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6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

Help please, Excursion 6.0 just died

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Old Sep 6, 2009 | 04:47 PM
  #16  
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Thanks. I will also continue to look for wire chafing or a dirty connector. Since I cannot yet get to the connector, I can't really tell if it might just be dirty. I do keep my engine rather on the clean side, which could either mean that the connector is unlikely to be dirty, or that I have gotten it dirty or corroded by washing my engine too often. Also, I will try to note what procedure(s) I use to help those in the future. I also am getting my hands on a ford repair manual which has instructions. Last night, in the dark, with a good flashlight, I couldn't even find the sucker. Today, with same flashlight, in the light, and with more sleep and a repair manual, I am not convinced that it will be that bad. I'll post here as I make some progress. It might not be till next weekend though. Thanks again folks!
 
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Old Sep 7, 2009 | 12:11 AM
  #17  
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Thanks to Matt (Matty169) and 2003 Excursion for pointing out the wrong diagram of the CKP that I posted earlier. It has been deleted from my album. The proper diagrams are now in the album at the links below:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/a...ictureid=15905

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/a...ictureid=15906
 
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Old Sep 13, 2009 | 04:23 PM
  #18  
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OK ... help again! I changed the CKP sensor last night, and it wouldn't start. Got it started the morning, but it was difficult to start, and shuddering pretty bad. I'd hesitate at this point to drive it around the block. It does not seem to be throwing any codes. I am continuing to look for wire chafing, etc., but have not found anything yet. Anyone have any ideas? BTW, changing the CKP was not that bad, and I will try to write up my procedure later, but basically I followed the repair manual page that bismic posted in his last entry here. Thanks! Oh yea, and ...
 
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Old Sep 13, 2009 | 05:07 PM
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Mike - I like to verify the electrical system as a first step to PRACTICALLY everything. It may not turn up anything, but load check your batteries. A lot of times someone has hard start problems, they fix the problem only to find that all that cranking killed their batteries.

Were you ever able to reach the ICP harness? If so, what did it look like? if not, that would be a good place to go next.
 
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Old Sep 13, 2009 | 05:15 PM
  #20  
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Mark, by load check the batteries, do you mean check voltage of the batteries while it is being turned over? It could be the batteries! They seem good, and under non cranking conditions they check fine, but I have seen some of your prior posts on this subject and I have been wondering about it. What have your previously said, 11.4 volts or greater, even when cranking??? Also, as for the ICP sensor, no, but I am working my way back to it. I have the air cleaner off and assorted ducting, as I was looking for wire chafing in common areas.
 
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Old Sep 13, 2009 | 05:56 PM
  #21  
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Cranking voltage is one check you can do but it is not very accurate at identifying a bad battery. By load check I mean with a "load tester". It is basically a device with a specific resistor so that the battery is discharging quite a few amps while the device monitors voltage. It really is handy for troubleshooting your charging system (that and a clamp on ammeter)!

I personally think that getting to the ICP from underneath is the better way to go, but it is probably personal preference. So ... look over both threads in the Tech Folder and see what you think.

Sorry you are having troubles, but hang in there. You will resolve the issue, but these trucks just want you to make you work at it before they give up!
 
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Old Sep 13, 2009 | 09:35 PM
  #22  
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Well Mark, your last statement is perhaps the truest of all. I am starting to think batteries. but I am probably a ways from knowing for sure. I need to buy a good load tester, and also a code reader. Any recommendations on either one?? If it makes it any clearer, I'd rather spend money that I don't have on a good one, than buy a cheap one and regret it forever, or replace it later. I did check the voltage of both batteries while cranking, and though they were at over 12.5 volts initially, they drew down to 10.0 and 10.4 while cranking. This along with the fact that the engine started this morning after being on a charger all night makes me suspicious (not that it ran well or started easily, but it started, which is more than I can say since). The numerous posts you've made about insufficient battery voltage to run the engine electronics even while it seems to crank normally are starting to make some sense to me. As far as the ICP sensor is concerned, I will believe it actually has one and you are not all just pulling my leg when I can actually touch it or see it. Seriously, and I am going to do some more reading on it tonight, I know exactly where it is, and what angle it is at, but I can neither conceive of a way to see it or touch it. Heck, I've even tried finding it with a mirror. I'm thinking about pulling the turbo-charger just to see the darn thing. At least there would be victory in that. (just kidding ... I hope) I am going to try from the bottom as you suggest (again, after more reading) as the way 'most' do it always seems to work better. Besides, I have found that laying under the excursion on an old down sleeping bag while I work is actually remarkably comfortable. Seriously, try it next time ... it's the most comfortable I've ever been under a car!
 
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Old Sep 13, 2009 | 09:51 PM
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Crank sensor

My sensor went and acted like a HPOP issue. It would lose power when coming off idle, hard to start when hot but sounded like it wanted to start and wouldn't. Finally, one day I went to a storeI & when I came out, it wouldn't start. I waited an hour or so for it to cool and still no go so I had it towed home. I Read the codes and and got the same code you did so I ordered one. I found the Ford dealer in the link below to have the best prices at the time. ~ $22 plus shipping. You probably won't want to wait for shipping though if that is your daily driver.

Good luck with it.


http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...layCatalogid=0
 
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Old Sep 13, 2009 | 10:01 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by 2003 EXCURSION
OK ... help again! I changed the CKP sensor last night, and it wouldn't start. Got it started the morning, but it was difficult to start, and shuddering pretty bad. I'd hesitate at this point to drive it around the block. It does not seem to be throwing any codes. I am continuing to look for wire chafing, etc., but have not found anything yet. Anyone have any ideas? BTW, changing the CKP was not that bad, and I will try to write up my procedure later, but basically I followed the repair manual page that bismic posted in his last entry here. Thanks! Oh yea, and ...

Disregard my earlier post as I didn't turn the page... I also couldn't get my truck started after I changed the CKP and I thought I still had an HPOP issue. So I disconnected the ICP so the computer would use the assumed pressure. The truck started right up so I let it run for a few minutes. I shut it down and reconnected the ICP. It started right back up after that with no issues.

On other note and that is my mileage was also going down for just over a week before my truck died.

G/L
 
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Old Sep 13, 2009 | 10:06 PM
  #25  
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2003 Excursion -

Yeah - those voltages are too low IMO. I use a SPX OTC 3181 (130 A) for a load tester.

http://www.otctools.com/products/electronic_diagnostics

As far as scanners go, the AutoEnginuity is the best for the bucks.

p.s. - I guess I am somewhat of a broken record on batteries and voltages. Sorry for being so obsessed, but it can be the source of bigger issues!
 
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Old Sep 13, 2009 | 10:14 PM
  #26  
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Thanks bismic and GotPSDTorque. Well, I guess I need to go find the ICP, then possibly replace the batteries. Thank you both for the help, I really appreciate it. Why isn't this ever something easy, like just remove the dipstick before you start it?
 
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Old Sep 14, 2009 | 07:14 AM
  #27  
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It's probably a LOT less work to remove the FICM than the turbo to get to the ICP sensor, although the clips can be a pain to get to. You can follow the harness down the top of the drivers side valve cover (not the injector harness, it's there too) to find the ICP and IPR. It's wrapped with a foil connector that's got a button snap on it and 3 wires.
 
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Old Sep 14, 2009 | 10:05 AM
  #28  
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p2617

My 6.0 diesel died yesterday,,, I got p 2617 & p2614 on my code reader. I had it towed to my mech this morning I will let you know when I get it back
 
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Old Sep 15, 2009 | 09:38 PM
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OK. I may be way off base here, but...my 03 had exactly the same symptoms as you describe, but at 155,000 miles. Turned out to be the HPOP (High Pressure Oil Pump). Hope it is not this for your sake...very expensive.
 
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Old Sep 18, 2009 | 08:21 PM
  #30  
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OK! I have removed the shield from underneath, found the ICP sensor, and disconnected it. Neither the ICP connector nor the ICP sensor had any oil on them at all. I started it, which was very difficult, and came after cranking it over for a minute or two. It would barely stay running if I kept my foot on the gas, and didn't get any better. After 2 or 3 minutes I couldn't keep it running, and I could not get it to start again. With the hood up I could hear a somewhat faint high pitch whine somewhere under the hood, not something that I have ever heard. I don't think I want to hear the next guess, but give it to me anyway.
 
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