93' Ranger problem
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93' Ranger problem
Hello,
I have a 93' Ranger 2.3L m/trans. The problem is that once in a wile, while I am driving, the engine will cut out and will not start until i turn the key all the way off then it will start like no problem. I put it on a code reader that i have and it comes up as a code 218 which is "no left side diagnostic signal" or something like that. I have replaced the starter, both coil packs, ICM, crankshaft position senser, positive bat. cable, and spark plug wires.(To which I replaced in a weeks time so it cost me about $600
) That was for a different problem which I fixed but now I have this problem. I cannot figure out what could cause this issue. It never did this before. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
I have a 93' Ranger 2.3L m/trans. The problem is that once in a wile, while I am driving, the engine will cut out and will not start until i turn the key all the way off then it will start like no problem. I put it on a code reader that i have and it comes up as a code 218 which is "no left side diagnostic signal" or something like that. I have replaced the starter, both coil packs, ICM, crankshaft position senser, positive bat. cable, and spark plug wires.(To which I replaced in a weeks time so it cost me about $600
) That was for a different problem which I fixed but now I have this problem. I cannot figure out what could cause this issue. It never did this before. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
Last edited by 93'ranger2wd; Sep 4, 2009 at 01:43 AM. Reason: extra code i pasted in there that i didn't see
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From: suburban atlanta
Check to see if the ignition switch is coming apart. It is located on the topside of the steering column, down a bit from the lock cylinder. It is connected by a rod to the key.
Sometimes they lose connection as they age. I have seen them start to come apart which causes the contacts to lose their connection. Symptom for that was that it would not stay running after starting. If you pushed the key a fraction of an inch towards 'start', it would stay running.
You might also take a look at the relays and the rollover cut off switch. The fuel pump relay is energized for a few seconds when the key goes from off to on. If the ECM lost the signal that the engine was running {from the ignition, I think}, it will shut off the fuel pump. There is a 'rollover switch' that cuts the fuel pump should the vehicle turn on its side or turn over. It is a ball bearing sitting in a cradle that can sometimes get corroded and lose power to the fuel pump. You push a button to re-seat the ball bearing. Ranger had them on the floorboard, under the heater up near the top of the carpet or floor mat.
tom
Sometimes they lose connection as they age. I have seen them start to come apart which causes the contacts to lose their connection. Symptom for that was that it would not stay running after starting. If you pushed the key a fraction of an inch towards 'start', it would stay running.
You might also take a look at the relays and the rollover cut off switch. The fuel pump relay is energized for a few seconds when the key goes from off to on. If the ECM lost the signal that the engine was running {from the ignition, I think}, it will shut off the fuel pump. There is a 'rollover switch' that cuts the fuel pump should the vehicle turn on its side or turn over. It is a ball bearing sitting in a cradle that can sometimes get corroded and lose power to the fuel pump. You push a button to re-seat the ball bearing. Ranger had them on the floorboard, under the heater up near the top of the carpet or floor mat.
tom
Last edited by tomw; Sep 4, 2009 at 08:50 AM. Reason: add
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code could be completely unrelated. I used to drive my 89 mustang around with about 5 active codes, it ran great, had lots of power and got good gas mileage... the check engine light was just on all the time
i'm scared to know how many codes i have on my 88 f-150, the check engine light has come on and off for the entire 2 years i have owned it
i'm scared to know how many codes i have on my 88 f-150, the check engine light has come on and off for the entire 2 years i have owned it
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Well, I replaced the ignition tumbler don't know if that will do the trick or not will wait and see but I don't think that's what it was. I needed a new one anyway the old one was sloping around.
weezl, does your f-150 run good when the engine light comes on. It MIGHT just be something simple like a o2 sensor starting to go maybe? Just a guess.
weezl, does your f-150 run good when the engine light comes on. It MIGHT just be something simple like a o2 sensor starting to go maybe? Just a guess.
Last edited by 93'ranger2wd; Sep 6, 2009 at 10:49 AM. Reason: extra word
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Yeah, both ran great! I don't think your ignition tumbler is the same piece the person above is talking about, the ignition switch is about the same size around as a quartr, and about 1/3 of an inch thick, usually plastic, should have about 3 or 4 wires sticking out if it
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Well, the problem didn't go away. Is there some kind of anti-theft system on it because there is a wire coming out of the lock cylinder that i do not know what it does. I had it off to see if the truck will start and it started. It did brake off when I took it out so, I put super glue on it and put it back in. Do not know if that has anything to do with it or not. The truck still cuts out randomly when I am driving and I still get a code 218. (I did erase the code the last time this happened to see if any new codes comes up but so far just the 218 code.)
I did check my ignition coil packs connections and they are where they should be. I do have a Haynes Manuel.
I did check my ignition coil packs connections and they are where they should be. I do have a Haynes Manuel.
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From: Eatonville ,Wa
im kinda having the same problem on my 94, i replaced the lock cylinder, but in order for my turn signals and heater to work a have to giggle the key forward, how do you replace the electrical part of it?(the part the cylinder goes into) does it just slide out the hole the cylinder goes in?
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samtye: what you describe sounds like a failing ignition switch. The electrical part. Mine was a rectangular box with a wire harness attached. It is connected by a rod to the lock cylinder. You would remove the steering column cover, and then you can see the switch a bit further down the collumn. If they get worn or start to come apart, you will find that the engine will quit running unless you hold the key a little bit towards the start position.
tom
tom
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So you mean that you think that the coil pack is defective? Because it is a new one.
Last edited by 93'ranger2wd; Oct 6, 2009 at 11:51 PM. Reason: add word
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Ok, now what it does is instead of the engine cutting out, it runs vary rough randomly not all the time just at random. I changed the fuel filter but it still does it and I still get a code 218 when it does it. Tomorrow I will put the old left coil pack back on and see if it make a difference. If this does not work I will take it to the ford dealership and have them look at it. Fingers crossed.
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93: "code 218 which is "no left side diagnostic signal" or something like that."
Well, is it a 'left side diagnostic signal' or not? If you expect people to take the time to answer with useful suggestions, you should take the time to write down the code description.
If it is the diagnostic signal missing, it could be the wiring, the module, or even missing mounting screws.
tom
Well, is it a 'left side diagnostic signal' or not? If you expect people to take the time to answer with useful suggestions, you should take the time to write down the code description.
If it is the diagnostic signal missing, it could be the wiring, the module, or even missing mounting screws.
tom
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According to my Ford Code Reader a code 218 is "Loss of Ignition Diagnostic Monitor (IDM) signal/left side." Why would having missing mounting screws make a difference? Is it because of grounding? I broke 3 of them trying to get the old one off. So, could that be the problem? I have one holding it on right now but it is rusted. Maybe I will get 4 new one anyway just to be sure. I already said that I replaced the IDM so I don't think that it is it. I did a wiggle test all along the wiring harness while the truck was running and I could not get it to cut out so, I don't think that it is the wiring.