretty good after that on other snow pack and sub freezing weather up until I replaced them this week with the silent armors.
The GY silent armors are doing great the recent 6" snow on top of old snow pack. They really grab and are 100% better then the Michelins I had on.
The GY silent armors also have a warranty if you get stuck they will winch you out for free on or off road. http://www.goodyeartires.com/warranty/wranglerUtilityPackage/
As far as noise they are pretty quite, I don't notice any road noise on the highway. I only have about 100 miles on them now so I can't say if they get louder as they age. But so far I am very pleased with them.
I have had a Truetrac in my rear diff for over a year and love it. I was thinking of putting one in the front but was concerned about the road manners on paved surfaces. Is there any change in steering effort or tendency to plow or understeer? Can you even detect that it is there?
Believe it or not, I am also considering the Silent Armors and wanted some feedback on those too. I have heard the Silent Armors are good in snow and are quiet on the highway. I value both of these characteristics. Any feedback you can offer will be appreciated
HYPO
Believe it or not, I am also considering the Silent Armors and wanted some feedback on those too. I have heard the Silent Armors are good in snow and are quiet on the highway. I value both of these characteristics. Any feedback you can offer will be appreciated
HYPO
The only thing I noticed was with the old tires Michelin LTX AT2 50% tread front, 75% tread rear on hardpack snow base and slushy snow on top it would tend to side slip up a steep incline. On normal driving you really don't notice the truetrac in the front. It's just like the back, it only works when it's needed.
I have not run into that same situation since and the Michelins were doing pretty good after that on other snow pack and sub freezing weather up until I replaced them this week with the silent armors.
The GY silent armors are doing great the recent 6" snow on top of old snow pack. They really grab and are 100% better then the Michelins I had on.
The GY silent armors also have a warranty if you get stuck they will winch you out for free on or off road. http://www.goodyeartires.com/warranty/wranglerUtilityPackage/
As far as noise they are pretty quite, I don't notice any road noise on the highway. I only have about 100 miles on them now so I can't say if they get louder as they age. But so far I am very pleased with them.