Opinion Needed: Body Work help
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Opinion Needed: Body Work help
So I have a question for you all. The previous owner of my truck did some bad patching/welding on the hood.
Basically the hood rotted on top of the drip rail and the previous owner tack welded a new plate in, and did a bad job. to make up for it they put about 1/2 inch or more of bondo to create a new roof line. I guess I have to cut all that out and start a new?
What would you do? Would you cut it all out and start a new? what levels are ok for body filler? I am prett sure that it was surpased last time.
Thanks,
Ben
Basically the hood rotted on top of the drip rail and the previous owner tack welded a new plate in, and did a bad job. to make up for it they put about 1/2 inch or more of bondo to create a new roof line. I guess I have to cut all that out and start a new?
What would you do? Would you cut it all out and start a new? what levels are ok for body filler? I am prett sure that it was surpased last time.
Thanks,
Ben
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Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Kansas City area
Ben, IMHO that area is one of the toughest to repair correctly. You will probably need to remove the drip rail, cut out the bad areas, make new patch pieces and weld them in and then re-install the drip rail. As far as the bondo I like to use the least amount possible. I think a 1/2" is way too much and will eventually crack and deteriorate.
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2008
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You don't want a lot of filler on the hood, with each slam of it you get closer and closer to it starting to crack.
To be honest, if its that much work you might look into finding a new hood. Granite thats easy for me to say cause I don't have to pay for it but think of it this way; how much is your time and effort worth, if you had to pay someone to fix the hood would that be more than a "new" hood? You could probably find a decent hood for about $100 with a little shopping, then you'd never have to worry about the filler cracking or go through the joys of having to get the ridge right.
Edit: Your pictures show a one piece friberglass front clip, is that what you're trying to fix, cause thats makes a BIG difference than if it's a steel hood. That you could fix with more fiberglass...
To be honest, if its that much work you might look into finding a new hood. Granite thats easy for me to say cause I don't have to pay for it but think of it this way; how much is your time and effort worth, if you had to pay someone to fix the hood would that be more than a "new" hood? You could probably find a decent hood for about $100 with a little shopping, then you'd never have to worry about the filler cracking or go through the joys of having to get the ridge right.
Edit: Your pictures show a one piece friberglass front clip, is that what you're trying to fix, cause thats makes a BIG difference than if it's a steel hood. That you could fix with more fiberglass...
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Apr 2008
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From: Moore (or less), OK.
It is a little confusing. He mentions the drip rail, the hood and 1/2 inch of bondo to rebuild the roofline.
Not sure what part of the truck he is working on but I am leaning towards the roof of the cab also. If that's the case it will be a tough repair.
Not sure what part of the truck he is working on but I am leaning towards the roof of the cab also. If that's the case it will be a tough repair.
Junior User
Joined: Aug 2009
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From: North Miss.
I'm gonna guess the roof also..like Havi said,you dont want any more then a 1/16'' to 1/4"at most..Prob, be better off finding a donor skin..
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From: Westminster,Md
Might be a good time to give thought to "removing" the drip rail all together..should make the repair easier as the roof,drip-rail and the upper windsheild support are all sandwiched together..a few folks on this site have removed the drip-rail..it gives the cab a different look...custom like. Some like it,some don't..if going for the all original look though...your in for alot of work..which requires alot of patience...Good Luck with your choice!
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I have already replaced both back cab corners and the front passenger area as well as door jams. I am getting decent at welding panels in. I just haven't formed my own yet, which I am going to have to do for a 1-2 inch strip for a decent amount of the cab roof.
It sucks too, because you cant get to it from inside the cab because of the metal interior section. I guess this is why the Previous owner did such a bad job.
Ben
Cargo Master
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If you post some pictures of it someone might have a brilliant idea of how to fix it the easiest.
As far as forming it goes, I guess it depends on where it is, but there are a lot of ways to do this that could save you hours and hours of work. Plus its great fun, thats why I'm a smith, lol ^_^
As far as forming it goes, I guess it depends on where it is, but there are a lot of ways to do this that could save you hours and hours of work. Plus its great fun, thats why I'm a smith, lol ^_^
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It turns out the whole thing was bondo. They didnt patch anything and it is basically all rotted out. I am going to cut it all out section by section doing about a foot at a time, to try and keep the cabs shape as best I can.
I think I am going to keep the drip rail, i know it will be harder to get the patches in there, but I like the look, and it is still solid.
Ben
I think I am going to keep the drip rail, i know it will be harder to get the patches in there, but I like the look, and it is still solid.
Ben
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2008
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You might be able to make a strip of metal in a half circle shape (or whatever) to fit down in there then weld it to the roof and rail. I think trying to butt weld everything might prove to be far more of a pain than what it's worth. course if you use small strips like that you might be able to cut it all pretty evenly too...