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jays 74 supercab

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Old Sep 3, 2009 | 08:13 PM
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jays 74 supercab

Long time lurker first time poster. This is my second ford truck. My first one was a 1986 f150 with a inline 300 and a four speed. Still kicking myself for selling it. I picked this up about two weeks ago and I got it in a trade for a full car stereo system. It didn't run at the time and jst needed a new fuel pump. Replaced it and it runs great just need to do a tune up. Everything works great on this truck. The truck has a 1967 352 installed the works and sounds great. The tape on the steering wheel will be removed once i find another one.






I have two questions to ask though. I need to replace the temp sending unit but im not sure where it is. I think this is it but im not 100% sure.



Also im not sure what this is or how to use whatever it is. It's the box that has "KH" on it.



Thanks for looking and thanks for the help on these and future questions.

Justin
 
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Old Sep 3, 2009 | 08:24 PM
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What you have circled is a ported vacuum switch, the temp. sending unit is in the intake manifold. Mine is behind the distributor.
The box is the manual control for trailer brakes. KH stands for Kelsey-Hayes, the manufacturer,
 
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Old Oct 4, 2009 | 09:38 AM
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I degreased the engine bay this weekend and I let the truck idle for about half an hour since I had just replaced the fuel pump and didnt know the shape the engine was in. The truck had some coolant leak out at the radiator cap that was not even a 1/4 of a cup. I didn't know if it means i just need to replace the cap or if there could be an underlining problem. The temp guage does actually work a little but it only moved to the start line of hot and cold.

it's the circled line that the needle stops at.

 
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Old Oct 4, 2009 | 02:16 PM
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From: Rainy Washington
the temp sender should be underneath the coil on the manifold.
 
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Old Oct 4, 2009 | 02:25 PM
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From: Duncan B.C.
If it runs that cool after idling for 1/2 an hour, you may not have a thermostat installed, or it could be stuck open. Should run warmer than that,assuming the temp gauge is accurate. These stock gauges are questionable at best. It would be a good idea to install a decent after market temp gauge.
 
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Old Oct 4, 2009 | 09:48 PM
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I guess i'll pick up a temp gauge then. Would I need to replace the radiator cap since a little coolant leaked out from it or could it be the sign of something else failing.
 
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Old Oct 4, 2009 | 09:58 PM
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From: Duncan B.C.
Did you fill the rad right to the top? These trucks like to run with the coolant level about an inch or so down, so it may be just finding its own level. Monitor the level and if it keeps going down, a new cap may be in order.
 
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Old Oct 4, 2009 | 10:29 PM
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i didnt add any coolant but ut was full. I'll keep an eye on the level then.
 
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Old Oct 5, 2009 | 06:00 PM
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These trucks don't have a coolant recovery system so if the radiator is full cold, when the coolant gets hot, it expands and runs out the overflow. When it cools down and contracts air is sucked in to replace the coolant that ran out. The next time it warms up the coolant will expand again but this time it takes up the air space that was created from the last time.
 
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Old Feb 26, 2010 | 08:43 AM
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Started working of the truck again but now it wont start. Gets spark and fuel to the carb to a point. I can put gas in the carb and it starts for a second or two and then dies. I know it's something with the carb. Im not sure how old it is and was debating rebuilding it but this is my first carb'd vehicle and I found this remand carb and figured it would be a better buy for the time been but didn't know if it would be worth buying or now.

Carburetor - Remanufactured by United Carb - Part 7-7262 - Advance Auto Parts___


Any feedback on this would be helpful. THanks.
 
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Old Mar 1, 2010 | 05:57 AM
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I have searched for weeks and looked through every carb book i could find at the book store but cannot find any good detailed instructions on hooking up a carb. The carb installed now on my 352 has some of the hoses plugged and I'm picking up a new one and want to make sure it gets hooked up correctly. Does anybody know a good book or website to look at?
 
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Old Mar 21, 2011 | 09:22 PM
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Long time on the update. The misses had some medical bills pop up so we had to get those taken care of first. Just started working on the truck again and ran into a roadblock. The truck has a new battery and a new starter solinoid but will not start. The lights will come on and stay on until I try to crank it. It will click once then the lights go out and nothing. I even took the battery out of my bimmer to see if it was just a bad battery but the same thing happens. Any idea what could be the cause. I can't find a fuse panel to check fuses.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2011 | 08:33 AM
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Hello
Carb might be blocked with dirt. If it wasnt running when you got it, it probably dried out the carby. replacing the pump might have stirred up all the dirt as well. Tank could have been dirty as well.

Corey
 
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Old Mar 22, 2011 | 10:33 AM
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From: Ideeho
As for the no crank problem...........Clean the battery terminals and check to be sure all the cables are tight on both ends.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2011 | 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Xauterus
Hello
Carb might be blocked with dirt. If it wasnt running when you got it, it probably dried out the carby. replacing the pump might have stirred up all the dirt as well. Tank could have been dirty as well.

Corey

Cleaned up the carb this winter. I'll look at the cable ends this weekend.
 
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